street_ruler

Year 87
Model tubro II

the clock seems to work when it feels like. some times its really dim some times its gone entirely and sometimes its bright as day. any thoughts on this?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Very common, so common it seems like a designed mode of operation.
It's solder point failure, the module needs removing and resoldering.

jjwalker

Very common, and clokker is correct.

My clock works about as common as an albino deer sighting in downtown Dallas.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

I have actually seen Jackrabbits in Downtown Dallas before.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Did they have working clocks?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Why in fact one particularly vocal one kept saying he was late, and he DID have a pocket-watch.

jjwalker

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Not to point out the obvious, but I believe this info is in the FAQ.

street_ruler

There's no symptoms listed other than "not working" rather than odd functionality. Thus why I'm asking

I hate soldering things.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Then leave it to someone who has experince for you have to desolder first then resolder. The item being worked upon is rather sensitive to heat so the soldering tool needs to be able to operate at the correct temperature range.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

There are two distinct failure modes, the clock itself and/or the lighting.
Is the clock correct when it flashes back on? If so, the lighting is at fault and that's not surprising because Mazda was in love with overly complex whizbangs in the electrical system. Supposedly, the clock illumination is bright during the day and then dims when the running/head lights come on.

Usually, when my clock deigns to make an appearance, the time is still correct, which means the clock is fine and has not lost power and reset to 1:00. It's the lighting that's messed up and it will flicker between bright and dim until it gives up and goes dark again. Sometimes, flicking the lights on will resurrect the clock but lately, not so much.

Were I less lazy (and didn't already plan a completely different solution) I'd sort through the schematic and find the wire that comes from the gauge cluster lighting (tells the clock whether it's "dark" or not) and disable it.
I'm thinking this would bypass the "switching" function in the clock illumination circuit and maybe it'd work consistently (albeit consistently bright, as well).
This is just a theory so far though and I haven't tried it.

The reason I haven't gone further (besides the aforementioned sloth) is that of late, the clock itself has started acting stupid.

It used to really irk me (which is why I spent so much time working on my alternative plan) because the clock was my bellweather for the car's health...if the clock worked, everything probably worked and I was reassured.
My flickering clock just reminds me the the ravages of time are accreting, my best efforts be damned.