driftin8ez

ok here is my plan. It should only cost a few bucks on vac hose and fittings. Please let me know what you think. Ok what i plan on doing is using the stock air pump to activate the aux ports and the vdi at there apropriate rpm without the acv. Ok here is the plan outline. Take off the acv and cap all vacuum lines and put a bloackoff plate. Run a T-fitting on the two aux ports and make it a single vac line. Then run it to side b of the appropriate solonoid valve over by the drivers side of the engine bay where all those vacuum solenoids are. Now run a vac line from the airpump to side A on the solenoid. So when the ecu tells the valve to open the airpump will feed the aux or vdi with air. When u drop below the rpms the valve with close and the ports can bleed out through the air filter on the bottom of the solenoid valve. Just have to figure out where the excess air from the airpump will go when the valves are closed. What do ya think. This is based on my understanding that on a s5 rx7 the ecu tells the aux solenoid and vdi solenoid to open based on rpm and nothing else or maybe throttle position aswell. Feedback improvements?

driftin8ez

can anyone varify that the aux and vdi solendoid are activated by the ecu at the specific rpms.

Icemark

I am not sure what you are asking, as your first post in this thread went on an on without getting anywhere.

I don't think you understand the systems. The VDI and aux ports are activated by the ECU on S5 non turbos. They are activated by the ECU seeing load, not by RPM (although they are activated at specific RPMs while under load).

They are actuated by the air pressure from the air pump, and controlled through the solenoids (which in turn are controlled by the ECU).

As far as the ACV; it has nothing to do with the aux ports or VDI; other than on S5 models there is a small nipple on the ACV input line for out to the aux port and VDI solenoids (that is being fed directly by the air pump).

So if I understand your first post, you are wanting to remove the ACV and "T" off the air pump (because you would blow out the air pump and the actuators, running it only to the aux port and VDI lines) and just vent the remaining air (which is basicly what the stock system does/is, with just the ACV determining where the vented air goes).

Just so you know, the ACV has absolutly nothing to do with power or torque or performance or anything and its whole purpose in life is to lower backfires and keep the cats from melting down.

driftin8ez

ok, Let my try and explain it again. It was late and i was rambling alittle. OK....I read a few posts on differant ways people have rigged up the aux ports and vdi ports to work after they removed the acv and/or the air pump. Some have done it by adding extra electric air pumps but i think that is silly. The stock airpump works great and only takes about 1hp at 8000rpm to run. So here is what i was trying to get at. Now that i removed the acv to simplify my vacuum hoses and hopefully fix an idle prob. that may been vac related, Just wanted to take it out of the equation. So anyway. No ACV = No Aux ports or VDI correct? Now what i was planning on doing is using the stock airpump and solenoid valves to operate the systems without the acv on my motor. If i leave all the lines how they are and just ran the airpump directly to the valves, The aux and vdi would have nowhere to bleed out the air when below activation rpms so it would be just like wired open ports. SO what i planned on doing is switching the vac lines around on the solenoid valves(refer to pic in my first post) so that when the valve is open air would flow from A to B and when closed air from B which would be from the aux or vdi would bleed off and letting them close when at idle or slow driving. I will make up a new diagram showing the air flow. All i need to know now is if the ecu sends a signal to those valves to open when the engine is underload no matter what is connected to them. Hope this is a little clearer.

driftin8ez

here is a diagram. When below activation airpump just dumps air. At the same time as the aux ports bleed closed. When activated solenoid will switch so airpump supplies air to the ports. Anybetter?

Icemark

There is insufficent tube diameter to just run the dump through the valve, but it sounds like you are just running the system the same as stock anyway.

And again the ACV has absolutly nothing to to do with the aux port or VDI, other than the aux port and VDI solenoids get their air from the same output as the ACV on the air pumps output.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Ok, sorry for bringing up an old thread, I had an idea and searched the fsm without comprehending much, and searched the forum... This is the closest I could find. I too am working on vdi actuation because the P/O deleted... everything. What I'm currently doing is manually switching a small 12v compressor that I've vented so that the VDI actuator is only recieving arpox. 3.5 psi, and it actuates smoothly. I don't want to manually switch it anymore. I noticed Icemark mention that the ecu activates the stock solonoid under a certain load. My questions are as follows.
1. What voltage is fed to the solonoid from the ecu.
2. How is the load calculated and would the deletion of other emmissions components effect the load calculation.
3. Which damn plug is it? (I don't have the solonoid rack, but I do have all the plugs still)
4 And Fianally. Could I wire in a relay to activate the compressor at the right time leaving my hands free while I'm driving?


Once again, I'm sorry to resurrect this ancient thread, and I'm sorry if it's a plain out stupid question. I know enough about electrical circuits to get by in day to day life... So basically nothing. However it seems to be a simple enough idea, and it would cost like, $30 to do and do right. Much better than some of the 200 dollar ideas I've seen floating around here.

Let me know what you guys think, and also what the hell I need to plug into.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Ok, answered number 3, the white plug is vdi according to the FSM. I still don't know what type of output it would have.

HAILERS

See page F1-80 and 81 of the free series five FSM that can be downloaded from this site.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Crap, so it's a voltage drop? How in the world could I wire something in to turn on the 12v compressor when the engine is above 5200? Again, I apologize for my electrical idiocy. I would like to retain the use of the stock ecu and vdi plug. Is there anything that would switch on a circuit if an absence of power is detected?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Summit RPM switch. It's a little redudant since the ECU already switches the VDI solenoid on at 5200, but it's an easy way to supply 12V power somewhere at the rpm you need.

HAILERS

The voltage drops because/when the ECU puts a ground on the solenoid. IT puts the ground on the wire on the solenoid that is NOT black/white. There's only two wires.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

That would be the simplest way to do it I'm sure, however the less money I spend, the happier I will be.
I've gathered that there are only 2 wires. So are you saying that when the vdi is supposed to be actuated, it simply completes the circuit by grounding the non-black white wire? If that were the case, then shouldn't the voltage from the black white wire to the non- black white wire increase from 0 to 12? (Imagine I have one probe from the multi-meter in each plug as the car hit 5200 rpm while driving.... Wait, thats a great idea! I'll be back in a sec.)

HAILERS

I didn't want to look up the color of the wire, so I said the wire that isn't BLACK/WHITE.

The BLACK/WHITE wire on EACH of the solenoids should have 12v anytime the key is to ON or better.

Sooooooo............from what you wrote above, I'd assume your not getting 12vdc on your black/white. Is that right?

It should have 12vdc and when the ECU puts a gnd on the other wire (whatever color that is), the solenoid operates and the other wire will now have under 2vdc on it.

Prior to that it (the other wire) will show 12vdc because the coil of the solenoid is connected to the black/white wire.

I've no idea why your solenoid has no 12vdc on the black/white wire.

HAILERS

EDIT: Y/B is the color of the other wire.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I think I need to clarify. My car is in good working condition. I'm getting 12v off the b/w wire. So what I am asking, is can I use a standard 12v spst (spno) relay to activate the compressor or do I need a spnc?

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Just to add a conclusion to this thread, I got it figured out.

I bought a standard automotive relay, 12v compressor (Out of a cheap airhorn kit from Autozone) and a 12v led.

I ran the 2 wires from the white plug into the little center console under the coin dish (heh, junction box lol) and ran the b/w wire to the led, led to the coil on the relay, and the non b/w wire to the other end of the coil. Drilled a little hole in one of the square punch outs to mount the led. Then ran the hot wire (+) from the battery (With 20A fuse) back to the switching side of the relay, the other one ran back to the + terminal of the 12v compressor. Now it works almost exactly as mazda had intended, the compressor only turns on at WOT above 5200rpm and the little light turns on to let you know when it's working.

Mind you the compressor puts out about 15psi, I think thats a little much for the actuator so I put in a plastic universal fit vacuum coupling and made a tiny hole in it. I ran it first to a pressure guage and made the hole a little bigger by gently twisting a razor blade into it until the pressure dropped down enough. Mine is at about 3.5psi now and the actuator moves nice and smooth.

Total cost.... $40