OK my rebuild has a had a leaking omp for a month or so now. I ran ti earlier this week and everything was fine. I ran it today and stepped into a world of ****. First of all i checked the oil and it read full. i then did the unflood procedure caus eit seems to flood constantly. i then jump started a primed (starter fluid) her and started her up.
First of all she backfired at startup and sent my silencers shooting into the wall. the she ran good for a few minutes and started running rough. I went inside to look at the guages. It was dark so i turned on the parklights to light up the cluster. The car died. This sems to happen every tiem i turn on the lights . Originally i thought ti was becasue one of my headlight motors is jammed, but the parking lights dont engage the motors so why woudl this happen. my alternator tested fine.
Now for the major scary problem. I started it again same way as before and it ran for like 2 minutes. It started running really really rough so i went inside with a flashlight this time and looked at the cluster, to discover I have NO OIL PRESSURE at all. i shut it off immediately.

What could be the problem?

 

0 oil pressure usually indicates a blown o-ring in the front cover, or a bad thermo pellet. This is a new area for me, so instead of giving you 'I think' advice, we'll wait for an expert to reply.

 

Why did you continue to drive with a leaking omp when you could have atleast blocked it off and ran premix until you fixed it? You could have caused damange doing so...I bet you cracked the stupid omp lines, ss lines cost just as much as stock, i ordered mine..

-Andrew

 

a blown o-ring in the front cover will still usually net you some oil pressure, not 0 at all. mine blew into little pieces but i still had 10PSI at idle to get home with. check your connection at the oil pressure sending unit, if it is disconnected or dirty then clean it and reinstall it. if it is connected and is clean then ground the wire out and check the gauge with the ignition on, if your oil gause reads full pressure then replace the sending unit.

 

I do not know how to block off the omp. I just got the rebuild back and its underwarranty so i dont wanna **** around too much and risk them blaming something on me. i dont drive it cause its not insured, just let it idle every few days. Now im tryna figure how to get her to the mechanic, i cant drive r ehr with ) pressure and i cant afford a tow.

 

do the test i posted, you probably do have oil pressure but a wiring issue, several if you say it dies when you turn on the headlights... i would be cautious that you don't have oil pressure but a leaky OMP will not cause it to have 0 oil pressure unless it all leaked out. if it's reading on the dipstick then test the circuit, if there is in fact no oil pressure i would call your engine builder.

 

If you cant afford a tow, you cant afford a mechanic. Block off plates are sold at mazdatrix, Im not sure if they have OMP block offs, but they have a few at least. I'll look for you, shouldn't cost more than 5$.
Where is it leaking from? the intake manifold down to the exhaust manifold in terms of oil, or is it right by the omp? If its just the omp, buy the o-ring from mazdatrix. If its one of the lines, and you don't know how to rip that all up and get in there, buy the block off plate.

 

i looked but i can't find OMP block off plates either, i will be making a template for them soon because my OMP is leaky as well, i run premix so i need to get rid of it anyhow.

 

Its leaking form the omp itself. I dont have to pay for the mechanic work becasue its under the warranty of the rebuild, or atleast it will be cheaper. Karack, if the guage is simply reading wrong then why is the engine running rough and shutting off?

 

If its just the OMP, then get yourself some copper crush washers and the o-ring. Bring the parts to the rebuild guy to save some time.

The 0 oil pressure is still of concern, and since it was just rebuilt, I'd take it back for sure. Either its the engine or the gauge is junked.

 

it's probably running rough for other reasons, it's tough to get everything back together exactly the way it came apart, mine needed some tweaking after i put the engine in the first time i would i would expect you would have to also.

it takes 10 seconds to pull the connector off and look at it, it takes another 2-3 mins to connect the wire to a ground, turn on the ignition and look at the gauge. this will tell you if the oil pressure gauge is working or not, i don't know why you are snipping at me, i'm just trying to give you helpful suggestions..

 

Not sure about the o-ring, but a bad thermal pellet does not cause a complete loss of oil pressure. Hot oil pressure will be down ~10psi, cold oil pressure will be normal.

The most common cause of zero oil pressure is the wire falling off the gauge sender, or a dirty connection. Check that first.

 

Karack, I don't know how many times I've pointed people towards ths... but everyone is always complaining about not being able to find block off plates!

Mazdatrix sells them for one, I'm almost positive... it's just hard to find them on their site, but other than them... go to this site, cheap and looks good.

http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html

And since everyone is diagnosing oil pressure things...

I get above 60psi sometimes, about half way between 60 and whatever is above 60.

I thought it shouldn't get that high? Is it a sign of any problems? It doesn't stay there, sometimes it goes down to like 20 I think... I'd look for more patterns but I have about 5 minutes of "run time" heh...

--Gary

 

sure now you send me a link.... i already got the aluminum plate i am going to use to make the template...

 

Im not trying to be rude to you, just informing you of my other issues, sorry if it came off wrong.