driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

I dropped my rear subframe yesterday and everything slid out without an issue. I'm looking for parts companies for refreshing the rear subframe. The car will see track days

Should I use solid or Mazda comp bushings? What bushing should I use for the control arm? I've read poly binds up, and I don't see stock rubber available. Dtss eliminators are in already, new bearings and studs as well. Camber bar choices? Individual camber adjusters? Spherical bearings?

Please guide me.

monty11ez

The biggest question is how much do you care about noise or vibration?

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

It's a weekend car so its not a huge concern. How much of a difference is it from stock bushings?

rx7jocke

bzzzz klonk(gearchange) bzzzaaiiizzzz klonk(gearchange) bzzziiaaeewwwwwiiiiiiiiwiwiwiwiwiwIWiWiWiWi (full throttle 3rd gear), the faster u go the louder the WIWIWI gets from the diff and the bzzzzzz from the gearbox changes with engine rev when into gear.
thats about the sound of my urethane mounted rear end (reamemiya diff)with poly trans mounts and engine mounts and poly front end, i have no carpet and no sound absorbants at all, all the trans and diff bearings are new aswell and the sound level is about 85db (measured with a pro device), btw did i say i love it? :-)
it also feels like a gocart and made a bigger differance then my tein coilovers.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Here is everything you need to know:

Get individual camber adjusters

Get Spherical or OEM rear control arm bushings - no delrin, no poly here. If you are on a budget, and your OEM bushings are in good shape, leave them, this is a good corner to cut.

If your sub link is sloppy, replace it with a decent aftermarket unit. No need to spend more than $100 or so. If it is in good shape you can leave it.

As for bushings, get all Mazdacomp or all delrin with a solid diff mount. Don't mix and match, that is how you rip the diff mount off the subframe. If you go solid bushings you must get or make a solid diff mount. A muffler shop should be able to box in an OEM diff mount for you to make it

If your toe links are sloppy, replace them with good quality adjustable units.

If you are keeping a rear sway bar get upgraded end links.

My car is mostly for track use and I had my car set up with all solid delrin suspension and diff mounts. Boxed OEM front diff mount, DTSS bushings, spherical control arm bearings and individual camber adjusters.

NVH was louder and more clunks were felt but it was not horrible and still quieter than the exhaust.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Thanks. that helps a lot. I'm gonna go with spherical control arm bushings, and mazda comp diff bushings. I'll let the toe links wait, and will get a camber bar now because the rear has a lot of camber from the looks of it. Poly bushings in stock sway bar endlinks okay? or do the adjustable endlinks make a large enough difference for the price?

eage8

iTrader: (9)

If you get the AWR spherical bearings for the rear control arms it deletes the stock rear toe adjuster cams... so you'll need adjustable toe links.

MMR used to make sphericals that didn't do this, but they're not around anymore


for the end-links, just get some spherical ones from mazdatrix. they're pretty cheap and the best for the money.


If you can, I'd recommend not using individual camber adjusters, they're more trouble than they're worth (they loosen up/break + they bind because they don't have double spherical bearings like stock units). Try to get the rear camber close with just the subframe camber link.

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

+1

1st of all thank god the MMR ones are not available anymore, they were garbage and broke even with AWR spherical trailing arm bushings. (though personally i never used them)

Unlike some folks, I never have issues with binding using polyurethane trailing arm bushings. I think the main reason was i never used the adjustible side camber adjusters for macroscopic adjustments and I didnt go crazy with lowering the car (only about 1.5-2" total), thus the geometry didnt have to change much from stock using the side to side adjustable inner trailing arm links. Instead i made major adjustments with the center subframe link and just used the side ones for evening out side -to-side. The only reason the poly bushings bind up is using the side to side adjustible camber links to make substantial changes from stock geometry to really dial out camber on a lowered car or to correct for crash damage. Also my cars run between -1.7 and -2.0 rear static camber. I think that's a lot more (numerically less?) than other folks like to run so it does not require major difference in length vs the stock links.

I still went back to the stock ones, mainly due to class rules. I never did have any issues with the AWR adjustable ones. They just were not worth risking class rule issues and the regular greasing they needed to work properly.

So personally I have the following on both my cars.

-Energy suspension poly bushings.
-Mazdaspeed diff mounts (both front and rear)
-Stock Subframe mounts (never found a need for anything else, but i'm not drag launching with an LS2 either)
-AWR center subframe camber adjuster link (this is the only one that does not clunk horribly)

Lots of track time and racing on this setup, no issues whatsoever.

You might try no sway bar in the rear, saving you any need for end link upgrades. So far i like the way the car handles with no rear sway bar.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

I had thought the AWR rear spherical bearings had the option of keeping the factory toe eccentrics? Is this not the case? I have the MMR versions.

Also I've had good luck with MMR individual camber adjusters so far. I have over 3500 track miles on my car with and without a V8. I use locknuts to keep them loosely retained so they can move, and I grease them as part of regular maintenance.

I am going to go to shortened fixed length units though for peace of mind.