Rear brakes not grabbing the whole rotor?
#1
Rear brakes not grabbing the whole rotor?
OK so ive added a 1st grade paint drawing of what my brakes are doing...the black is the hub where the lug studs are and the brown is the rusted inside part of my rear brake rotors where the pads arent catching and the gray is the good part of the rotor where the pads are touching....car stops fine has new pads and has been bleed...what could be causing this...i searched to no avail and im no expert in brakes...
#7
Pabs
iTrader: (1)
check the rotors then.
ha i somehow missed that you said that you had new pads in your original post.
the rotors might be worn down which means you have to get them machined, or new ones.
there is a possibility of something being wrong with the caliper but i don't have any idea on how to check those.
ha i somehow missed that you said that you had new pads in your original post.
the rotors might be worn down which means you have to get them machined, or new ones.
there is a possibility of something being wrong with the caliper but i don't have any idea on how to check those.
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#12
Cake or Death?
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When I replaced all my rotors I was surprised to find that the vented rear disks were substantially cheaper than the solid ones.
Made no sense but was consistent among several vendors (NAPA, Autozone, etc).
Even Mazdatrix's aftermarket disks show this difference- it's not as much but they're in the $70 range and I wanted cheaper.
Ultimately I scored a set of vented disk rear calipers from the junkyard ($10 apiece), rebuilt them and bought new vented disks from NAPA. IIRC, this worked out to be about the same as buying the solid disks and keeping my old calipers.
Thought it was weird then and still do.
Made no sense but was consistent among several vendors (NAPA, Autozone, etc).
Even Mazdatrix's aftermarket disks show this difference- it's not as much but they're in the $70 range and I wanted cheaper.
Ultimately I scored a set of vented disk rear calipers from the junkyard ($10 apiece), rebuilt them and bought new vented disks from NAPA. IIRC, this worked out to be about the same as buying the solid disks and keeping my old calipers.
Thought it was weird then and still do.
#14
I'm too old for this *%*!
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OK so ive added a 1st grade paint drawing of what my brakes are doing...the black is the hub where the lug studs are and the brown is the rusted inside part of my rear brake rotors where the pads arent catching and the gray is the good part of the rotor where the pads are touching....car stops fine has new pads and has been bleed...what could be causing this...i searched to no avail and im no expert in brakes...
Seemed curious to me that it would come out that way, but I just wrote it off as their attempt at refining front/rear brake balance. Anyway, the brakes work great now, so I'm over it.
Good luck with it,
rootsgroup
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I'm too old for this *%*!
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Maybe I didn't explain it right, I'll try again...
The clean part of the rotor is the part that the pad contacts. That's all the wider that the pad is. Why the pad isn't made wide enough to rub the full width is beyond me, unless it's just to let the rears not grab quite as hard, maybe an attempt to alter front/rear bias or something.
On my car, I'm not worrying about it. On your car, you can make your own choice.
That's the beauty of car ownership.
rootsgroup
The clean part of the rotor is the part that the pad contacts. That's all the wider that the pad is. Why the pad isn't made wide enough to rub the full width is beyond me, unless it's just to let the rears not grab quite as hard, maybe an attempt to alter front/rear bias or something.
On my car, I'm not worrying about it. On your car, you can make your own choice.
That's the beauty of car ownership.
rootsgroup
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