rear injector problem
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rear injector problem
after the t2 swap, the primary injector on the rear chamber isnt firing. I have swapped the primary injectors and it still only runs on the front chamber. I have 3 different ecu's and they all do the same thing. Is there someting in particular for me to be looking for here?
thanks
thanks
#3
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And another thing. What harness did you use on the engine? Is this JDM EM harness or a USA version or a non turbo EM harness?
A clue to this MIGHT be knowing that when a turbo car gets above a certain boost pressure, it cuts the fuel to the rear rotor. IF this is a turbo EM harness on a non turbo car I can see how this can happen even during start.
A clue to this MIGHT be knowing that when a turbo car gets above a certain boost pressure, it cuts the fuel to the rear rotor. IF this is a turbo EM harness on a non turbo car I can see how this can happen even during start.
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it is a n332 ecu that I have on it now. It is a US n/a harness that I am using on it and the engine is out of a 88 US t2 car. I have also tried 2 n/a n327 ecu's on it just to see, and it does the same thing.
The pressure sensor is a n/a one so it wont read boost at all, which the car shouldnt be boosing at idle anyway.
thanks for the help
The pressure sensor is a n/a one so it wont read boost at all, which the car shouldnt be boosing at idle anyway.
thanks for the help
#5
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****The pressure sensor is a n/a one so it wont read boost at all, which the car shouldnt be boosing at idle anyway.*****
True. I was thinking if you had used the turbo EM harness and did not alter the plugs where the EM and F harness mate, then there would be 12vdc on the pin 2B (boost sensor input)of the ECU which when it sees over 3.65 vdc does the fuel cut thing with the rear rotor.
I can't think of a thing to cause your problem considering the ECU etc. You might see what voltage is on pin 2B just to be sure though. Less than 3.65 is normal. Usually much less than that. Or disconnect the boost/pressure sensor and see if that helps. But it does it with N327 soooooo, that's not it.
Shouldn't be anything to look for in particular. I've a similar swap using the n'/a harness with turboII engine. No problems.
INjector plugs where they should be going? Got 12vdc on all four injector wires AT the ECU?
Rear primary Light green/black.
My original thought was about a fellow who had a European harness or ECU and the pinouts were not the same f0r some items that dealt with fuel or boost sensor input. If you had one of those weird ECU's I was going to look for that thread. But you don't.
True. I was thinking if you had used the turbo EM harness and did not alter the plugs where the EM and F harness mate, then there would be 12vdc on the pin 2B (boost sensor input)of the ECU which when it sees over 3.65 vdc does the fuel cut thing with the rear rotor.
I can't think of a thing to cause your problem considering the ECU etc. You might see what voltage is on pin 2B just to be sure though. Less than 3.65 is normal. Usually much less than that. Or disconnect the boost/pressure sensor and see if that helps. But it does it with N327 soooooo, that's not it.
Shouldn't be anything to look for in particular. I've a similar swap using the n'/a harness with turboII engine. No problems.
INjector plugs where they should be going? Got 12vdc on all four injector wires AT the ECU?
Rear primary Light green/black.
My original thought was about a fellow who had a European harness or ECU and the pinouts were not the same f0r some items that dealt with fuel or boost sensor input. If you had one of those weird ECU's I was going to look for that thread. But you don't.
Last edited by HAILERS; 07-01-07 at 03:47 PM.
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The front primary wires should be one wire light green ...the other brown.
The rear primary wires should be one wire light green/black and the other wire brown/red.
The front secondary wires should be one wire light green/white and the other wire brown/white.
The rear secondary wires should be one wire light green/red and the other wire brown/yellow.
That is for early 87 cars with the solenod resistor package located under the airfliter and bolted to the fender.
The rear primary wires should be one wire light green/black and the other wire brown/red.
The front secondary wires should be one wire light green/white and the other wire brown/white.
The rear secondary wires should be one wire light green/red and the other wire brown/yellow.
That is for early 87 cars with the solenod resistor package located under the airfliter and bolted to the fender.
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I really don't see how it(the solenoid resistor package) could be a problem MYSELF. The EASIEST way to see if it's good, is to simply go to each injector plug and pull it off. One wire on each injector should have12vdc. It's as simple as that. KEY TO ON.
Or go to the ECU and pull the small plug off. Find the four wires for the fuel injectors. They are the light green, light green/black, light green/red and the light green/white. All should have 12v on them.
Or if that plug is off, and the key to ON, you could MOMENTARILY put a ground to each wire and listen for a fuel injector to click. I mean a piece of spare wire with one end to a ground point like say the studs that hold the ECU in place or just touching the ECU chassis itself if it's bolted down. Then for a half second or less, touch each of the wires mentioned above in the SMALL plug of the ECU. The injector for that wire should click.
So I assume you have the resistor package so I'm not going to write down the injhector wire colors for a later 87 and on car
I think you must have the rear primary on the wrong injector plug.
By the way, what makes you so sure the rear primary has no power????? Or isn't working?
Or go to the ECU and pull the small plug off. Find the four wires for the fuel injectors. They are the light green, light green/black, light green/red and the light green/white. All should have 12v on them.
Or if that plug is off, and the key to ON, you could MOMENTARILY put a ground to each wire and listen for a fuel injector to click. I mean a piece of spare wire with one end to a ground point like say the studs that hold the ECU in place or just touching the ECU chassis itself if it's bolted down. Then for a half second or less, touch each of the wires mentioned above in the SMALL plug of the ECU. The injector for that wire should click.
So I assume you have the resistor package so I'm not going to write down the injhector wire colors for a later 87 and on car
I think you must have the rear primary on the wrong injector plug.
By the way, what makes you so sure the rear primary has no power????? Or isn't working?
Last edited by HAILERS; 07-01-07 at 07:31 PM.
#12
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Got a spare CAS????? IF you had the upper intake off, you could attach a spare cas to the wiring harness. Just leave the cas that is in the engine alone and just attach the electrical plug that is on it, to your spare cas.
Key on. Spin the spare cas with your fingers while listening to the clicking of the injectors. Only the primarys should click. You might pull the small white, two wire plug off the lead coil assy so the sparkplugs won't also click and decieve you. I forget what the plug for the trail coil looks like. PUlll it off for the same reason.
All the other plugs have to be connected up to do that. LIke the ECU plugs and the solenoid resistor package. Key to ON. Spin the spare cas lower gear by hand.
Key on. Spin the spare cas with your fingers while listening to the clicking of the injectors. Only the primarys should click. You might pull the small white, two wire plug off the lead coil assy so the sparkplugs won't also click and decieve you. I forget what the plug for the trail coil looks like. PUlll it off for the same reason.
All the other plugs have to be connected up to do that. LIke the ECU plugs and the solenoid resistor package. Key to ON. Spin the spare cas lower gear by hand.
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I'm sure because its not runing on the rear rotor, it has fire so i took the UIM off and had a friend spin it over and used a "mechanics stethascope" to listen to the inectors. I can here the front primary clicking and not the rear one. I have swapped the injectors and same thing. I have also checked the 2 secondaries while spining over and they werent clicking either, so I think they are not hooked up incorrectly. I will check the colors tomorrow and I will also check to see if each one has 12v on one of the wires.
I really apreciate all your help here... this is m first rx7 and its quite a learning curve as compared to the things I'm used to working on.
I really apreciate all your help here... this is m first rx7 and its quite a learning curve as compared to the things I'm used to working on.
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