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Rear Camber Link Bar

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Old 04-05-02, 10:24 AM
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Rear Camber Link Bar

88 RX7
Using the camber link from K2rd.com

When installing the link bar, is there anything special i should do? This is my first time doing this. Anything i should i be aware of before i take off the old rear link?? What happens when i disconnect it, or what i should do to make it easier for me to remove it???? This is the only thing left for me to do, and i want to make it as quick as possible and also painless . Thx.


LoS
Old 04-05-02, 11:09 AM
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The old bar will come off easy if it's not rusted. Mine came off in a minute or two. The hard part is getting your hands up in there. You will need a long extension to work with the top bolt. When you take the old one out the rear will fall slightly; like an inch. So when you put the new one in just open it up all the way and it should reach. You will want to make the bar longer to reduce negative camber and shorter the increase the negative camber. Mine is almost all the way open. I'm guessing I only have 4 or 5 threads holding the ends on. But as far as I can tell that bar does not have to deal with too much stress so a few threads should hold up just fine. You should probably have the rear end aligned after you're done.

Oh! I have the mazdatrix one that can be adjusted on the car. I'm not sure if yours can do that. If not you will need to take the bottom bolt off to adjust it.
Old 04-05-02, 11:20 AM
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It's a basic removal and replace.&nbsp It helps to have small hands or serious dexterity, as replacing the TOP bolt and nut is a royal pain in the ***!

You also want to shorten the rod as much as possible WITHOUT having the front pivot points hit the underneath of the chassis.&nbsp This is pretty hard to describe, as you need to be under the car staring at the rear sub chassis to understand.&nbsp If follow the sub chassis to the very front most areas, there are two mount points on short "rods" that mount to the rest of the car.&nbsp These will collapse when you shorten the rear camber adjust rod - make sure the front of the rear sub chassis does HIT the underneath of the car, as you're going to have nasty banging noises when you go over bumps!


-Ted
Old 04-05-02, 11:37 AM
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Ted are you saying that making the bar shorter will reduce negative camber? I remember it being the other way. I thought that making it shorter would reduce the negative camber so that is how I set it first; then I dropped the car off the rack and the rears looked like the fronts on a slammed civic. So I raised it back up and made the bar longer and dropped her back down and the rears seem to be perfectly straight. My car is lowered about 1.5 all around with coil-overs if that makes a difference.

The main point is wheather or not making the bar longer or shorter increases or decreases rear camber>
Old 04-05-02, 11:41 AM
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In my experience, shortening the rod increases + camber, decrease - camber.&nbsp The shortened rod collapses the rear subframe assembly, which ends up tucking in the hubs at the bottom.


-Ted
Old 04-05-02, 11:44 AM
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Maybe I am thinking backwards. If it were anyone else, I would fight to the end; but you are a reliable source.
Old 04-05-02, 11:47 AM
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Hey, whatever works!&nbsp I'm not denying your claim - I was just posted what I had to do with my car with the rear camber bar I purchased.

Maybe there's an alternate method to adjusting camber in the rear?


-Ted
Old 04-05-02, 12:03 PM
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I'll check mine when I get home. I'm guessing it must be one way or the other. If the work is being done as we speak just use Ted's method and if it happens to be the other way just do the opposite. You will deffinitely be able to tell when you get the car on the ground. The top of my rear tires must have been two inches inside the bottoms.
Old 04-05-02, 12:19 PM
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Shorten the link = more positive camber (or less negative).

A tip for that top bolt - remove the left rear wheel, and put together about 3 feet of extensions on your ratchet. You'll be able to reach the nut through the wheelwell easily.

good luck
Curtis
Old 04-05-02, 12:21 PM
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Originally posted by slvr7
[B]A tip for that top bolt - remove the left rear wheel, and put together about 3 feet of extensions on your ratchet. You'll be able to reach the nut through the wheelwell easily.[B]
****, wish I knew that when I installed mine!

I got a 3 foot Snap-On extension just for the downpipe!



-Ted
Old 04-06-02, 01:44 AM
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Thx guys for the info. I left the camber kit the same length as the stock link, because im bringing the car into a shop thats going to do the hole alignment process. I have no time to adjust anything, and also my jack is fucked up and only lifts the car up to a foot. But thx for all the input.
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