I was thinking about getting the adjustable camber rod, but I was thinking my delrin subframe bushings are so stiff, that rod isn't going to do much. Anyone have solid subframe mounts and still use teh adjustable camber rod with success?

 

i been curious how that works, doesnt the camber rod change the angle of the rear diff, resulting in change of camber?

 

I've heard of people having problems with that, but I've also heard of people having no problems. I would expect it to be harder to adjust and you may not get as much range with it compared to stock subframe bushings.

 

You could also get the individual camber adjusters, but you may run into problems if you're using stiffer bushings.

 

THanks Black91, I know I've talked with you about this a while ago. I've been out of the scene for a while working, girls, partying. My car is pretty much how I left it, but I really want to make an effort to get her back on the road.

I bought one of those rear camber adjusters where you have to unbolt it first, I'm really debating if I should get one that is adjustable on car. I don't have a ton of money. Most of my income goes to the Snap-on guy.

Even if I get the one that is adjustable on car, I'm wondering how the stress would be on that bar. I would hate for the mounting tabs to break or bend, or oval out the hole. I don't want individual adjusters because of the binding issues.

 

How are those individual adjutsters with the rubber bushings? Which bushings would you recomend? I don't have enough money for spherical bearings. RIght now my control arm bushings are polyurethane

 

Especially in your case I'd advise getting one that's adjustable on the car, since if you have to adjust it much, it'd probably be a bear to get bolted back up again (jacking the subframe would help). But since you say you've got one already, I'd just stick with it unless there's something wrong with it.

With rubber bushings, those individual adjusters aren't bad, but I wouldn't reccomend adjusting them very far from stock, ideally they should only be used to even out the camber when bushings are used. With poly, I'd be a bit hesitant and very careful about using them. With Delrin or similiar I'd never advise their use. I had poly bushings ready to go in, but kept it stock because of this issue. Eventually I'll probably get spherical bearings.

 

For the on-car adjustable center link, Ground Control sells a decently priced one. I have that one on my car. I've held off on stiffer bushings because I needed the ease/range of adjustment. Spherical bearings will find their way to me soon enough.

 

If I went with spherical bearings, would I be able to still keep the factory toe adjustment using the eccentric bolt? I don't have enough money to buy the aftermarket rods to adjust toe

 

I think you can, they suck at holding their settings though. The AWR spherical bearings come with pieces that eliminate the eccentric adjustment but I'm pretty sure using them is optional if you don't have the toe links. The AWR bearings are $199 and the MMR ones are $160. If you're gonna have the whole rear apart you may as well bite the bullet and get the bearings now so you don't have to take everything apart again.

http://mmr-direct.com/

http://www.awrracing.com/index.php

 

Good looking out. I'm interested in AWR their camber/castor plates. I'll have to measure the shaft on the kyb agx's I have though.