2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Rear oil cooler line

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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 02:07 PM
  #1  
veedubbed's Avatar
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Rear oil cooler line

Ironically enough, I got the front line off without much trouble, but the rear one is being a bear. I stuck a 15/16 on there and pulled with everything I had, and it slipped. I don't really want to keep going with that wrench, beuuase I don't want to round it off. That was the closed end too, so now I'm at a loss of how to get it off. The motor is still in the car. I don't need the lines, so I could just cut it, but I want to save that for a last resort. Any ideas on how to get this bolt out of here now?
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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Well I would get the correct size in metric and try again. Also the open end is less likely to round it off if its the right size.
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 03:13 PM
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87 t-66's Avatar
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get the correct size metric socket (i dont remember off hand what size) and an impact gun
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 03:54 PM
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Use a 6 point socket too.
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 04:01 PM
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23 mm socket i believe?

cant remember 100%

try loading it up with some PB Blaster too, the end of the line that mounts to the oil cooler is even harder to free up than the one on the motor...

good luck
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 07:47 PM
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Yep..23mm..it is Not usually IN a regular Store Socket set...I had to get 15/16 to get the Banjo Bolt off the cooler,the oether one came off with the adapter..If you find the wrench is too thick,take a grinder to it.Make it thinner to get in between the Line and the adapter(or the engine,can't remember Exactly..I know I had to Fiddle with the wrench to get at one line).
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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damn a little pb blast and big adj wrench mine came off no time..leverage is your friend..
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:16 PM
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Throw a pipe on that wrench! I didn't have a 23mm so I used a bigass crescent wrench CAREFULLY.

Worked like a charm...removing, installing, and removing it again
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by platinumyama32
try loading it up with some PB Blaster too, the end of the line that mounts to the oil cooler is even harder to free up than the one on the motor...

good luck
Just how is PB blaster going to penetrate past the copper crush washer, it's made to keep the oil in the engine... It's almost like spraying it on the e-shaft bolt, and expecting the PB Blaster the get past the copper washer, the RTV, and the locktite. Not going to happen, you just have to be persistent with it, use the box end of the 15/16" wrench on the bolt, and use a second wrench with the box end in the open end of the 15/16" wrench for more leverage, it'll come right off.
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:26 PM
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How the **** are you going to put a box end on a line? I don't think he's planning on taking it off the oil cooler too...
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:49 PM
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Thanks for all the help.... I wound up using the bolt cutters. That'll teach that line who's boss.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by The Shaolin
How the **** are you going to put a box end on a line? I don't think he's planning on taking it off the oil cooler too...
Well actually it's quite simple, the rear line he is talking about is the bolt that holds the line to the to the block is a bolt; like they all are, unless aftermarket AN it's a banjo bolt back there, so a box end will work easy... How the **** would you get a socket on it? Thats how you get a box end on it!

And what is PB blaster going to do when the threads are clean because it's an OIL line, oil is slippery.

Should I show you how a banjo bolt works?

Nice try though
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 10:47 AM
  #13  
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23MM and a breaker bar. Just put some effort into it and it will break loose.

Penetrating oil will not help in this circumstance.

Funny, usually it is the front cover fitting that's a pain...
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