Well during this last whole week i've been rebuilding my rear calipers since when i bought the car the one was leaking and pedel went straight to the floor.

Anyhow i bought a kit from Mazda and came with a new spring and big plastic round dust cover for the piston, also the inner seal for the piston... I put those on and totally forgot about this other tiny circle piece with rubber inside.
Well went to bleed the brakes today and couldn't figure out why it wasn't feeling hard. Well went to check out the rear and found a huge puddle of break fluid.


Well when i went to take a closer look at it, it was leaking right below where the E-brake attaches. I'm guessing this is where this small rubber piece fits in.

So tomorrow im going to take off the E-brake cable but as for the next step i don't have a clue what to do.
After i take off the E-brake line there are some springs to the left of it or just below. Will these pop right off after and maybe alow me to replace some sort of seal inside there?
Wondering if you guy's could tell me what to take off, or where it's leaking from back there.

Thanks

 

Uh, I did the rebuild but I left the parking brake alone. Just did the piston seal and piston boot.

James

 

Sounds like your talking about the Ebrake operating lever boot.

Sounds like the rubber O ring that goes on the e-brake adjuster spindle is shot and pressure is leaking into the Ebrake's needle bearing chamber.

The brake fluid has probably eaten all the greese in the e-brakes needle bearings. You'll need to re-pack the needle bearings now. To access these, you'll need to remove the piston, adjuster spindle, and connecting link/pellet. Then the Operating lever should pop off without the need to remove the Operating Lever/handle.

Your brake rebuild kit should have come with new O rings for the Adjuster Spindle to prevent further seepage. Plus the rebuild kit should have a new ebrake lever boot/dust cover.

Also note the Left Operating Lever is stamped right, and the right one is stamped left. When you pull the caliper apaprt be sure to verify what's marks on the caliper housing (right/left) and operating lever (right left). If you get it backwards, the ebrake won't work right.

Also when you go to put calipers back on the car, be sure the pistons are turned correctly to slide over the notch on the pads. Otherwise you'll wonder why the operating lever won't push back enough to get the ebrake cable over it. Finally be sure to use the supplied greese in the rebuild kit where necessary.

I'm assuming you already hoaned out the piston chambers too.


I like pictures, their pretty:

 

#17 on that kit is the one thats left over from the kit.
I sure hope i do not have to pull the whole piston out again as that will be a very big pain.
Will this part # 17 stop my caliper from leaking?

 

No the lever boot only keeps dirt from getting in. Your leak is due to the rubber o-ring on the adjuster spindle (part 9) being shot. The o-ring keeps the brake fluid pressure from seeping into the e-brake portion of the rear calipers.

 

Ok well my caliper rebuild kit did not come with this part.... It did come with part # 11
What should i do?
I think its time to almost just buy a brand new caliper from the dealership or something...

Anyone have any suggestions on what i can do?

 

The O-ring (part 11) goes on the adjuster spindle (part 9). Are you saying it was still leaking from the operating lever/ebrake connector after you changed the o-ring on the adjuster spindle & re-assembled the caliper ? It's physically impossible for fluid to leak into the e-brake section of the caliper if the O ring is good and the adjuster spindle with o-ring installed pops into the back of the rear of the piston chamber.

 

Ok Thanks vaughnc... I will replace that 0-Ring tomorrow.
Now i am trying to replace part #17. In order to replace it i am trying to take off part #16. I have got the nut off, washer and return spring. Still having troubles getting that operating lever out. Does it screw out? or how does it come out?

Thanks

 

NM

 

The only thing that holds the operating lever (16) & adjuster spindle (9) is that little connecting link pill (12). Once you pull the operating lever & connecting link out of the piston chamber, the adjuster spinder should pop right out of the e-brake side and then the needle bearings (18) and boot (17) should pull out.

 

V,

Your knowledge on this has inspired me to attempt this myself. However, it might be the > $120 that is wanted for a rebuilt part vs < $20 for the rebuild kit that is truely inspiring me!

I found this kit for $13.95 at Auto parts warehouse:
http://replacement.autopartswarehous...%20Kit&dp=true

(sorry, I do not know how to make hyperlinks in this forum)

Can anyone tell me if there is something missing? Mazdatrix makes you buy two kits and my left rear brake is working just fine.