Rebuilt Engine not starting!
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Rebuilt Engine not starting!
Ok, so im getting spark, i have 60 front and 60 rear compression. I dont' know if im getting any fuel though. It cranks over fine. All my gaugues aren't working so i can't tell ****. I tried taking the spark plugs out and crankin the engine but i don't see any fuel comeing out. How do you manually check to see if your getting fuel?
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seeing that your gauges dont work, i had the EXACT same problem....
look at the fuse block in the engine bay, driver side strut tower. Now look about 6 inches down, theres a black connector thats unplugged -- it need to be connected.
look at the fuse block in the engine bay, driver side strut tower. Now look about 6 inches down, theres a black connector thats unplugged -- it need to be connected.
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ok i see what your talking about, but i dont see the cable. Its the 3rd from the last. The fuse box is blank for that one, a square with an diagonal line through it. Is that where the connecter is suppose to go? If so then i need to know where it comes from cause its no where to be found. So i might have to make the wire myself.
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A new engine *can* be hard to start sometimes. I haven't had any problems myself though following what I always do.
First double check all connections, pull out the EGI fuse and spark plugs and crank a few seconds to get the oil pressure up. Install a jumper to the fuel pump to get fuel pressure up. It should start right up.
If you have tried a few times and the motor just turns over, you may have flooded it and sometimes a severely flooded engine will not start with the fuel cut off switch. If you know you have spark and fuel, it could just be flooded. A rebuild will have low compression so it being flooded will be even more diificult.
Try squirting some ATF or motor oil (about a capful in each housing) into the leading (larger hole).
First double check all connections, pull out the EGI fuse and spark plugs and crank a few seconds to get the oil pressure up. Install a jumper to the fuel pump to get fuel pressure up. It should start right up.
If you have tried a few times and the motor just turns over, you may have flooded it and sometimes a severely flooded engine will not start with the fuel cut off switch. If you know you have spark and fuel, it could just be flooded. A rebuild will have low compression so it being flooded will be even more diificult.
Try squirting some ATF or motor oil (about a capful in each housing) into the leading (larger hole).
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problem is i don't think im getting fuel. If its all cause if this one wire thats no where to be found then i need to know where it connects to and from.
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buy noid lights... plug one into the fuel injector connector, boom, now you know if youre getting power to the injector. After that, check the pump. If the pump is pumping, and the fuel injectors are pulsing, you have fuel. Chances are when you put in or took out the engine, you bent the wire harness and broke the power wire to your fuel injectors. Thats a common thing.
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If you've been cranking and not starting, a sure way to tell if you're getting fuel is to remove your spark-plugs and smell them. I thought that maybe I wasn't getting fuel when I first tried to start my fresh rebuild, I pulled my injectors and I was DEFINITELY getting fuel. If you do 'get' fuel, you are more than likely going to have to compression start your car to get it running. I have had to compression start mine EVERY time except once in the past week.
Note: park on a hill, lol.
Note: park on a hill, lol.
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Originally Posted by mmjb
ok i see what your talking about, but i dont see the cable. Its the 3rd from the last. The fuse box is blank for that one, a square with an diagonal line through it. Is that where the connecter is suppose to go? If so then i need to know where it comes from cause its no where to be found. So i might have to make the wire myself.
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ok, it doesnt go to the fuse box, the fuse box was just a reference point... nothing to do with it.
looking down on the fuse box, its 6 inches below the fuse box. There is a black connector that is most likely uplugged, it runs to the ignition switch wich in turn powers guages and the ecu.
its two black connectors, one male one female
looking down on the fuse box, its 6 inches below the fuse box. There is a black connector that is most likely uplugged, it runs to the ignition switch wich in turn powers guages and the ecu.
its two black connectors, one male one female
#10
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Your fuel lines might be connected backwards at the engine. The line from the fuel filter should go to the most forward pipe at the engine.
You have spark so you know the cas and the ECU are connected right and the fuel pump should also be runnning due to your having spark.
On a non turbo you should be able to loosen the banjo bolt on the secondary fuel rail without any other things being removed. Just crank the engine for a few seconds. That should pressurize the fuel rail. Now get out of the car and loosen the rear banjo bolt on the secondary fuel rail. It still has pressure so it should spray a bit of fuel.
You have spark so you know the cas and the ECU are connected right and the fuel pump should also be runnning due to your having spark.
On a non turbo you should be able to loosen the banjo bolt on the secondary fuel rail without any other things being removed. Just crank the engine for a few seconds. That should pressurize the fuel rail. Now get out of the car and loosen the rear banjo bolt on the secondary fuel rail. It still has pressure so it should spray a bit of fuel.
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Originally Posted by geargrabber
ok, it doesnt go to the fuse box, the fuse box was just a reference point... nothing to do with it.
looking down on the fuse box, its 6 inches below the fuse box. There is a black connector that is most likely uplugged, it runs to the ignition switch wich in turn powers guages and the ecu.
its two black connectors, one male one female
looking down on the fuse box, its 6 inches below the fuse box. There is a black connector that is most likely uplugged, it runs to the ignition switch wich in turn powers guages and the ecu.
its two black connectors, one male one female
#14
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Originally Posted by geargrabber
without that connection i mentioned being connected, no fuel will squirt into the manifold.
If the plugs are taken out, and you spin the engine for say ten to fifteen seconds and don't get a fuel mist out the plug holes, then I'd agree you are not getting the injectors to work OR the fuel pump is not pumping OR the fuel lines are crossed. If the lines are crossed, the injectors won't get fuel.
IF you jumper the FUEL PUMP CHECK CONNECTOR near the right front strut tower, you should hear the pump running. If that is so, then remove the RETURN line on the engine (rear hose of the two) and put a piece of extra fuel hose on it(from the engine side), and the end in a bucket/container. Jumper the FUEL PUMP CHECK CONNECTOR and turn the key to ON. Fuel should flow. If it does, the fuel lines are right. If it does not, then there is a blockage in the fuel rails/lines on the engine or no output from the fuel filter to the engine input pipe.
The cas determines if you get SPARK and if the injector INJECT. If you have one (spark), you should have the other. One follows the other unless you leave the electrical plugs off the injectors. Injectors don't just sit there and die all by themselves.
IF you go buy a can of STARTER FLUID, and spray that into the intake FILTER, for say, one to two seconds, then try to start the engine, the engine should fire momentarily proving that you have a fueling problem.
Then again, if you just rebuilt the engine, it'll have low compressiion and IF you don't have the cas spot on for timing, the thing won't even start with starter fluid.
PROVE to YOURSELF and us that you have a working fuel pump. Either loosen the banjo bolt on the secondary fuel rail to look for spray (non turbo) or remove the return line and put a container under it and turn the key to ON with a jumper in the Fuel Check Connnector.
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Hey hailers thx, i found out my problem!!! My lines where crossed. Not the injector lines but the filter to engine and return lines. Anyways she started right up and boy does she sound good. I have another problem though. It seems like one problem after another. When i started it the engine seemed to rev up on me. Its probably the 3k when cold rev but i don't wanna take a chance on my rebuild. Also none of my gagues or warning lights are working so i can't leave my engine running. This happened after i took off my dash harness and put it back together. I think i have it back on there right but the gagues and warning lights aren't working. Everything else seems to work though. Wiper, lights, horn, airconditiong, turn signals. Any thoughts on this would be appriceated.
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The METER fuse seems to be popped. Try another one. Inside the car fuse box. Third row from the bottom. Third fuse from your left if your looking towards the box.
That fuse does: Overdrive system, Cruise control system, Meter and Warning Lights, Backup lights, Auto Adjusting Suspensoin, Therft deterrent system, Warning and Auto Clock System, Key cylinder lights .
If not the fuse, you left off one of the two round plugs on the back of the combination meter OR
That fuse does: Overdrive system, Cruise control system, Meter and Warning Lights, Backup lights, Auto Adjusting Suspensoin, Therft deterrent system, Warning and Auto Clock System, Key cylinder lights .
If not the fuse, you left off one of the two round plugs on the back of the combination meter OR
#18
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i kind of have the same problem. my gauges dont seem to be working at all. i posted before but didnt ever figure out wat WAS wrong. my car starts for about 4 or 5 sec. then just dies off. could it be that same wire? or is it a relay? where exactly ARE the relays?? sorry for thread jacking.
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Originally Posted by 86gxl_fc
both 7.5 fuses??? what do you mean by that?
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