Ok, I didn't intend on doing this "mod" until i had the motor rebuilt, but the metal fuel line on the vac rack popped a leak. Anyway, I got the work done and it started right up, no problem. I backed it out of the garage to let it warm up so i could set the idle. Shortly after moving it I realized I had the twin scroll solenoid vac lines backwards. Shut it off, fixed it and started it up again. Let it run some more and it started idling real low. I bumped the throttle and it came up above 1000 for a few seconds. then it died. It hasn't started since. I have put oil in the spark plug holes twice now, trying to get it to start.

After reviewing a few of the better threads on emissions removal I found that the vac lines on the UIM were hooked up incorrectly. I went back to the attached vaccum diagram and put the lines as shown and described, using new silicone hoses.

FPR -> diagonal nipple in LIM
Primary injector Bleed -> 2nd nipple down, firewall side
Oil injector bleed -> 3rd nipple down, firewall side
Cold start assist (yes I kept it) -> 1st and 4th nipples, firewall side
Twin scroll -> 1st nipple, front side, -> check valve -> TS solenoid -> actuator
Boost sensor, guage and BOV -> nipple on UIM below BAC valve (kept that too)

Also I have removed the EGR, ACV, Split air pipe, and what ever part was mounted to the firewall side of the UIM. I also did the TB mod while things were apart.

The motor is obvoiusly flooded, but I have never had it flood this bad. Usually I just use my fuel pump cut switch and it starts in seconds. Is there something wrong in the way I have things set up? Thanks for any help.

RR87

 

Forgot to attach the vaccum diagram....

 

ok well i used that same diagram a capped the the thing in the middle of the lim and ran the PD, oil injector line,and vac line on the lim between the oil injectors to the back of the uim then on the front i capped all except a place for the bypass valve

 

That doesn't sound right. You should have three nipple on the back, with the middle one being bigger than the other two. The big one is for the oil nozzle air bleed and the top one is for the injector air bleed. The bottom one is for the double-throttle system and should be capped if you've done the TB mod.

Do you think you'll ever drive you car when it's 3degF or colder outside? If not the system will never operate and you might as well ditch it. Even Mazda recommends you do.

Make sure the check valve and solenoid valve are oriented correctly or it won't work. The check valve arrow should point to the intake manifold and the nipple on the side of the solenoid valve should connect to the actuator.

That'll work, but pesonally I don't like more than one tee on a line. I discussed what I did instead in this thread.

Pull the leading spark plugs, crank the motor with pump off and the throttle fully open to clear it out, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the plug holes then replace the plugs. If it was just badly flooded it will almost definitely now start. If it doesn't you might have another probelm somewhere.

That diagram's actually wrong as it shows the secondary fuel injector bleed, which the S4 doesn't have. It's an error in the FSM that I didn't pick up when I made the diagram. I thought I'd posted a corrected version but I can't find it. Just ignore that line. Note that you can just see the unused bottom nipple below the oil nozzle line.

 

ok, I have four nipples on the firewall side, third one down is the larger one. Then there are three on the front side.

I kept the CSA setup so I can push water into the motor (to steam clean carbon off the rotors) every few months, but I might just ditch it and use another spot to do this.

I have the check valve positioned correctly, going to the horzontal nipple on the solenoid. The vertical nipple leads to the actuator. I got this from the FSM page 4B-53.

 

Update for those interested:

Took the UIM off again today. $hit canned the cold start assist valve and blocked it off. While doing so I found that the ACV block off plate had bent, creating a huge vaccum leak. I think this happened the other day after my first high (10 psi)boost run with my FCD. I replaced that with some thicker aluminum. Put her all back together and cleaned the spark plugs again. Adjusted the TPS. Pop, sputter, cough, die. I need new plugs.

I hope that is all I need to finish this as I am running out of gasket material to make UIM gaskets with.

 

I revised the vaccum diagram that I had posted previously. This revision is to delete the secondary injector air bleed line, as the S4 Turbo doesn't have this.

Also I have included a diagram showing the nipples on the UIM near the throttle body. The following is how I have my car hooked up.

1: To Twin Scroll solenoid, by way of check valve
2: Capped
3: To BOV and boost sensor
4: Capped
5: To Primary Ijnector Air bleed
6: To Oil injector Air bleed
7: Capped


Key Search words: rat's nest removal, vaccum diagram, emissions removal, vaccum rack removal

 

I forgot to attach the damn diagrams again.....

 

What you've done is fine.

 

Thanks for the help. I got the car running the other day. Just needed new plugs after I fixed that ACV block off plate.

So I took the car for the first run after all this work (and adding a FCD) and what a difference. My roommate owned this car in high school, and it is just as I remember it and then some. I figured out that the solenoid that was actuating the Twin Scroll was shot, so I was lagging bad. I now boost really quick, and in third gear I am getting full boost (10 psi)before 3000rpm.

 

Ok well I went out and did some stuff this morning. I got some numbers .... but remember again im not sure if the 88 gtu had stock turbo stuff or what....

anyways Im new at using this tool so my readings are very (estimated) haha. Its in inches

t2
rear sway: .553 inch
half shaft: 1.031
other shaft thing: .881
driveshaft: 2.951

88 gtu
rear sway: .560
half shaft: .954
other shaft thing: .879
driveshaft: 2.254


again those are my readings, and you have to remember like a peice of dirt could easily be 100s of an inch. Personally I think they are the same. (the sway bars) I dont see how the NA could be thicker than the t2.

Hope that helped.

Here are some pictures 4 MB http://files.filefront.com/rx7rearsw.../fileinfo.html

 

Wrong thread maybe?

 

since i cant seem to keep my subscribed threads for some strange reason

ill post in them!

 

wow I wondered where that post went a long time ago. Now I know. haha how weird.

 

good info in this thread fr rats nest removal. gotta love that search feature.

 

i have a s4 jdm 13bt and on the firewall side i only have two vaccum lines which would be 5 and 6 on your diagram just to add some info