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Rear Diff mount....

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Old 11-02-06, 11:29 PM
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Rear Diff mount....

ok so i think my diff mount went out, every time i shift the car makes a loud "THUMP" from the rear, does that mean its time for a new one? also do they make solid diff mounts and do u recommend them? i have solid motor mounts and i personally like them since u dont really feel the vibrations anyway. but what do u guys think?
Old 11-02-06, 11:53 PM
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well its your FRONT diff. mount the one you gonna have to change. and theres no solid option for that , just only one called competition mount with stiffer rubber, that mazdatrix sells. And its cheaper than the normal front diff. mount.

and of course you can also change your rear diff. mount for the ones that you like if you are drooping the rear subframe.
Old 11-02-06, 11:59 PM
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yes your rear diff mount probly broke. i dont know where they make solid rear diff mounts but i hurd that after a while it could damge your rear diff. mazda tricks sells a Competition rubber mount. oh yeah befor i for get its your front rear diff mount mostly. thats what happend to me. any ways heres the sight for the diff mount http://mazdatrix.com/g8.htm thats what i have bought and i havent had any problems at all.
Old 11-03-06, 12:03 AM
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darn while i looked it up that guy told you hahaha
Old 11-03-06, 12:18 AM
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solid diff mounts are homemade.
Old 11-03-06, 12:21 AM
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ok lso ive never even thought about changin the mount so on a 1-10 scale how hard would you say this would take? and how long?
Old 11-03-06, 12:45 AM
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it's a pain to do it, and leave the diff attached to the car. First time it took me 3 hrs.
Old 11-03-06, 12:55 AM
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I dropped the whole rear subframe, took about 4-5 hrs
Old 11-03-06, 05:53 AM
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to make a solid rear diff mount you can get a good used normal mount, cut mild steel to fit the inside part of the mount were the rubber goes ( do not remove the rubber) and weld the steel in place.
Old 11-03-06, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by fc3sfreek
ok lso ive never even thought about changin the mount so on a 1-10 scale how hard would you say this would take? and how long?
Get the car on a lift. Spray a good amount of PB Buster on all of the mount nuts. Support the crossmember with a tall jack. Remove the front cossmember front mount nuts and the bolt holding the sub lower arm link to the crossmember. Lower the cossmember until the end of the front crossmember mount studs are flush with the front mounts. This will give you enough room to get a swivel head 17mm socket in there. Sometimes the studs will come out of the diff rather than just the nuts. You are lucky if they do as this will ease the installation of the new mount. You will need a second hand to push the front nose of the diff up to ease in getting a few loose. Reverse order for assembly. With a lift it shouldn't take more than 1.5 to 2.0 hours your first time.

Last edited by JBrotor; 11-03-06 at 10:39 AM.
Old 11-03-06, 11:09 AM
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i droped the whole sub frame evry thing went alrignt exceprt getting the subframe back on to tho's 2 bolts. when we took it off it swang backwards. we didnt think of it at the time. but when we tried to put it back on we had to use a come along to get it back in to the bolts. it took us about 3-4 hours probly as a whole it depends on the rating on 1-10 if we didnt have the comealong i dont know what i would have done. i would say any were between 6-8 skill level and how mechanicly accline you are. and yes it was kinda a pain. depending on how much a local shop could do it for i would look around. if not then go for it.
Old 11-14-06, 12:39 AM
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i see on mazdatrix it says "2 needed per car" so does that mean i need to buy 2 of the front diff mounts??
Old 11-14-06, 01:19 AM
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the diff has one front mount and two rear mounts
Old 11-14-06, 02:04 AM
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I bought a couple of solid front diff mounts (steel) from "Scalliwag" a couple of years ago. I thought they worked great. The first time it took me 2 hours to install, then after that it only took me less than 30 minutes to install the other 2 I changed. (Whatever happened to "Scalliwag" anyway???)
Old 11-14-06, 06:53 AM
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Well there is another post pertaining to this same dilema. My front diff mount is broken as well (wasnt broken when i took it to a shop, when i got it back **** was broken).

Now i know that the Competition one that mazdatrix sells is more stiffer, but does that make it better. Sometimes its okay to have a lil bit of flexibility as to not transmit vibration to other parts.

I called up mazdatrix and they recommeneded that i get the stock one if i wasnt going to be doing any racing. But from time to time i like to take the rex out and beat on her, do some donuts, burnouts etc.

So besides price whats is the true advantages of getting the Competition one.

It is harder to install the COMP (as i been told) versus the stock, or are people just complaining too much.

Thanks in advanced

Jason NYC
Old 11-15-06, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by drewl
the diff has one front mount and two rear mounts
u sure its not the other way around? the round mount is the one im reffering to, do i need one or 2?
Old 11-15-06, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by fc3sfreek
u sure its not the other way around? the round mount is the one im reffering to, do i need one or 2?
There are 2 round rear diff. mounts and one square front diff. mount.
Old 11-15-06, 06:25 AM
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the front mount is where #6 points, this is probably what you broke.

the rear mounts are where #7 points (one of which is unlabeled, it's on the opposite (passenger) side of the symmetrical diff housing)

hopefully that clears it up.

Also, keep in mind, if you go to a custom made solid front diff mount, it makes the whole subframe and diff assembly rigid, meaning you will no longer be able to adjust the rear camber with an adjustable camber link, and if the mount is not quite right, the stock camber link may not even be the correct length to go on. The flex of the stock differential is what permits some camber compliance provided by the rubber bushings in the camber link... good or bad, is up for debate.... I'd rather have a rigid mount with a bearing where the rubber block is, and an adjustable camber link, personally.
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