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Rear camber

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Old 04-10-09, 09:44 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by eage8
Most people drive their rx-7s around on the street so the solid sub-frame bushings really aren't a good idea.

bottom line the best set up is to have both, if you don't have solid sub-frame bushings, so that's what I'll do if the single link isn't enough.
Soild UHMW subframe bushings are fine on the street.

You are right, the best setup is to use both.
Old 04-10-09, 07:34 PM
  #27  
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ok the tcsportline link came in today. Heim Joint says "BSA NOS14 JAPAN". Anyone know about heim joints? just wanna make sure these joints are vehicle worthy, and not typical aircraft spec ones that the earlier ebay brands where using which would eventually break.
Old 04-11-09, 06:08 PM
  #28  
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shoulda just waited out and got the camber adjusters from http://www.mmr-direct.com/ for $125, not a bad price. oh well.. work with what I gots. I would like to get those subframe spacers int he future but probably wont work with the camber link i got.. so will swap stuff out later when i getz hardcore.
Old 04-11-09, 06:26 PM
  #29  
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keep us updated im on the same boat as well, my rear camber -2.5 on one side and -3.0 on the other.
i wanna bring it down to bout -1.5
Old 04-18-09, 06:45 PM
  #30  
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any use the MMR ones yet?
Old 04-20-09, 06:29 PM
  #31  
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i ordered a set of MMR. ill post before and after when i get them
Old 04-27-09, 02:38 AM
  #32  
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I just installed my RB Camber Bar today. I maxed out the settings (shortened the bar) and I still have negative camber remaining. =[

But it did a good job of taking a lot out.

ANYWAYs: What the hell does it mean to bind? I.E. binding the U-joints or bushings or something.

And is there any danger in maxing the setting? like there is straight up no more thread showing on the bar itself. I checked the subframe and its not scraping on any other part of the vehicle like the Racing Beat manual said it might. I don't see any danger, I drove on it for about a half mile and nothing queer came up, with no unusual sounds.
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