eage8

iTrader: (9)

My rear camber on my TII is a bit ridiculous. It's somewhere in the range of -3.5 degrees.

I was planning on getting one of the adjustable links on mazdatrix that you don't have to take off to adjust, but I was reading racingbeat's site and it says it only adjusts .6 degrees of negative camber out and if you mod the sub-frame you might be able to get 1.2 degrees out...

I'm aware of the AWR units, but before I heard they're really only good for fine adjustments to match both sides of the vehicle.

I was wondering if other people here have had similair experiences and how they got the rest of the camber out. I would be happy if I was at around 1 degree of negative camber in the rear.

Thanks

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Is this vehicle lowered or just worn out? 3.5 is a lot, it sounds like something else is wrong.

jjwalker

MY vert isn't all worn out and yet it has some visible camber in the rear. Don't know how much in degrees though.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

hey man, long time no chillin...is your car lowered? I have the RB adjustable link and it is nice. Pricey but nice.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

do u have the websitelink to where it says that on racingbeat? i cant find it on their site, *their site layout sucks, i bet they could get alot more online orders wiht a nicer site*.

My friend has one of those adjustable links but yet to install it, says need to drop the sub frame and or diff to install it.

My guess is that its not ideal to use it too extreme because it binds from what i read somewhere.

So far this is the most aggressive setup ive seen yet check it out , i think they talk about it
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index....2422#msg132422

cmanns

Dang how lower is your car o.o

clandestine

here some specs that might help you out:

Racing Beat Rear Camber Adjuster Rod

Rear Left Initial: -2.5 Final: -1.4
Rear Right Initial: -2.8 Final: -1.5

KTS SC Damper Coilovers
Lowered to half a finger.

Cheers

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

what do you mean by lowered to half a finger?

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

No.

Your friend needs to put a jack under the subframe to support it, take the 17mm bolts off and remove the stock link and put the aftermarket one in.

Easy as that.

I put mine in like 2 weeks ago or something like that.

Fucked my fingers all up when the wrench slipped and sent my fingers into the stub shafts....

FHI: He should adjust that OFF the car..... I dont see how in the hell you could adjust the upper part of it on the car. There's too much **** in the way. Plus, when you loosen the lock nut, it's probably going to "break away" unexpectedly.


I had about 3-4* negative camber to start off with (my car is SLAMMED). One side of my arm is frozen....seller probably didn't know. No big deal. It's threaded in probably half way. The other side is threaded in all the way. Brought it back to around 1.5-1* That's just eyeballing it though. It drastically took the camber out of my car. Binding will occur if you DO go to crazy with it so i guess it's a good thing that one side of the arm was frozen..... You know, this camber issue we have could probably be fixed even more if someone were to make an adjustable billet rear carrier assembly. *hint*

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

imma bet that the mazdatrix and tcsportline link is the same



I wonder if their heim joints are automotive grade..

edit nvm: look simular, but the mazdatrix probably has the better heim joint

eage8

iTrader: (9)

thanks guys.

my FC is lowered a decent amount, I Wouldn't really call it "slammed" though.



I'm pretty sure the TCS is the same exact bar that mazdatrix sells. They sell their strut bars too and say they really like them. I probably get that and save $50

this is the bar from RB and where it says only .6 degrees: http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=14008

I'll order a bar today sometime and install it and then go for another alignment and see how much I can take out.

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

Ground control sells one for ~$105.00 shipped. You dont have to remove the bar to adjust it either. Looks like the anodized one that mazdatrix sells.

When i install mine it took a good amount out, but I have no clue how many degrees.


edit: http://www.ground-control-store.com/...p/II=156/CA=87

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

i just gave in and ordered one of those links

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

The links that you guys are looking at do very little for major amounts of negative camber. These are the ones you want if you want total control of your rear camber...
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...um=86-01-E015L
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...um=86-01-E015R

Both of these are found at the bottom of this page.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm


I bought the subframe link at first and it did not adjust both sides equaly nor did it adjust near enough. I then purchased the links I posted above and I have total control now.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

from what I've heard you want you use the rear link to get your rear camber close and then use the smaller ones to even out from side to side from there.

I've heard the AWR pieces are very easy to bind the bushings in the control arms with if you try to dial too much out.

after I install my bar I'll see how different the side's are and if they're really that different I'll get some AWR adjusters too.

those are also cheaper from AWRs website:
http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=80

WingsofWar

lol you would

NMJ87T2

iTrader: (8)

I have not had any issues with binding. I have poly bushings everywhere though. Maybe with worn out stock bushings you would have issues.

With the subframe link adjustment the left side began going back positive, so I backed it off and left it alone.

Driftin86FC

i have the tcsporline camber arm and i have no complaints.... i did it to increase negative camber though... im running -3.2

eage8

iTrader: (9)

why? you can't have very good traction... or was that the point.

Driftin86FC

hehe

slpin

iTrader: (9)

-2 front... -2.2 back

mazdatrix remove to adjust bar.... figure that way if the lock nut is off it still holds its position.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Ground control has an on car adjustable one for 80 something bucks.

cmanns

Looks about a half inch lower then mine on stock 17yr old suspen

I wonder how much camber I got around

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Remember the subframe link is nearly useless if you have soild subframe bushings. Get the individual adjusters, they are not much more expensive.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

Most people drive their rx-7s around on the street so the solid sub-frame bushings really aren't a good idea.

bottom line the best set up is to have both, if you don't have solid sub-frame bushings, so that's what I'll do if the single link isn't enough.