Rebuild Questions *13bT*
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Microtech Tuning!
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: 626 Socal
Rebuild Questions *13bT*
I'm about to rebuild, but am curious on a few things. I don't yet have the engine apart, so I don't know exactly what is everything I will need, but I would like to have a good idea before I begin.
1) Will I need to replace Apex, Corner, and Side seal springs when replacing those seals?
2) If anyone has rebuilt using all-steel GSL-SE Corner seals, do they really not seal as well as the stock rubber & steel Corner seals?... I want to use these seals because they are stronger (according the www.fc3s-pro.com)
3) I'm thinking of going with the 2pc 2mm Apex seals... Is there any real benefit to this?
4) I also read that Side seals are reuseable most of the time. How can you tell if they are too worn, and need replacing?
5) How can you tell if you're Rotor bearings are bad?
6) I'm totally lost on the Oil Control Rings, Oil Seal O-Rings, and Oil Control Ring Springs that Mazdatrix describes on their site. Can someone tell me how many "inner" and "outer" of each I need please? Also, what do they mean by this: "The 'location' of the springs on the rotors is color coded"? What are the different colors for?
7) How do I clean the Rotors and Irons once the engine is apart? Rotor housings?
8) What type of sealants do I use when putting stuff back together? On the Mazdatrix site, they have "Hylomar". I'm guessing this should be good, right?
Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for helping!
1) Will I need to replace Apex, Corner, and Side seal springs when replacing those seals?
2) If anyone has rebuilt using all-steel GSL-SE Corner seals, do they really not seal as well as the stock rubber & steel Corner seals?... I want to use these seals because they are stronger (according the www.fc3s-pro.com)
3) I'm thinking of going with the 2pc 2mm Apex seals... Is there any real benefit to this?
4) I also read that Side seals are reuseable most of the time. How can you tell if they are too worn, and need replacing?
5) How can you tell if you're Rotor bearings are bad?
6) I'm totally lost on the Oil Control Rings, Oil Seal O-Rings, and Oil Control Ring Springs that Mazdatrix describes on their site. Can someone tell me how many "inner" and "outer" of each I need please? Also, what do they mean by this: "The 'location' of the springs on the rotors is color coded"? What are the different colors for?
7) How do I clean the Rotors and Irons once the engine is apart? Rotor housings?
8) What type of sealants do I use when putting stuff back together? On the Mazdatrix site, they have "Hylomar". I'm guessing this should be good, right?
Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for helping!
Special Dark
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 820
Likes: 0
From: oklahoma
Now is a good time to invest in a haynes manual and download the factory one. You can purchase a rebuild video from atkins which explains the oil seals and springs in detail and gives you all the info about cleaning the parts. After teardown you will have to measure all the parts to see if they are within spec. You are going to need stuff like callipers, micrometer, dial indicator etc. Haynes is a good starting point to gain some knowledge about the internals.
Rotary Freak
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,941
Likes: 1
From: sandiego, ca
ill be glad to ansewer a few ?s.
First off besides 10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm sockets and extensions you will need a 1inchdrive impact gun to easily get the pulley and flywheel nut off in a jiff.
Then take the 14 some odd long bolts off back. Then bolts holding front cover on including CAS. Pull main pulley out with key and pintal crap whatever. Wedge off with flat head or hammer or whatver. WIll come off ( if you have already taken oil pan off? Then flatten the washer so you can losen the nut on the oil timing chain thing. Take off together. Pull front side plate off.
Then you will see the rotors...Take other side off and you will see more rotors. Pull out.
You can keep conrer seals no problem ( depending on original mileage ) You can also keep side apex seals and springs.
Please upgrade to turbo or 3rd gen corner seal springs. they are much stronger and will improve compression probly. Buy a 210$ gasket kit... You will need apex seals but mabey not a full set depending on mileage and condition of engine before rebuild. A full set costs 1500
Measure you apex seals with a digital micrometer...If thier within mazda spec of 2.54 or something like that then thier good. Put the 2 apex seals together as if they were in the rotor , only flat on the table when measuring.
To see if thier warped place 2 apex seal top pieces together over a neon paper and make sure you cant see between them. If so then thier not streight.
All side springs are the same I believe so thiers no point in trying to imporve them I think.
Thats all you need for a budget rebuild. Should last another 160k miles if taken care of.
Clean the parts in gasoline. GAS is a perfect solvent. Its dangerous though wach out.
Brush the rotors with gas metaculously to make sure crud is out.
Forget what else I should tell you. But you get the idea.
I forgot what sealants I used but when putting in the water jacket seals around the rotor housings make sure you put small amount of sealant in 5 inch spaces or something to hold it in place because it likes to pop out when you try and put everything back in.
Put rotors in housings with apex seals held by rubber bands. Then get a strong magnet to take them out once everything is in so you can put them in right by um hmmm. Um crap I forgot how I did it lol. But you should ask someone. Im on my second rebuild right now about to put them in again..,
First off besides 10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm sockets and extensions you will need a 1inchdrive impact gun to easily get the pulley and flywheel nut off in a jiff.
Then take the 14 some odd long bolts off back. Then bolts holding front cover on including CAS. Pull main pulley out with key and pintal crap whatever. Wedge off with flat head or hammer or whatver. WIll come off ( if you have already taken oil pan off? Then flatten the washer so you can losen the nut on the oil timing chain thing. Take off together. Pull front side plate off.
Then you will see the rotors...Take other side off and you will see more rotors. Pull out.
You can keep conrer seals no problem ( depending on original mileage ) You can also keep side apex seals and springs.
Please upgrade to turbo or 3rd gen corner seal springs. they are much stronger and will improve compression probly. Buy a 210$ gasket kit... You will need apex seals but mabey not a full set depending on mileage and condition of engine before rebuild. A full set costs 1500
Measure you apex seals with a digital micrometer...If thier within mazda spec of 2.54 or something like that then thier good. Put the 2 apex seals together as if they were in the rotor , only flat on the table when measuring.
To see if thier warped place 2 apex seal top pieces together over a neon paper and make sure you cant see between them. If so then thier not streight.
All side springs are the same I believe so thiers no point in trying to imporve them I think.
Thats all you need for a budget rebuild. Should last another 160k miles if taken care of.
Clean the parts in gasoline. GAS is a perfect solvent. Its dangerous though wach out.
Brush the rotors with gas metaculously to make sure crud is out.
Forget what else I should tell you. But you get the idea.
I forgot what sealants I used but when putting in the water jacket seals around the rotor housings make sure you put small amount of sealant in 5 inch spaces or something to hold it in place because it likes to pop out when you try and put everything back in.
Put rotors in housings with apex seals held by rubber bands. Then get a strong magnet to take them out once everything is in so you can put them in right by um hmmm. Um crap I forgot how I did it lol. But you should ask someone. Im on my second rebuild right now about to put them in again..,
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