Is there some Trick or Special Voodoo dance ive gotta do to get the E-Break Caliper to Completely Retract?.
It needs new pads and I sat there for a little over an Hour with a Large C Clamp trying to Get it to go back in... it looks like its half way in, Ebreak Line removed, with the C Clamp Applied it Has ALLOT of pressure on the Ebreak line valve thing. with it released it moves freely, I tryd opening the Bleeders on both that were on there. did nothing...
HELP PLEASE v.v; i dont want to buy new ones

 

The rear pistons do not get squeezed into the caliper, they get turned in. See the 4 notches on the piston, it's to accept a tool that turns them in. I have the entire set of adapters, but I guess you might be able to use needle nosed plies, and some parts store has the loaner tool.

 

-_- Are you Serious?

 

the rear BRAKES, like any other car that uses the caliper as the emergency BRAKE, requires the piston to be turned clockwise in order to retract back into the caliper.

 

well..... i feel stupid -_- Thanks though

 

I know there's a special tool, but I've always just used some heavy duty needle nose pliers.

 

pain in the ***/involves cursing and busted knuckles

easier

easiest


you're likely to puncture the piston skirt that seals out dirt and moisture using needle nose pliers. not worth it.

and for god's sake buy a haynes manual it's ok to not know how to do something!

 

Rented the Tool from Autozone, Worked like a charm THANKS!

 

I had that square thing in my hands today. I'll go back and buy one in about two weeks.

I ran out of my car fund cash (aka) tax return.

Is everyone's brakes screwing up? ****.

I ended up buying a front and rear rebuild kit from atkins and hope it resolves my issues. My calipers dont retract at all and my system has full pressure. No kinked/clogged lines, nothing.


AND for anyone reading this thread in the future, needle nose pliers SUCK for this task and you need a really, really steady hand to avoid hurting yourself or the car.

 

lol i needt o buy one of these tools.... or renting it is a great idea for next time.

 

That tool costs like $7 at PepBoys, why bother renting.
Keep it in your toolbox and impress chicks.

 

a pair of mechanics glove is what you need

 

Don't feel bad as I've had people actualy brake the caliper when trying to push the piston back in to the bore, when it should be turned.

 

there are actually 3 different types of rear brake setups.
1) high lead screw- which is what ours are, there is a screw that has very steep pitch, as the parking brake is applied, the screw turns, causing the piston to be manually applied. to fully retract the piston, it must be turned
2) ball in ramp- as the parking brake is engaged, it generates an axial force while rotating, presses pads against a disk plate during parking braking, ***** provided between input and output ramps of the cartridge assembly move along variable trajectories gradually decreased in a radial direction and increase a force. which pushes the pads against the rotors
3) full hydrolic- uses the brake fluid and one way check valves to retain internal pressure, causing the pads to push against the rotors

so, in a high-lead screw type, you have to screw the piston into the bore, while applying enough pressure to follow the pitch of the screw
a ball and ramp you dont need to twist it, just push it in
and the hydro is the same as the ball and ramp

have fun

Lloyd

 

Where did you find this and who makes it? I like.

 

My set is from Mac tools, but here is an inexpensive set:
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-D.../dp/B000IB40L6

 

Breaks are all in, Ebreak Still works, Break systems a tad soft now... but it works well

 

better bled your brakes to firm them back up, air in the lines suck! and you know that the rear calipers are not for the ebrake only right? when ever you hit the brake pedal fluid is sent to the brake calipers at all four wheels, but the ebrake also operates the rear calipers with the e brake cables. I mean I assume every one here knows that, but some of the wording at the top of this thread was little iffy.

 

well i took it next door to the break Shop to have it put onto some machine that Bled the System all 4 at the same time. I didnt over see the operation, but ill have them check it anyway.

And yes i should of had them do all the pads and rotors wile i was there... but i was doing it on a tight Budget -_- and allot shops around here like to rip people off... like i dont know.. 80 bux for the Break hardware.. the little Metal Springs that push the pads off the rotor ( they are installed ) Or 500 Bux for headlight fluid! good stuff