Rebuild = starts, but has a few issues!
Rebuild = starts, but has a few issues!
I've got an 88 vert that just recieved an 87 Turbo engine. Took me forever, but I got it running today. Oil pressure looks good, temp gauge shows nominal temperature.
Well I let the car idle for about 10 minutes, then the coolant overflow tank filled up and started to spew, so I turned it off immediately. Gauge was nowhere near hot, so I'm pretty sure it didn't overheat in 10 minutes at idle.
Also, the wire to the water thermo switch on the water pump got broken, and I cannot find where it runs in the harness. I wired up a new wire for it, but cannot find where it runs to. I've looked through the hayne's and the FSM and cannot find where it goes. I've checked everywire I could find with a multimeter to find the other end of the wire, but to no avail.
Any ideas on what's going on?
Well I let the car idle for about 10 minutes, then the coolant overflow tank filled up and started to spew, so I turned it off immediately. Gauge was nowhere near hot, so I'm pretty sure it didn't overheat in 10 minutes at idle.
Also, the wire to the water thermo switch on the water pump got broken, and I cannot find where it runs in the harness. I wired up a new wire for it, but cannot find where it runs to. I've looked through the hayne's and the FSM and cannot find where it goes. I've checked everywire I could find with a multimeter to find the other end of the wire, but to no avail.
Any ideas on what's going on?
Actually, I'm an idiot and found where it could go, so I'm going to go check it out. But would it not being plugged in cause the coolant to overflow? Like I said, the temperature was practically cold.
First off, did you do the rebuild yourself?
If so, did you installed the new coolant seals correctly? Did you make sure to use hylomar or some other non-setting sealant with the seals? My car has a blown coolant seal and it wont particularly overheat imediately, but bubble over until it runs out of coolant.
With the coolant full and all air BLED(large plastic philips head screw on pass. side of rad.) from radiator and hoses, take off the rad cap. Pull the ENG IGN fuse (I think thats want it says on the fuse box). Have someone crank the engine while you watch the filler. If you see bubbles, compression is leaning into the coolant passage.
Hope this isnt your problem.
If so, did you installed the new coolant seals correctly? Did you make sure to use hylomar or some other non-setting sealant with the seals? My car has a blown coolant seal and it wont particularly overheat imediately, but bubble over until it runs out of coolant.
With the coolant full and all air BLED(large plastic philips head screw on pass. side of rad.) from radiator and hoses, take off the rad cap. Pull the ENG IGN fuse (I think thats want it says on the fuse box). Have someone crank the engine while you watch the filler. If you see bubbles, compression is leaning into the coolant passage.
Hope this isnt your problem.
I didn't rebuild it, Kevin at Rotary Resurrection did. IIRC there was a fair bit of air in the system when I filled it up, so I dunno if that would be the problem. Also, when I pulled out the plugs, there wasn't any visual signs of coolant on them, or around the plug holes. The cap on the waterpump looks kind of old as well, I guess I should replace it too.
Okay, my dumbass forgot to put the tube back on INSIDE of the overflow tank, so all it did was catch coolant, and build it up. The cap on the waterpump is shot as well, I need a new one. I am going to do a full flush and refill tomorrow after work I guess.
I still need to know where that wire goes. From the water thermo switch to where? Any help would be appreciated.
I still need to know where that wire goes. From the water thermo switch to where? Any help would be appreciated.
Yeah, I am a complete idiot. The cap on the waterpump was entirely shot, as in the spring assembly wasn't even on it. So it was venting to the overflow tank by default. So when the temp would get up a little bit, it would just shoot into the tank. So, I am officially the biggest dumbass in the universe. In other news, that's not a big deal whatsoever.
But I still need to know where that thermo switch goes, the thermostat is most definately plugged in, but the thermo switch isn't. Any help would be very, super gnarly.
But I still need to know where that thermo switch goes, the thermostat is most definately plugged in, but the thermo switch isn't. Any help would be very, super gnarly.
Trending Topics
Id rather be a complete idiot than have a blown coolant seal
I found a picture of where the thermo switch plugs into the harness. Its on page 4A-46 of the Fuel and emissions chapter in the FSM. Thats for a NA, so i dont know if itll help you. Hope that helps!
I found a picture of where the thermo switch plugs into the harness. Its on page 4A-46 of the Fuel and emissions chapter in the FSM. Thats for a NA, so i dont know if itll help you. Hope that helps!
Well, my N/A doesn't have the damn thing in the waterpump assembly! It's weird. The wire is there, it's green/black, but it doesn't have a plug to plug into. On the Turbo, the wire was black, but somehow it looks green black at the harness! My brain melted when I was trying to figure it out. I'll check that page out, thanks man.
Either way, I still feel like a complete moron. Lesson learned! I'm glad my car hasn't blown up, yet.
Either way, I still feel like a complete moron. Lesson learned! I'm glad my car hasn't blown up, yet.
Yeah, I found it in 4B-46 actually, for the turbo. I still can't seem to find where the wire goes? The Haynes manual shows it going to the fan control relay, but where is that located?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rxmiles
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
Aug 24, 2015 02:07 PM



