I just put the water seals on, and now it doesnt want to start... its has fuel, compression, and spark.... Only thing I could think of is timing..... any help ???

 

probably flooded, try the unflooding procedures listed in the FAQ.

 

ok, first of all, I have a kill switch for the fuel pump... If I play witht he switch, the engine sounds like it wants to turn on but doesnt really do it....

 

Check the CAS. When I put my rebuild together, I somehow managed to get the CAS 180 degrees off (don't put an engine together in a driving rainstorm). The engine sounded like it was trying to start, you could hear some combustion, but it just wouldn't fire. Fixed the CAS, and it fired up on the 1st try.

-=Russ=-

 

So? Still could be flooded. Rebuilt engines can have very low compression initially. Get some oil into the chambers, turn it over by hand a few times, then try and start it with the fuel pump off.

Also, as mentioned above, the CAS is a common mistake. Make sure to follow the factory procedure when you stab it.

 

just push start it. thats the only way i could get mine, now it's fine

 

well, after all it was the CAS... But there was something weird... when I aligned it the way the fsm says to, it wouldnt start at all, even push starting it..... then I found out one of the connectors on the leading coil pack was messed up, so I need to get another one.... it did run though after stabbing the cas at different settings... There was also something else that worried me.... I had rebuilt the engine like a few months ago, it ran fine only problem was the water seals.... so now I just put in the water seals.... my worry is that before I took out the engine, the front rotor had 120 psi, the rear rotor, which was the one with the messed up seal, had about 60.. now when I did the compression test, it was about 95 or 100 on the first and a lil bit over 85 on the rear..... normal to drop compression??

 

You took the engine apart and put it back together...

And you haven't run it yet...

And you're expecting good compression numbers?

Everyone has been telling me since day 1 that for the first few hundred miles you will be lucky to get any compression worth speaking of. =P

--Gary

 

ok, I got great numbers the first time... really great actually.. I ran it already....and the only reason im asking, is because it had beter compression #'s the first. time..
even though it had not miles on the engine, I had a few hours of run time....

 

Exactly.

You won't get the best numbers especially on used housings until you rack up some running time.. Give it time, let it idle... Once you feel confident enough, take it out for a drive, and just be nice.. What kind of seals are you using? Keep the RPM's low (under 3000-4000) until you get some miles on the motor.. I put around 1600 miles on mine before i even thought of going over 4krpms (well maybe i thought about it ).. Change the oil at 500 miles, then at 1000... I'm probably just paranoid, and i ended up changing the oil 3 times during my breakin.. But it was well worth it.

People have different break-in theories of course so search around and see what you think is the best way..

-Justin

 

actually like I previously said, I got pretty good compression witht he housings I had,jspec motor. I had bought the motor and then rebuilt it immediately... right now I have a **** load of leaks.... so ill check the compression again....

Thanks alot for the helo....

 

I had to pull start mine the first time..

 

You know it's possible your battery or starter, or a combination of the two, was weak.

Without a VERY FULL charge on my extremely good battery (has good power when charged and holds it very well... months!) it couldn't turn over the engine.

We ended up buying this 80$ charger/jumper station from Kragen... it jumps it at 80W... lol.

That gets the engine jumping quicker than you can say "SOMETHINGS LEAKING" =P

--Gary