I have talked to a few rotory engine shops and a few knowledgable fellows.

i have come to the comclusion that i will rebuild just the rear half..
has anyone done this, and have any info for me in the way of keeping the pressure on the front half so they dont come apart? one place said they use steel plates to do it, some say strap it together. any help, web sites, links, or pictures of methods will be greatly appreciated,

will write up how it goes./...


thanks

 

well, if you're gonna rebuild the rear rotor only, you're still gonna have to disassemble the whole thing anyway. Why not just get them back up to brand new condition?

 

What's the point? Once your down that far just dissassemble & reassemble the whole thing.

Wouldn't you want to spec the front half parts?

I must be missing something.

 

Spend the extra money and rebuild the front to save the extra hassle in the future. For me, pulling an engine (twice) is a pain in the ***. And more so when you have to tear the engine again.

 

Why does it need a rebuild?

Doing a full rebuild makes sence, you can freshen up your ports and check the condition of all ya bits too.

Kiwi RE is in ACK right, theyre the best. Alec Bell and his crew #1

 

Halfstack works, just make sure keep things togehter, any possible way u`ll have

 

the stupid thing has only been rebuilt about 1500ks ago, i want to keep costs down so i can sell it i want a fd now. why disturb a perfect running front rotor, ive seen a few 1980 engines arount that have never been opened and still a1 condition. if i only tinker with one rotor i have less than 50% of things that can go wrong (front cover, omp, front rotor) will stay sweet.

 

Ahh, if only 1500km ago then I wouldn't worry about it. Why did it blew the rear though?

 

yeah half-stacks are fine, generally just the weigh from the center iron will hold it all in place.

 

its possibly a stuck seal. its been sitting for about 6 months. without being turned over. btw i take it that half stack is half an engine.

 

The easiestand safest way to rebuild just the rear part of the engine is to slide the oil pan down one or two holes until you clear the rear end plate and then bolt up the oil pan. The holes on the oil pan on the side are evenly spaced so you can use quite a few bolts. To be safe i threaded some bolts onto the top of the engine, i think one on the rear rotor housing and one in the front side housing and i used a big bungy cord and wrapped it around the bolts. So the top and the bottom of the engine is tightly bounded. Then you take off the tension bolts and then remove the rear side housing. And the rest of the engine barely moves. I had to do this to change a rotor on a motor that i just built, its a long story but this method works. If you need to take off the rear rotor housing, just slide the oil pan down some more and positon the bungy cord to clear the rear rotor housing. I did this on an engine stand so it was pretty easy.

 

if its been sittin for that long without being turned over i'd rebuild the whole thing

 

your savings like what 20 USD?? tear it open and be sure. You will always wonder if you slipped a oring or something.

 

I did the half stack once... The engine had around 1000 miles on it when it was pulled. No problems. The weight of the center plate kept everything in place while I worked on the rear rotor. The housing o-rings were still very "springy" and I reused them on the rear rotor housing.

 

"your savings like what 20 USD??" it would cost a lot more than that to do the front aswell unless your going to theive all the parts to do it, spose it will cost 20 in gas

 

20.00 is the difference between buying a full rebuild oring kit v. piece by piece for the back only.

I have a question for you, if you have called a few knowledgable rotary shops, why do you ask people you have never met and have no way of insuring their advise is accurate?

Now for the way to do it since you are going to do so -

Will is on track, slide the oil pan down and reattach. I had fashined a l shaped bracket many years ago to attach to the middle housing. I attach it to the top of the center section and run a piece of threaded stock to the waterpump housing where another homemade bracket sits. I torque it down to 2-4 ft lb less than the tension bolts. once both are in place, i remove the tension bolts. In reverse, once the tension bolts are retorqued, I then remove the brackets and reinstall the oil pan.

And finally, please don't rig this motor back together and sell it to someone. Be kind to your fellow rotarite. And good luck with your future FD!