Ok. Im gonna wait til my dad gets home to help me with this step. I need 2 people anyway.

Is there a way to test the leads to the injectors rather than checking to see if they spit fuel?

 

You can check the voltages, but they bounce all over the place .. and that only tells you the injector wire is getting the signal, not if the signal is turing into fuel on the other end. (I.E. clogged injector or somthing of the likes) But you still have to crank to get voltage.

 

any body needing help starting a rebuild, or any other engine, can feel free to contact me for help. I have been doing this for 4 years now, so I can figure out about any problem, even if it takes a few days of asking and suggesting.

hypntyz@charter.net anytime

423-748-7977 1pm-1am

ICQ(number below) or AIM (hypntyz) anytime

 

Well, if you pull it, let the clutch out SLOW... I let the engine come up, and I don't go over 2 rpms right away. Just watch your gauges. I get mad oil pressure with my rebuild

 

I betch-ya its the "re-chromed" rotor housings. They don't provide a flat enough surface for the apex seals to seal against. Thats my guess. CJ

 

rechromed housings? I didnt know there was any additional machining/coating that could be dont to a rotor housing once it was used?

 

I don't think thats the case. This compression on this thing sounds beautiful. It makes perfect pulses even and loud. I'm still stuck on the fact that only one rotor housing gets fuel as far as I can tell.