2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Rear Brake Calipers?

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Old May 29, 2010 | 04:22 PM
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Rear Brake Calipers?

Ok I own an 86 n/a I believe part of my rear brake calipers is seized up. Ok so you take the bolt out and flip the caliper up to place the new pads in. Then your supposed to be able to flip the caliper back down and all that good stuff. My problem is that the pin the caliper pivots on to flip it up seems to be seized up. I say that because I thought this thing adjusted. I can get one pad on but the caliper gets stuck on the outside pad. Obviously something needs adjusting. I turned the piston all the way in and nothing else is in the way.

Is'nt that pin supposed to move in or out or turn for me to make brake adjustment . Stupid question I know brakes are easy but this is dumb lol. Ive looked at the schematics and I don't even see this pin in the pictures. I've rebuilt the engine and a bunch of other stuff on this car but this is just stupid lol.
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Old May 29, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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Make sure the pads are flush against the rotor, sometimes they like to slide out as you put the caliper down. Make sure the piston is all the way in and that it is aligned correctly (the holes you use to turn it back in should be at 90 and 270)
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Old May 29, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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I will check that out just to make sure like ya said thanks. There is more space on the back side of the rotor than there is for the pad on the front.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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You don't have the parking brake set, do you?

The caliper should slide smoothly on the mounting pins. If it doesn't, disassemble the whole thing and grease things with a high temp brake grease.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:52 AM
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Like Aaron said, the pin at the top of the rear caliper is probably dry and needs grease. There is a pin on the bottom on the actual caliper that can also be greased (the bolt goes through it), it is small about 2".
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Old May 30, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Ok I got the caliper to go down but a new problem has risen.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1599.flv">

Shouldn't there also be screws or bolts that hold the brake rotor on ? If so anyone know what size they are? Yeah the rotor looks rusty but I gotta go with what I got at the moment.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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There should be, but if they are missing it does not matter as the wheel will push the rotor back into position when you torque the wheel down.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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When you put the wheel on it will hold the rotor against the hub.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 12:43 AM
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Well the bolts holding the caliper on were not all the way tight in that video when they are tight the rotor don't move at all like its being pinched. Won't I bend or break somthing if I try to use the tire to push the rotor back.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 06:04 AM
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Did you screw he caliper piston in before installing the pads?
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Old May 31, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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Yes I screwed it back in
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Old May 31, 2010 | 02:28 PM
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Well I put the tire back on I think it pushed the rotor back but still need to bleed the brakes before I know if it worked or not.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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I'd take it back apart and see what I'd done wrong.
What you're describing ain't the way it's supposed to go back together, so either you've made a mistake somewhere or have the wrong parts.

Typically, all the hard work is in removing the caliper, not putting it back on.

Did you verify that the tit on the back of the pad is seated in the piston recess?
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Old May 31, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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^ I missed that part, the OP should double check that the caliper piston hole goes into the pin on the actual brake pad, probably the reason why the rotor was not moving since the pad was pressing against it when the caliper was installed...

You have to twist the caliper piston to get it to fit the pin on the pad...
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:03 AM
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Ahh yeah didn't think of that one I will check that out tommorow. The other think I wanted to mention is that the drivers side rear always wears out first and that one of the worn pads is worn at an angle not smoothly all the way across it.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:43 AM
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The bolts are there because at the factory assembly line, they will put the rotors on first before the Caliper. So without some sort of bolts to hold the rotor in place, the rotor will fall off the assembly line.

After that point, you dont need those bolts anymore.

As the matter of fact, new rotors won't even have those holes pre-drilled from Factory

and your rotor looks pretty worn out, u might want to change it.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
As the matter of fact, new rotors won't even have those holes pre-drilled from Factory
Both of my replacement sets came with the holes.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 12:12 AM
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Well took it all apart again today I think the rotor is actually on striaght now for the first time in who knows how long. Found a bolt to bolt up the rotor and there was a gap between the brake pad arm and the hub where you bolt up the caliper behind the rotor as shown in the video well I just took and put a washer between there up top and down low and tightened it up. Everything works great now until I get the money to replace it all.
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