I'm pretty sure this article assumes the use of brand new rotor housings. Used rotor housing rebuilds have to build their compression as the new seals properly bed into the old surface.

 

its great being in the military i cant find a spot to rebuild my engine with the RA seals.. so much for wasting time and money ..doh

 

I'm sorry, I have to vehemetly disagree with 100 and 300 mile break-in procedures unless they are doing something magical which I have no clue on.
I dunno what their definition of "broken in", but I would be scared to be recomending only 100 miles for a proper break-in.

I've had to tune a bunch of motors which were going through break-in's, they were all upping compression even at the 2,000 miles mark.
This is REAL obvious when you're tuning a stand-alone EMS, as the fuel maps (especially the coolant maps) drastically change as the compression changes.

I recommend at least a 2,000 miles break-in.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/breakin.html


-Ted

 

Just started breaking in my freshly rebuilt motor.Keeping the revs below 3000,planing for an oil and filter change as soon as I reach the 500 miles mark;then on same story for another 2000 miles.Thats what the mechaic who did the rebuilt sugested so this way it'll be!!!
What worries me a bit is that I find some "oily" stuf on the top mark of the dipstick that goes into the overflow tank.
Since they use so much oil while putting the engine together,I just wonder IS THAT NORMAL??
Any guys with similar experience PLEASE HELP!!
Thanks-
"

 

i used ra seals on used housings and it even fired up the first crank....? but in reality i got them after dec 3rd so i dont know if the really came out with different ones but hey....but i also heard after my install that ra seals cause more wear on the housings than other seals do

 

If they're harder, then yeah, they would eat the housings a bit faster.

I'll know more when I do my 50K teardown sometime next year, but that was a big question mark I had going in to the rebuild (more than a year ago now, with about 26K on her now). Conventional wisdom would dictate that you'd want softer material for the seals than the housing surface has so that the rotor housings wouldn't take the brunt of the wear.

I'm betting, though, that the amount of premix I use will cut down considerably on the housing wear. When I get the teardown done, I'll post up a writeup on wear rates and such for the RA seals compared to the OEM Mazda stuff...

 

Resurrected almost a year old thread!


-Ted

 

It wasn't me, man

The title of the thread being what it is, it probably pops up on a lot of searches...

 

well to continue this year old thread...I just had a motor rebuild for an 88tII with used housings and RA seals...started on the first crank and idled at a solid 750 rpms. The car shoudl be seeing some break-in miles very soon, once all the electrical demons get exorcised.