I have a '90' RX-7 GTU. I love it. I drive it as my main car. It is fast; header, modified stock intake housing with K&N filter, trick exhaust, did some work to the secondaries so they come on sooner via a vacum bypass etc...Oh! and I find it handles great with Kumho 215 50 15's front and the 225's on rear! I could go on and on...

My question pertains to the rear suspension. I need to replace the bushings(4 total) on the small vertical links which look like tiny dog bones. Are those the A-arm control links? What is their terminology? factory Mazda wants to rip me off for $115 per link. I guess you cant simply replace the bushings.

Help!!

 

To me it sounds like you're talking about the sway bar endlinks, I could be wrong though. If that's the case, you should try check Mazdatrix. They offer the endlinks for $66.80 for the pair... http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm

If that's not what you're talking about, try take a pic and post it. Hope that helps.

 

It also sounds like the links on the front end of the rear sub frame.
Mazdatrix (and other vendors) sell adjustable links that adjust camber once they are installed.


-Ted

 

The sway bar endlink is closer to the wheel hub and the brake rotor, and the camber link is farther forward and closer to the driveshaft. Hope that helps.

Off topic, but could you post a pic of your rear tires. Im thinking about putting 225/50R15's on my GTU and I just wanted to know how the sidewalls looked.

 

+1

I prefer the rear subframe vertical link for ease of rear camber adjustment though.

 

Thanks for the quick replies. I have my mechanic ordering the parts via factory Mazda. Screw it, I'll just pay heir price.

I need a digital camera. However I can tell they are the Kumho 711's. This is the second set I have run on my ride. The 215 50 15's run great on front with the 225's on rear. They are treadwear 320 so their pretty tacky, but they wont last as long as a treadwar 400. The larger tires on the rear make it track like it were on rails. You can't rotate them because they are directional radials, oh well!. Running the tires this way, in my opinion, unleashes some really deep down handling charecteristics of this already intense sports car. Check out Kumho on google. I am sure you can purchase them on the web and have them shipped out.

I purchased my second gen '90' GTU used with 20k miles on it from a Ford dealership in '93'. (Had a '90' 5.0 mustang that was falling apart so I traded it for the seven). (My seven had been on the lot over 30 days. The dealer warned me; "It's one of those rotary engines" I was like; "Oh no, not one of those!!..." ) Turns out they had to wholesale out my 5.0 Mustang ). Felt like I was fleeing the scene of a crime as I was driving away, fixated at the huge RPM guage on my new seven; rotars humming and purring... hehe...<manicalal laughter>

I have been driving my seven ever since; commuting etc... it is by far the best car I have ever owned.

Just make sure to keep your oil fresh, the side seals can develop micro groves if your oil gets to dirty over time. I run a quality 20-50W. Sometimes(not all the time) I run Mobil one 15-50W. If I don't change it with the synthetic, I make sure to dump in some STP each oil change so the synthetic molocules can do their thing.

I now have 153K on it and the compression is great, no smoke during a cold start up.

OH! If you change your plugs about every 15K-20k like I do; use NGK's! Only way to go. Also, rotary engines do not like to be "lugged" around town at low RPM's. Carbon is their enemy. (Constant redlinning is also not good, but on the hwy I often find myself in 4th gear at 4k- 4.5k revs, as opposed to 5th gear 3k revs). In the GTU I find 5th gear is usually for over 75-80 mph and hyper velocities attract too much attention

 

Sorry to break it to you, but Kumho 711's aren't that great. The only thing they're really good for is being cheap. If you want great tires, get some Falken Azenis, they're pretty much the stickyest street tires out there, and they're not that expensive either. Others to try would be Hankook RS-2's, or Kumho MX's. I also prefer to run the same sizes front and rear, it helps the car to not understeer too much. I'm a tire geek though, I run the softest tires I can get away with/afford, my new tires are OEM Subaru WRX STi tires, Bridgstone RE070's, 140 wear rating!! They're capable of hitting 1.0g's, but are only available in 225/45/17. I can't wait untill spring when I can finally try them out on my FC.

Anyway, good to know that you're enjoying it, I certainly love my FC.

 

Hmmm... good info. Thanks.

For the 'cheap' price the 711's rock!! IMHO

When these wear out; and it won't be long. I will probably try one of your suggestions.

 

+1 for the falkens..they SOOOOOOO sticky!!!

 

Those Kumho 711's will put your car into a wall.
They should not be calling those things "performance tires", cause they are far from it.
If you've ever driven on some real performance tires, you'd understand why.


-Ted

 

711's are nothing more than a good street tire, not a performance tire at all.

 

I have some advans from the evo 8 but they look like they will only fit on the rear and i am yet to try them out. They are pretty sticky though. I am running th neogens now and they seem okay. I am yet to get the balance of the car perfect so I have not pushed them too much.