The rear Differential mount...
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The rear Differential mount...
My dad and I are replacing my differential mount today, and was wondering if you guys had any last minute tips for us. I know one trick is to drop the whole rear end assembly, I believe. Anything else would be greatly appreciated.
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do a search... lots of info posted before "front diff mount"
or are you really talking about the "rear mounts" on the diff? those never need changing... if they do. good luck LOL....
or are you really talking about the "rear mounts" on the diff? those never need changing... if they do. good luck LOL....
Last edited by Scott 89t2; 08-25-02 at 05:47 PM.
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The rear diff mounts are a sinch.. you could probly get them out without actualy droping the subfame.
the real fun is wher i am, everything is unbolted.. but because of fun ol friction it wont come off
the real fun is wher i am, everything is unbolted.. but because of fun ol friction it wont come off
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Replacement of front mount
Don't drop the whole sub-frame. Don't need to. But, what you should do is at least purchase a Haynes shop manual for reference.
But, here are the steps.
1. Just remove the lower nut & bolt to the center link and the front drivers side bolt for the sub-frame.
2. Then just simply pull the front corner of the sub-frame down until the two bolts for the front mount are accessable.
3. 17mm socket and some extensions to your ratchet, maybe a pipe onto the end of the ratchet for some leverage (those suckers are torqued on pretty darn tight).
4. There are two bolts the attach the front mount to the frame. They are the most clearly seen and are at top side by side.
5. There are 3 bolts that hold the front mount to the Diff. Two top and bottom of the mount to the rear of the, one at the bottom on the front of the mount.
6. All bolts get torqued back on between 65-77 ft. lbs.
Drive safe, drive well.
But, here are the steps.
1. Just remove the lower nut & bolt to the center link and the front drivers side bolt for the sub-frame.
2. Then just simply pull the front corner of the sub-frame down until the two bolts for the front mount are accessable.
3. 17mm socket and some extensions to your ratchet, maybe a pipe onto the end of the ratchet for some leverage (those suckers are torqued on pretty darn tight).
4. There are two bolts the attach the front mount to the frame. They are the most clearly seen and are at top side by side.
5. There are 3 bolts that hold the front mount to the Diff. Two top and bottom of the mount to the rear of the, one at the bottom on the front of the mount.
6. All bolts get torqued back on between 65-77 ft. lbs.
Drive safe, drive well.
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Huh? How the heck do you get the rear diff mounts out without dropping the subframe?
They aren't hard, don't get me wrong, but getting them out while the subframe and diff are still in the car sounds like an exercise in frustration.
basically, they're the same as the subframe mounts, I used a hammer and chisle to pound up on the lips of the bushings, and out they came. Going back in is a cinch with a vice or press.
Paul
They aren't hard, don't get me wrong, but getting them out while the subframe and diff are still in the car sounds like an exercise in frustration.
basically, they're the same as the subframe mounts, I used a hammer and chisle to pound up on the lips of the bushings, and out they came. Going back in is a cinch with a vice or press.
Paul
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Sorry rx7fc, was replying to someone else. The front diff mount procedure has been amply covered in other posts on the board, I recommend using search to find more info.
PaulC
PaulC
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I believe the work at hand is the front Diff mount
A couple of things I forgot to mention:
1. Buy some rust knocker spray and drench the 5 bolts about 15 minutes before you attempt to remove them. This and the pipe extension for the ratchet should get them loose without obtaining muscle strain. Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey.
2. Whether you tilt of drop the rear subframe, your messing with it's geometry. So, you'll probably want to have the rear toe reset afterward.
If it's the rear mounts (the doughnuts that hold up each ear), that is one of the easiest things to do providing you have good extensions. Take one bolt out and replace each doughnut one at a time.
If its the Diff bushings (in each ear of the 3rd member) then you'll need to drop the entire differential (3rd member) as the bushings are pressed in. This means you'll need to remove the Y exhaust pipe, disconnect the driveaxle. Support the 3rd member with a hydrolic jack, remove the bolts in each ear after the removing two front bolts for the front mount. While one of you are pushing up moving the two bolts out of the guide on the front of the diff, push toward the rear as you lower the jack.
Installation is the reverse order.
1. Buy some rust knocker spray and drench the 5 bolts about 15 minutes before you attempt to remove them. This and the pipe extension for the ratchet should get them loose without obtaining muscle strain. Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey.
2. Whether you tilt of drop the rear subframe, your messing with it's geometry. So, you'll probably want to have the rear toe reset afterward.
If it's the rear mounts (the doughnuts that hold up each ear), that is one of the easiest things to do providing you have good extensions. Take one bolt out and replace each doughnut one at a time.
If its the Diff bushings (in each ear of the 3rd member) then you'll need to drop the entire differential (3rd member) as the bushings are pressed in. This means you'll need to remove the Y exhaust pipe, disconnect the driveaxle. Support the 3rd member with a hydrolic jack, remove the bolts in each ear after the removing two front bolts for the front mount. While one of you are pushing up moving the two bolts out of the guide on the front of the diff, push toward the rear as you lower the jack.
Installation is the reverse order.
Last edited by HOZZMANRX7; 08-26-02 at 12:34 AM.