i had read somewhere that when installing an ACV blockoff plate(which i installed on the new engine waiting to be put in my 10AE) someone had suggested drilling a hole in it and putting a fitting with a barbed nipple on it so that the pressure sensor vaccume line will remain in tact. do i need to do this if i want my oem boost gauge to still "work"? i tried a search and didnt come up with a specific answer. thanks for any help in advance.

 

That would be me; here's mine:



You can tee the MAP sensor line into the BOV line, but this way is better.

The MAP sensor must remain functional, as it sends manifold pressure info to the ECU as well as the boost gauge.

 

awesome deal. any specific placement of the nipple and any reccomendations on size of the fitting and did you tap threads into the plate to accomidate the fitting?

 

The nipple must go in exactly the same place it was on the ACV so it lines up with the hole in the manifold. Get a brass nipple that has the correct barb size for the vac line on the MAP sensor; and decent engineering or hydraulic supply shop should have something suitable. Yes I tapped a thread in the plate.

 

great info! if i do not go with a nipple and choose to leave the plate as is, what are the down sides? i really think i'm going to drill the plate and tap in for a fitting. i may braze the little guy in place too!

 

woud brazing be acceptable?

 

Brazing would be as fine as frog's hair.

 

But not really necessary...

 

i just wanted to make sure i don't cause a vaccume leak or run the risk of the fitting backing out of the plate.

 

******fitting backing out of the plate.*****

Think Loctite or thread locker.

 

couldnt you just attach the pressure sens. line to one of the other nipples on the LIM?

 

yeah, thats exactly what i did when put on all of the emissions blockoffs - there is an abundance of nipples, just pick one that will let you read manifold absolute pressure and your good to go.

 

Mine is solid as a rock and I only used thread tape, no thread lock. There's no way it's coming out without tools.

You mean UIM. There's only one nipple on the LIM and you should have the BOV on it. With no emissions there are two spare nipple on the front of the UIM that see vac and boost, but my way results in a shorter and more direct route, which I prefer.

 

my fault, i have n/a. plenty of LIM nipples for me ..... but no boost

 

This thread is irrelevant to NA's, since only Turbos have the MAP sensor fed from a nipple on the ACV.

 

very true. also, great advice from NZCovertible!

 

Yes, Great advice & picture. saving it for when i finally do get boost

 

My TII lim has 4 vacuum nipples on it. 1 is brake booster, 2 smaller ones, and one larger one. Wouldn't one of these work. You only need lines for the FPR, BOV, MAP sensor, and i think thats it right? after the emissions removal.

Also, couldn't you just use a T fitting?

 

NZ, what is wrong with using the other line (line on the left in the pictured above) for the boost sensor? I have that connected to the boost sensor. and my bov and boost gauge are running off the top and bottom nipples on the front of the UIM.

 

Your LIM has one on the outside for the BOV and one on the inside for the FPR. The front of the UIM has three nipples, one of which (the middle one) doesn't see vacuum. The rear of the S4 UIM has three nipples, only one of which (the bottom one) sees vacuum.

And fuel injector air bleed and oil nozzle air bleed (unless you've removed the OMP).

Did you read my first post?

See above.

That'll work fine, but I didn't want long vac lines everywhere which is why they're on the side of my manifold instead of the front.

 

could this cause hesitaton problems if you don't have that seperate line? i just have the one line comin off the manifold.

 

I don't think this would cause hesitations, I just don't like multiple tees on one line.

Make sure you have the restrictor pill in the MAP sensor line (downstream of any tees). Not having that can cause hesitations.

 

^I'm gonna run the extra line just to get rid of my 5 ended tee

 

i'm just going with the cleanist setup i can that is fully functional. i'll probably drill and tap for the fitting. it just seems that it'll look cleaner than a "T" in the lines.