I've got 2,300 miles on my rebuild. (Street Ported) I'm currently running stock boost but not taking it over 5psi. I'm wondering if it would be alright to run 10 psi safely yet? Or if I still have to slowly creep my boost up every couple 100 miles or so. I haven't checked compression yet, but it starts right up everytime, cold or hot. My mods are in my sig below.

 

i don't see any upgraded injectors i would get them first to be safe but you could rund 10 psi i would upgrade it slowly though try 7 or 8 psi first then 10 jmo

 

I ran 10psi fine before the rebuild (front coolant seal went out)

 

Anyone else have any more convincing input?

 

i was running 8PSI+ on my rebuild ~5 miles after i pulled it out of the driveway, it has 8K now and is doing just fine... after 1000 miles though is when i tell me customers to do as they wish so long as their mods support their foot.

 

Im running an 85 lb/min turbo, with 1600 inj. I have less than 1000 miles in the rebuild, and so far I've gone up to 15lbs on that turbo. Comp is great, never used a kill switch, only the first time starting the car. Its all in the builders opinion and/or experience. I allowed the seals to sit good for about 100miles. After that I never noticed an improvement in comp. AFter 100miles, I got 120/115. Before the 100m I had about 100 in each. This was on used housings and I reused a few parts. Obviously if you are using almost completely new parts, then your break in time should be more.

Again it depends wat your builder recommends. Most of the time, the break in time is built into the warranty.

 

newer parts = less break in time actually since they seal much quicker than worn parts.


as far as i'm concerned though it is all relative to the condition of the rotor housings, clean and flat housings will break in fast so they can take abuse much quicker than older worn out semi grooved housings where the seals may take as much as 1500+ miles to break in.

 

are you talking about the compression #'s or actual breakin? If you are reusing parts there is no need to break those in. If your comp #'s arent good at all after running the car for a bit, then the housings you used werent too great. Out of the motors I've done(which were jspec cores except one), they all had 90 compression in about 1/2 hr of idle and slight reving(I do the test after smoke is all gone and stops idling rough). 1 of those motors had 120/100 which was mine, in less than 10 miles of driving. And one had 85/76IIRC which I used housings that I wouldnt use on my own motor, but my friend didnt have any money for other housings( I did the motor free). None of those motors had new housings or plates, just seals and sideseals.

Im not sure on comp. #'s of a completely redone motor(mazdareman) because I havent seen one nor worked on one. But I guess you are right about it sealing better, and most likely having perfect compression as soone as you crank it. But then again I guess Ill see the #'s with luim7's motor(new housings, lapped irons).

 

Also - Rotary Avaition seals are made to break in faster than Mazda or Atkins.

 

So......I should be fine running 10 psi? I used used housings, but they were in excellent condition. Compression before the rebuild was 110 front and 95 rear. (rebuilt b/c of coolant seal) Should I upgrade injectors and get a AFC before I try to run anything higher than 10psi?

I'll also be checking compression tomorrow to see what my numbers are. I'll reply back here with the results.

 

i have heard on the contrary that the rotary aviation seals actually take longer to brake it beacuse they are made of a stronger metal..supposiddly aviation seals are fully broken in until 3,000 miles......wich sucks cause thats what i bought

 

ok i have a similar question about boost.

my car has 3" piping from the turbo back, no cat, with a Apexi GT Spec exhaust. from what i hear the reason why it blew the engines is that it was boosting 20 lbs. it has a manual boost controller, and stock internal wastegate.

my question is, if i were to take off the boost controller would i be able to run with stockish boost? or would i have to play around ith the manual or get a digital boost controller?

i know that the xhaust would have a small jump in lbs, but it would still be close to the 5-7lbs

 

What MBC do you have? From what it sounds like, I'm running about the same exact setup as you are describing. I've never had troubles with keeping the boost steady. I've got the TurboXS MBC and the Defi D-Gauge boost gauge. Holds my boost solid at 10psi (well used to until the coolant seal went out)........Currently holds boost solid at 6psi.

 

i have no idea, i figure i am going to make it so that it is at the least boost possible.

if i completely remove the MBC then i will boost high because i have the fuel cut defender thingy

 

How is removeing the Boost controller going to make you boost higher then if you had it? A boost controller of any sorts can not lower boost, only raise it. You cannot boost lower then the spring you have in the WG.