jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I got this 90' rear hub off Ebay and was looking to replace the bearing and install DTSS bushing. First picture is as received and second picture is after steam cleaning, but the question is do I need the rubber thing with the Mickey Mouse ears after DTSS bushing Install? I'm not really sure of it's purpose?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

no..you don't.

(parts guy got mad at me After I had ordered it then said:"NO,don't need it!"..)

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Just curious because I read somewhere in here during search a couple weeks ago not to break the fiber washer. I'm not sure what that is and thought maybe they meant rubber piece.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I would assume that by that washer you would mean the washer between the upper part of the hub assembly..the bolt goes across the top.(direction wise:goes front to back of car)
That part also has that compression sleeve in it that you need to move back to put the assembly back on.
You will see it on the assembly,the bolt goes though and when you put the nut on that Sleeve is compressed inwards to hold everything in place.
THINK alternator BOLT..you know that freakin stupid thing on the rear Ear of the ALT?...that thing!
(With the assembly off,if you slide the bolt in the hole and nut it,then use the bolt,hit it on the sleeve,it will push the sleeve back outwards for easy installation.)

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Not really sure what you're referring to right now but once I take the wheel off I'll get the picture.

I hate that alternator piece on the back!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

PIC #2 that you posted.look at the "ears" on the right..You can see the little sleeve thing on the front Ear.(where the bolt would go through)
same as the one by the DTSS ..that is on the furthest ear in the pic.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Thanks misterstyx69. Been driving around to local tire shops all day to find a press to press out the hub. No one in this lame town seems to have one! I may end up buying one at HF.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

Check a really good auto parts store for a press

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

After a week of a tire store (with a press) holding my hubs hostage without doing anything I got them back. A neighbor rolled over his press and it easily pressed out the hub and rear wheel bearing. I gotta get me a H-F 12-ton press! Worked great. The bushing though looks a little odd and I'm not sure how to go about pressing that out? Any recommendations what to use???

Level Zero Motorsports

iTrader: (8)

Be gentle pressing the DTSS bushings in. The delrin is strong, but it's not the same as when you press a bearing in. A press can easily snap the shoulder off if too much force is applied once the bushing is in. Just go nice and slow and stop as soon a it looks like it is bottomed out.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the Tip for the new bushing. What about taking out the old bushing??? Looks like the old bushing has an outer steel cylindrical sleeve with rubber then a center sleeve for the bolt. Any tip for removal of that?

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I tried making this setup to remove the bushing and I'm afraid it might crack the aluminum. I went as tight as I could get by hand and it won't budge!

Level Zero Motorsports

iTrader: (8)

We have a specific socket that we use. It just happens to be the perfect size to press on the steel sleeve with the hydraulic press.

Chances are you wont be able to do it by hand. I've seen guys do that for suspension bushings, but never steel sleeved bushings.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

I'v'e done steel sleeved bushings by hand but you'll need a better than hardware grade fine thread bolt (like a 5/8-18, grease the threads) and a lot of leverage. I would guess the 1/2-13 all-thread would break before aluminum housing but it is still a good idea to be careful.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I think you guy are right. I just used hardware on-hand and thought it may work. I'm soaking the sleeve with Deep Creep and will try again later this week. If it doesn't budge I'll just leave it be - bushing actually looks in good condition with the rubber intact and no compliance.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I pressed the rear wheel bearing in but one doesn't look right. I plan to press it back out but was wondering what causes this? If you look at the inner race lip it is sticking above the outer race on both sides??? The other bearing I pressed was flush.

Also, seems like the hubs are hard to keep level pressing in? I haven't been able to press one in because they seem to get a little cocked so I stop. Any tips?

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

You should be pressing on the outer race only. This is important.

I haven't done the ones in my RX7 yet but have done many a wheel bearing and sometimes the inner race can pull out. Usually they feel like they won't but if they do you can push them back in. My experience here is with the wheel bearing on FWD cars (Honda's).

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Yes I only used the outer race. I used the old bearing that had only the outer race (inner race pushed out with hub).