Reading a Turbo-compressor map!
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Reading a Turbo-compressor map!
Hi!
I need to find a turbo that fits my application. Ive been looking for a turbo giving me 400-500hp on a 13bRE engine. I dont want mutch lag so i may reduce my hp-aim?
Anyway, what can i read out the compressor map below?
Thanks,
Sindre
I need to find a turbo that fits my application. Ive been looking for a turbo giving me 400-500hp on a 13bRE engine. I dont want mutch lag so i may reduce my hp-aim?
Anyway, what can i read out the compressor map below?
Thanks,
Sindre
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okey, well i just used that compressor map so you guys could tell me what i can read from it.
I really want a gt35r turbo but i also want T4 and Vband.
What would a good 60-1 setup be? Will the turbonetics T61 turbo work okey?
The 13bRE got some nice stock ports so i wont be porting it this year if it holds together..
I also got a spare engine. Its a ported s4 t2 engine, but i cant boost mutch on it because i havnt figured out how to reinforce it..
Sindre
I really want a gt35r turbo but i also want T4 and Vband.
What would a good 60-1 setup be? Will the turbonetics T61 turbo work okey?
The 13bRE got some nice stock ports so i wont be porting it this year if it holds together..
I also got a spare engine. Its a ported s4 t2 engine, but i cant boost mutch on it because i havnt figured out how to reinforce it..
Sindre
#4
Back in the game
iTrader: (-1)
You don't need to re-inforce it from what i hear. If you are that worried you will only need a S5 rear iron.
How many people here are running turbo S4s with OVER 400HP?
There is a good thread on reading compressor maps stickied int he single turbo section.
Also you can search the archive for a good post on 60-1s.
You don't have to port, but it is nice, bigger exhaust ports will give you quicker spool and less lag.
How many people here are running turbo S4s with OVER 400HP?
There is a good thread on reading compressor maps stickied int he single turbo section.
Also you can search the archive for a good post on 60-1s.
You don't have to port, but it is nice, bigger exhaust ports will give you quicker spool and less lag.
#7
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
also, looking at the compressor map doesn't really help you out unless you have at least some idea of the volumetric efficiency of the engine. Without knowing the VE of the engine you wont be able to decide, by looking at compressor maps, which turbo really will work the best with a given engine. Anybody know of an approximate VE on a stock TII? Other than compressor maps, I'm sure there are a lot of people on the forum that will let you know how the certain sized turbo that they chose works out for them.
Trending Topics
#8
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
one good way to reinforce the engine is a good stud kit. http://www.turblown.net/ sells a 13B stud kit.
Copied from turblown.net:
-Aircraft quality forged steel
-Hot rolled threads
-195000 psi tensil strength
-No maching is required
-Works with OEM or aftermarket flywheels
-All necessary harware included
-Replaces all 16 inner tension bolts
-More accurate tensioning of engine
-Studs will not yield(stretch) like the factory bolts, which act like bubble gum - high boost engine expansion reduced
-Factory bolts twist while torquing and eventually untwist overtime
-No friction at threads from twisting, not just reducing wear of threads, but friction gives inaccurate torque readings
-Less chance of bolt breakage from vibration or high rpms
-Superior quality material
$350 shipped
Copied from turblown.net:
-Aircraft quality forged steel
-Hot rolled threads
-195000 psi tensil strength
-No maching is required
-Works with OEM or aftermarket flywheels
-All necessary harware included
-Replaces all 16 inner tension bolts
-More accurate tensioning of engine
-Studs will not yield(stretch) like the factory bolts, which act like bubble gum - high boost engine expansion reduced
-Factory bolts twist while torquing and eventually untwist overtime
-No friction at threads from twisting, not just reducing wear of threads, but friction gives inaccurate torque readings
-Less chance of bolt breakage from vibration or high rpms
-Superior quality material
$350 shipped
#9
DONT FEED THE NOOBS
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: land of slow hondas .... TULSA, OK
Posts: 1,270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TehMonkay
You don't need to re-inforce it from what i hear. If you are that worried you will only need a S5 rear iron.
How many people here are running turbo S4s with OVER 400HP?
There is a good thread on reading compressor maps stickied int he single turbo section.
Also you can search the archive for a good post on 60-1s.
You don't have to port, but it is nice, bigger exhaust ports will give you quicker spool and less lag.
How many people here are running turbo S4s with OVER 400HP?
There is a good thread on reading compressor maps stickied int he single turbo section.
Also you can search the archive for a good post on 60-1s.
You don't have to port, but it is nice, bigger exhaust ports will give you quicker spool and less lag.
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for alot of great inputs!
Ive heard that stud kits arent THAT good on a streetcar because of the temp changes.
Im looking at used turbonetics 60-1 turbos. Since im not going to pass 400rwhp this year i hope the 60-1 is big enaugh. As i got a 13bRE engine that im gonna run this year, but i also got a streetported s4 that i can use if the RE fails. Im not going to drive the car THAT mutch on the road so maybe the stud kit is the way to go.
Turbo`s ive been looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-T...90396119QQrdZ1
Where can i find good turbonetics turbos? I friend of mine told me that a 60-1 with Q trim is good enaugh for 400
Sindre
Ive heard that stud kits arent THAT good on a streetcar because of the temp changes.
Im looking at used turbonetics 60-1 turbos. Since im not going to pass 400rwhp this year i hope the 60-1 is big enaugh. As i got a 13bRE engine that im gonna run this year, but i also got a streetported s4 that i can use if the RE fails. Im not going to drive the car THAT mutch on the road so maybe the stud kit is the way to go.
Turbo`s ive been looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-T...90396119QQrdZ1
Where can i find good turbonetics turbos? I friend of mine told me that a 60-1 with Q trim is good enaugh for 400
Sindre
#14
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SAN ANTONIO
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://forcedinductions.com/help.htm gives you cfm of lots of turbos and the 79 ci 13 b this might help a lil but i wish i had somtthing like this chart for a ported motor
#15
Alcohol Fueled!
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Sindregutt
Thanks for alot of great inputs!
Ive heard that stud kits arent THAT good on a streetcar because of the temp changes.
Im looking at used turbonetics 60-1 turbos. Since im not going to pass 400rwhp this year i hope the 60-1 is big enaugh. As i got a 13bRE engine that im gonna run this year, but i also got a streetported s4 that i can use if the RE fails. Im not going to drive the car THAT mutch on the road so maybe the stud kit is the way to go.
Turbo`s ive been looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-T...90396119QQrdZ1
Where can i find good turbonetics turbos? I friend of mine told me that a 60-1 with Q trim is good enaugh for 400
Sindre
Ive heard that stud kits arent THAT good on a streetcar because of the temp changes.
Im looking at used turbonetics 60-1 turbos. Since im not going to pass 400rwhp this year i hope the 60-1 is big enaugh. As i got a 13bRE engine that im gonna run this year, but i also got a streetported s4 that i can use if the RE fails. Im not going to drive the car THAT mutch on the road so maybe the stud kit is the way to go.
Turbo`s ive been looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-T...90396119QQrdZ1
Where can i find good turbonetics turbos? I friend of mine told me that a 60-1 with Q trim is good enaugh for 400
Sindre
I am guessing that its a 62-1 compressor which will get you over 400, and is alot similar to the turbo I am running.
#16
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SAN ANTONIO
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
and who wouldnt want 400 or more whp . Thats awsome self control . j- rat said his blowzilla ran out of steam so i had to go out and get a mp t70 and my cars not even together yet
-Jarrett
-Jarrett
#22
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if i go for a 60-1 ill maybe hit 350rwhp with my setup. I was going to buy the gt35r but i dont know if ill do it since i aint got the time to rebuild and port the 13bRE engine.
Is this an okey setup?
Turbonetics 60-1
Dynamic seal
60-1/62-1 (havnt decided yet) ?
q-trim
.96 ar tang open (what is the difference from on center / tangential exhaust?)
No BB :S
Sindre
Is this an okey setup?
Turbonetics 60-1
Dynamic seal
60-1/62-1 (havnt decided yet) ?
q-trim
.96 ar tang open (what is the difference from on center / tangential exhaust?)
No BB :S
Sindre
#23
Alcohol Fueled!
iTrader: (2)
sure! that 60-1 makes a fine street turbo. It should be able to hit 350 for you.
On center vs. tang:
The difference is the way that they mount in the engine compartment and the manner in which the exhaust is evacuated from the housing. The "on-center" uses a standard T4 inlet flange, as well as a four-bolt discharge flange. The reason that it is called on-center is just that, the housing sits right on top of the inlet flange.
The "tangential" turbine housing differs both in form and function. The housing sits off to one side, similar to that of a snail shell. The other difference is that to connect an exhaust down-pipe, a V-Band flange-and-clamp assembly must be used. This setup sometimes proves to be more convenient for race applications. The "tang" housings are 4 to 5 percent more efficient in flow. Neither the "on-center" nor "tangential" perform better than the other. The decision to use one over the other should depend completely upon the installation of the turbos in the engine compartment.
On center vs. tang:
The difference is the way that they mount in the engine compartment and the manner in which the exhaust is evacuated from the housing. The "on-center" uses a standard T4 inlet flange, as well as a four-bolt discharge flange. The reason that it is called on-center is just that, the housing sits right on top of the inlet flange.
The "tangential" turbine housing differs both in form and function. The housing sits off to one side, similar to that of a snail shell. The other difference is that to connect an exhaust down-pipe, a V-Band flange-and-clamp assembly must be used. This setup sometimes proves to be more convenient for race applications. The "tang" housings are 4 to 5 percent more efficient in flow. Neither the "on-center" nor "tangential" perform better than the other. The decision to use one over the other should depend completely upon the installation of the turbos in the engine compartment.
#25
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Btw, is it stupid to buy a divided tang when i aint got a divided manifold? I was just thinking it would be smart to have the divided one if i change the manifold in the future..
Sindre
Sindre