Hi

Who has a lightened flywheel?
Do you guys like the performance?
Did the car become less streetable?
Which brands did you choose?
Any recommendation on weight?
Did anyone have bad experiences with the chadder?
Installation tips?

I know there is Findanza, ACT makes streetlite and prolite, but from my understanding they do not have a model that works with the NA motors, the outer teeth do not line up properly??

Has anyone tried mazdatrix flywheels? They seem to have quite a couple?

Worthwhile modification? Any regrets?

 

I do.

I absolutely love the performance. Seriously, like it is awesome. Makes everything better from accelerating to shifting.

No car is not less streetable in anyway.

I have the racing beat lightweight flywheel. Not sure if it is the aluminum or steel.

They say the lighter you go the less streetable it becomes... so screw it get the lightest you can.

I do have slight chatter myself yes, but who cares?

*****.

Don't get any crappy EBAY part that's all I can say when it comes to flywheels. Racingbeat makes awesome flywheels I would consult them.

Is it worthwhile? Well, at the 3rd of the cost of a TII swap, probably not haha.... but if you are going for the whole shibang and money is not an issue, than yeah get a light flywheel... you will love it.

 

The first question is....

What are you trying to achieve with a lightened flywheel? The engine will spin up faster but also lose inertia faster when shifting. There is no horsepower increase, at least at a noticeable level. Your money may very well be spent elsewhere.

 

i use the ACT prolite flywheel and my car is daily driven. no downsides as far as i cant tell.

 

In response to what you said about "no horsepower increase", it is true and it also isn't, the engine will not gain anymore horsepower but his drivetrain loss will be less, so in turn he will be gaining more rwhp, and isn't that whats important?

 

Engine spins easier, more power thru the drivetrain to the wheels.
i had a RB 12lb http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm and act strip and street clutch with a corksport ss line. Talk about a stiff peddle with quick clutch engagement. LOL my left leg was buffer than my right by the end of the day. LOVED IT!

 

I've got an ACt Heavy Duty PP and 6 puck sprung disc, with an ACT 12lb Flywheel.

It's more sensitive than stock, and you have to rev a little higher to get going. Pedal feel is just a bit stiffer; my Jeep's stock clutch is still stiffer by a long shot, I hate driving it in traffic.

 

I've got a Racing Beat Aluminum flywheel and love it. It's much more rev-happy than the stocker.

If you are able to find a used one, go for it, but make sure they have the bolts/spacers for it. Don't forget about the rear counterweight.

 

I just installed a 9.5lb SR Motorsports flywheel and was surprised at how easy it is to drive. No loss of streetability at all. I'm very happy with it. I think it suits the engine nicely.

 

I have a Racing Beat 17lb steel flywheel. Same results as everyone else, more fun, just as easy to drive.

 

I have the ACT prolite (9 lbs) and like it a lot. It's plenty streetable.

I also installed an ACT xtreme PP with a modified disc as the same time and the combination of those 2 make it a little tricky sometimes, but you get used to it pretty fast.

If you're changing your clutch or something I would definitely do it, but I probably wouldn't do it until then just because the transmission is a pain to take off.

I got the ACT one because it's chromoly and not aluminum. I've heard bad stories of aluminum flywheels separating from their steel parts because they expand and contract and different rates.

 

what do you guys think about using a ightweight flywheel in an autocross car?i understand that it'll drop rpm a little quicker while shifting but at the same time it'll rev back up way faster and get you into the power band quicker,right?i have been in some heated discussions about this lately and need advice from some rotary gurus since everyone i know that has droped some bank into their rides drive nissans (Z's or silvias) and don't know anyone localy with 7's.advice would be great.i love the idea of reving up quicker but am building for autocross and eventualy road racing.

 

it's autocross... how often are you even getting out of 2nd gear?

 

i think the RB 17lb flywheel is about what they should have had stock!

 

If you ever plan on drag racing, stick to the stocker.

B

 

it will rev quicker and gain quicker for a n/a
on a turbo car, it will take longer to get boost back at the same level with a lighten flywheel at the same rpm vs a stock flywheel.

Normally, that is one reason why having a lighten flywheel on a turbo car is pretty frowned upon if you are in autocross. Everytime you lift off, boost will build slower.

 

OS Giken double disk,flywheel,billet clutch cover,slave cilinder and a corksport line,the perfect combo!Pedal is not that stiff at all,it engages super easy and fast and weights around 17 pounds.

 

So true, The only time i'm out of second gear in my Nissan is when I start off. lol. I had a light weight in my s13, world of difference, So i'd imagine in the 7 it would be just as good. My advice though ( Depending on your driving style) If you replace clutchs often, to get a FW with a replaceable contact surface. Aluminum FW's are useless after a clutch goes out because the surface is worn to that clutch. ( Once again, just from my own expereinces, not to be taken as fact unless others have had that same issue) So i'd say do it, as for brand I can't say, I haven't done any research, gotta get the car running first. lol.

 

exedy flywheel (T2 trans)
well i have to accelerate a bit more on takeoff
the car shakes a tiny bit more but still streetable
better reaction and accel
depending on the application i wouldnt recommend going super lightweight
mine weighs about 11 -12 pounds i do alot of grip racing so i didnt want to go any lighter
considering i have an n/a
and i was thinking of going turbo at the time (still thinking about it though)

 

Lightened flywheel is excellent for autocross, precisely because you want *responsiveness*. In autocross you are always changing direction and throttle inputs, and lightening the drivetrain adds up to quicker acceleration for those brief spurts when you can roll hard on the gas. I don't have a lightened flywheel, but the improvement in responsiveness with using my BBS rims and r-comps is dramatic (10 lbs lighter per wheel, so 20lbs of rotating drivetrain mass shed compared to my street rims and tires, which aren't heavy by any means). A lighter flywheel has similar impact. I have driven other cars with lightened flywheels in autocross, before and after, and it makes a positive difference.

Less drivetrain inertia with a lighter flywheel should also be beneficial when you're off the gas too, since it should improve engine braking, meaning you'll use less brake and rely on engine braking more.

 

I am running a F.E.E.D 9.8LB flywheel. In my opinion compared to the stock flywheel, I don't see why people keep saying it's not "street-able". Better throttle response, less rotating inertia which means you regain lost "w.h.p." due to the heavier flywheel. I like it. If you know how to drive the car you won't have to ride the clutch so much like others will tell you.

But like everyone says, light flywheels are not for drag racing.

 

hmm.....everyone i talked to said lightened flywheels r only for drag racing.....but then again,i know people around here arent the smartest lol.right now im N/A of course but am torn between rebuilding with a large street port or rebuilding for boost.i know that about n/a 250rwhp would dominate in autocross but other times i just realy want to boost and get bout 350-400hp and run road racing,considering that road racing is my ultimate goal in the end.i enjoy nice grip runs and like to sling it out sometimes too.im not a highway racer or anything like that (though fun) im not into the street racing thing,i've decided to keep it on the track where it belongs.i love the sound and idea of a bridge port but all the research i've done says it's not streetable like a street port is.im a part time manager and delievery driver at hungry howies pizza and subs and the 7 is my daily/track project.so the car must be streetable.when i buy the flywheel,i know it comes with the front counter weight,which means i gotta pull the front rotar cover to swap it out,but what about the rear counter weight (which i thought the flywheel itself did that job but after searching i learned otherwise i think) is the rear weight inside the housing or outside?

 

Aluminum Racing Beat flywheel on my n/a was my favorite mod. It made the car crazy fun to drive, and no harder to drive after about a day of getting used to it.

 

You don't touch the front counterweight. You will add a rear counterweight from an automatic 13b from the same series as your engine.

 

will it come with the new flywheel?i found kits online that also came with a front wounterweight.how does allowing the engine to rev quicker slow down boost?