rebuilt engine add coolant light/buzzer keeps going off???
#1
87 T2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: florida
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rebuilt engine add coolant light/buzzer keeps going off???
Ok I just got My rebuild today drove it from the shop about 1/4 mile and the add coolant light came on, I turned around tool it back to the shop, Mechanic said it was the fill cap spring wasnt working he changed it and it stopped. I drove it on the highway about 20 miles or so no problem drove great I get off the highway get into some trafic and it starts going off again!!! The shop is closed and Im supossed to drive home tonight but I dont want to drive it. the over flow and radiator are both full. ANY IDEAS???
Thanks Alot
Thanks Alot
#3
87 T2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: florida
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well Im at my girlfriends and I dont have the tools to do it....would I be ok driving it about 20 miles on the highway back to the shop??? When I was driving it on the highway befor it wasnt doing it and the temp was normal.
and how do I bleed the coolant???
and how do I bleed the coolant???
Last edited by josh greene; 04-26-05 at 07:45 PM.
#4
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
You dont really need any tools. Take off the cap on your tstat housing and let the car idle (careful removing the cap is the system is pressurized!). Leave the heater on full blast and gently squeeze the lower rad hose at the same time while it is idling. May take 10 minutes or more.
#5
87 T2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: florida
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just read a thread that said,
No, you use the bleeders and bleed the air out.
Unscrew the highest bleed. Fill radiator, put the cap back on the radiator, squeeze the top radiator hose a couple of times, until coolant is flowing out the bleed. Put the bleed in, take the highest point cap back off, fill to over flowing. cap on. squeeze a couple more times, remove cap fill, repeat until you no longer hear air bubbles moving when you squeeze the top hose.
At no point should you have to run the engine with the cap off.
Should I do this with the engine hot?? or does it not matter
No, you use the bleeders and bleed the air out.
Unscrew the highest bleed. Fill radiator, put the cap back on the radiator, squeeze the top radiator hose a couple of times, until coolant is flowing out the bleed. Put the bleed in, take the highest point cap back off, fill to over flowing. cap on. squeeze a couple more times, remove cap fill, repeat until you no longer hear air bubbles moving when you squeeze the top hose.
At no point should you have to run the engine with the cap off.
Should I do this with the engine hot?? or does it not matter
Last edited by josh greene; 04-26-05 at 07:56 PM.
#6
Lives on the Forum
Hey man, one easy thing to do is to check the one-wire harness that runs from the level sensor on top of the rad. Maybe the rebuilder didn't push the connector ends together good enough or something. The connector is down by the air filter area in most cases, or by the side of the rad...
If the rad and overflow are both full, it may be the wiring...
I have never, ever had to use the bleeder screw at the rad to bleed my systems after a rebuild/ coolant change over the years. Just use the high point cap (t-stat housing on most cars) after she cools down. If it's full there, it should be full everywhere, unless your water pump's crapping out on you...
If the rad and overflow are both full, it may be the wiring...
I have never, ever had to use the bleeder screw at the rad to bleed my systems after a rebuild/ coolant change over the years. Just use the high point cap (t-stat housing on most cars) after she cools down. If it's full there, it should be full everywhere, unless your water pump's crapping out on you...
#7
87 T2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: florida
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats another idea I had if the water pump is craping out and not pushing enough water during normal driving would it possibly be working better in higher RPMs when Im on the highway?
Trending Topics
#8
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Originally Posted by josh greene
I just read a thread that said,
No, you use the bleeders and bleed the air out.
Unscrew the highest bleed. Fill radiator, put the cap back on the radiator, squeeze the top radiator hose a couple of times, until coolant is flowing out the bleed. Put the bleed in, take the highest point cap back off, fill to over flowing. cap on. squeeze a couple more times, remove cap fill, repeat until you no longer hear air bubbles moving when you squeeze the top hose.
At no point should you have to run the engine with the cap off.
Should I do this with the engine hot?? or does it not matter
No, you use the bleeders and bleed the air out.
Unscrew the highest bleed. Fill radiator, put the cap back on the radiator, squeeze the top radiator hose a couple of times, until coolant is flowing out the bleed. Put the bleed in, take the highest point cap back off, fill to over flowing. cap on. squeeze a couple more times, remove cap fill, repeat until you no longer hear air bubbles moving when you squeeze the top hose.
At no point should you have to run the engine with the cap off.
Should I do this with the engine hot?? or does it not matter
Plus how do you think people with s5 waterpumps and s5 koyos bleed the air out without the metal neck s4s have on the thermostat housing and no bleed valve on the radiator. Gotta leave the rad cap off. You would want to do it with the engine hot so the thermostat is open and all of the coolant is flowing unless you want to take out your tstat.
Last edited by ilike2eatricers; 04-26-05 at 08:18 PM.
#9
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally Posted by josh greene
At no point should you have to run the engine with the cap off.
#12
I am 2Furious
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NJ / Philly
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
archive has good stuff
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/filling-coolant-after-rebuild-383818/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/filling-coolant-after-rebuild-383818/
#13
87 T2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: florida
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I went out this morning to bleed the system, I drove the car around for about 20 mins to warm up the engine and nothing let it idel for another 5 or 10 mins and no light no buzzer. befor I drove it I disconnected the plug on on the fill neck and pluged it back in to make sure it was good. could the air worked its way out overnight??? could the plug not have been making a good connection???
Thanks
Thanks
#14
Lives on the Forum
I think it's the fact that you kept driving it around and checking/ adding coolant that finally got it "good to go" now
Keep an eye on the level in your overflow tank- if it doesn't change any over the next couple of drives, you're free and clear to celebrate a job well done...
Keep an eye on the level in your overflow tank- if it doesn't change any over the next couple of drives, you're free and clear to celebrate a job well done...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
smikels
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
3
08-18-15 01:26 PM
ncds_fc
New Member RX-7 Technical
1
08-15-15 10:06 AM