AreExSeven

For those who didn't see the other post, my engine is in and it cranks over, and gets spark. It will start for a second with starter fluid, and then die. I primed the fuel lines, and it is getting fuel. But when I pull the spark plugs out, gas comes out of the front rotor, but nothing comes out of the rear. I am almost certain the injectors are plugged in correctly, but I will confirm this when I get home and can pull it back apart.

Any ideas why it won't fire up with the 1 rotor, or why the back wouldn't be getting fuel?

Thanks for any help!

Piranha

Rebuilds have low compression until the seals seat, I'm having a similar problem, but all my plugs are soaked with gas. We had to pull start it to get mine going, and after that it ran. It fired up the second time too, fine, but after that it won't, so I'm probably going to pull again

AreExSeven

Is it safe to pull a rebuild though?

hawk 7

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I don't have any useful information but I am just wondering who did your rebuild and didn't they give you instructions on how to get it started??

AreExSeven

Well the instructions are obvious. Its the fact that I messed something up, and now I'm trying to figure out what that was.

mrb63083

iTrader: (4)

Did you do the rebuild yourself?

AreExSeven

nah, bought it from atkins.

hawk 7

iTrader: (2)

I would contact atkins, they have experience with this and they probably can help you if you did anything wrong. Selling engines they probably run into this a lot and it is probably something simple.

mrb63083

iTrader: (4)

Oh ok. Sorry i have no idea why it's not firing up. I was just curious if you did the rebuild. Good luck with it man.

hawk 7

iTrader: (2)

Read the thread he bought it from atkins.

jmseven

You will need to chk to see if you are getting a signal to the rear injectors (use an ohm meter). Also, did you get the injectors cleaned before you installed them???? That might be the factor.

Nick86

iTrader: (1)

I bet your last engine had a blown rear rotor right? Chances are that this fuel starvation was happening to your last engine as well, and was the cause of it's demise. The real problem, I think, is with the parts that didn't get replaced, not the actual rebuilt engine. Check your injectors and fuel system, especially around the rear rotor. Since the front injector is getting gas, you'll have to look at the rear injectors, and the fuel rail after the front injectors.
Just a thought...

This is of course if all the connectors and wiring harnass is connected properly.

AreExSeven

The engine did not blow on the rear rotor. In fact the rear rotor was perfect.

Im home now, and I'm about to go pull it apart to check the wiring to the injectors.
I did not have them professionally cleaned, but they worked perfect before, so I would assume they would still work. However, if nothing happens I may get them cleaned, or I may just get some 720's

AreExSeven

Do I just put attach it to the plug and crank the engine to test for power? Will it be ok even with the UIM off to get to the cables?

Rpeck

If they are high impedance injectors disconnect the cable and test continuity on them .. they should be 12-16 ohms. If that looks good .. hold the injectors in the stock rail, jumper the fuel pump and make sure they hold fuel for at least 2 mins. then check for spary ... be carefull though .. fuel is scarry ****.

AreExSeven

And how do I know if they are high impedance? They are the stock injectors.

And do I just need the car in "on" position, or do I need to crank it to check for continuity?

Sorry, but electronics is definitally not my strong point

Rpeck

Depends on your cars "born date" what injectors it has. What color are they.. red=high imp. other color is prolly low imp. I think other color is yellow, but im not sure.

AreExSeven

They the red ones.

So put the MM in the plug and turn car to on position?

Rpeck

You can test the injectors them selfves without power, and not connected. Thats JUST the injector test though .. fromt here step B and C to test signal and such

AreExSeven

I thought I was testing the injector wires, not the injector.

Im so lost. I suck at electronics.

Can you gimme a lillte step by step here, if you got time

Rpeck

Sorry I cant right now. I am at work until 5. After work i can help ya out. Unless someone else can write somthing up sooner.

AreExSeven

Ok, no prob.

Im just totally lost on electronics. Resistance, continuity, etc mean nothing to me.

I have a digital multi meter though Thats all I know

AreExSeven

Ok, my stupid *** figured it out.

I have about 14.5 Ohms resitance on all of my injectors. Anyone know where to go from here?

AreExSeven

Ok, moving right along on my own.

By holding fuel I assume you mean there are no leaks right? Well, I jumpered the fuel pump, and let it run for 2 mins or so. I got no leaks. Im hoping thats what you mean
If it is not, please correct me!

Now check for spray? I assume I pull the rails and leave the injectors in them and make sure it is spitting out fuel right? I do this with the car cranking?

Rpeck

Okay, resistance is fine. No leaks is great. Now part 3. I have NEVER done this, but I have heard of others doing it. But yes hold the injectors in the rail & fire the car over and look for a godo spary. I would get a towel or something and a fire extinguisher handy. Its not the brightest thing in the world to do with live fuel .. but it will tell you if your getting fuel injection. DO NOT touch the end of the injectors I have heard of deisel fuel injectors being touched when charged and actuklly injecting fuel in a person that way. So do this step at your own risk, it might be safer to do it with the injectors in place .. and spry it through the plug holes. But up to you .. if your very carefull about spark (I.E unply spark plug wires) then it should be okay to try.