Radiator suggestions?
#1
Radiator suggestions?
I am looking for a new aluminum radiator to help cool my engine a little better. My stock radiator neck is barely starting to leak next to the radiator cap. What radiator do you guys think is the best overall to install on my car taking into consideration the ease of installation (meaning bolting right up) and functionality? I have a 90 TII if that helps. I am not really looking to modify to install it. I just want one that will bolt right up like the OEM radiator. Thanks guys.
#4
MECP Certified Installer
I got a copper radiator from these guys before they even sold aluminum ones. Fan shroud bolts right up.
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#7
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
Yes, Koyo has very good marketing but the few I've seen in person (maybe a dozen) didn't strike me as any better than the Godspeed I bought.
The problem is, I suspect that Godspeed is just a name slapped on product subcontracted from a variety of small fab shops. My Godspeed has been fine for several years but I've seen pics of new ones that don't even appear similar to mine. The disparity in quality control would just not be possible in one place.
My impression is that many Asian/Chinese brands operate just like that.
I wonder if Koyo is an actual factory that cranks out parts or an office full of phones with a bulging Rolodex (which is exactly what I'd bet Godspeed is). OBX would be another likely suspect here.
@OP:
Have you considered just getting an OEM replacement or a copper aftermarket rad instead of an aluminum one?
Yours lasted 24 years, so they have a good track record.
The problem is, I suspect that Godspeed is just a name slapped on product subcontracted from a variety of small fab shops. My Godspeed has been fine for several years but I've seen pics of new ones that don't even appear similar to mine. The disparity in quality control would just not be possible in one place.
My impression is that many Asian/Chinese brands operate just like that.
I wonder if Koyo is an actual factory that cranks out parts or an office full of phones with a bulging Rolodex (which is exactly what I'd bet Godspeed is). OBX would be another likely suspect here.
@OP:
Have you considered just getting an OEM replacement or a copper aftermarket rad instead of an aluminum one?
Yours lasted 24 years, so they have a good track record.
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#9
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#11
Sharp Claws
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in china
as for the rest, there is no such thing is an OEM drop in radiator unless you get an OE replacement one. even koyo requires some modification to make work and they make the factory radiators.
IMO the name brand units are overpriced, you shouldn't be paying over $250 for an aluminum radiator no matter what, unless it has twice the amount of material as a factory radiator and they don't. this is basically why i modify the godspeed radiators, because they're cheap, larger than the rest AND dual pass which the only comparable unit is the koyo N flow which is $400 and has LESS capacity than the chinese part does.
as for the rest, there is no such thing is an OEM drop in radiator unless you get an OE replacement one. even koyo requires some modification to make work and they make the factory radiators.
IMO the name brand units are overpriced, you shouldn't be paying over $250 for an aluminum radiator no matter what, unless it has twice the amount of material as a factory radiator and they don't. this is basically why i modify the godspeed radiators, because they're cheap, larger than the rest AND dual pass which the only comparable unit is the koyo N flow which is $400 and has LESS capacity than the chinese part does.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-02-13 at 07:27 PM.
#12
Boston Acoustics SPG555's
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Nichi-ra is oem . Koyo made compressors for mazda not radiators . I bought my Nflow for 274 shipped . I would agree with the OEM choice . Mine is 26 years old , Ive nevet heard of a failure but I doubt my koyo will best that
#13
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
for some reason mazda never stuck with a certain make for every component such as the compressors which were actually nippondenso and sanden, the steering racks are almost all made by koyo, as well as the power steering pumps but the pumps changed throughout the years also.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-02-13 at 10:24 PM.
#14
Very good info here! From what I am reading, I am looking into getting a drop in radiator that doesn't require any modifications and oem seems the way to go. I would like extra cooling but the truth is.. I don't plan on increasing my hp at this moment. I plan on leaving it stock for a bit and just focus on other areas such as worn suspension and maintenance such as ignition and all fluids. Would you guys agree that I should be fine with just the oem radiator? Does Mazda even still sell these? Or is there an aftermarket oem shop?
#16
Information Regurgitator
Very good info here! From what I am reading, I am looking into getting a drop in radiator that doesn't require any modifications and oem seems the way to go. I would like extra cooling but the truth is.. I don't plan on increasing my hp at this moment. I plan on leaving it stock for a bit and just focus on other areas such as worn suspension and maintenance such as ignition and all fluids. Would you guys agree that I should be fine with just the oem radiator? Does Mazda even still sell these? Or is there an aftermarket oem shop?
https://www.mazdatrix.com/b8.htm
I have ran the brass replacement on and off for years. I would pick up stock ones from the junkyard and run them till the plastic tanks crack then put the brass one back in. By my autometer gauge I think the stock alum. is better than the brass. Recovery time after a hard run seems faster. For normal driving not much difference. I don't think the brass one is reccomended for turbo cars. But why buy the brass one when the Godspeed is cheaper. I bough mine in 1998 before I had the internet and knew better. My next one will probably be a Godspeed, but I don't run the shroud cause I have an E-fan so fittement shouldn't be an issue for me.
#17
Information Regurgitator
Oh when I said cheaper than the N-flow I was looking at the price for the 89-92 m/t one not the 86-88. You can put the 89-92 one in an 86-88 car but I think you need different radiator mount brackets that bolt to the side of the radiator.
#18
MECP Certified Installer
Very good info here! From what I am reading, I am looking into getting a drop in radiator that doesn't require any modifications and oem seems the way to go. I would like extra cooling but the truth is.. I don't plan on increasing my hp at this moment. I plan on leaving it stock for a bit and just focus on other areas such as worn suspension and maintenance such as ignition and all fluids. Would you guys agree that I should be fine with just the oem radiator? Does Mazda even still sell these? Or is there an aftermarket oem shop?
#20
1308ccs of awesome
iTrader: (9)
I had a godspeed for a while to hold me over until my v-mount was done... I was not impressed. It cooled fine, but it was super low quality. Through the radiator cap neck you could see where they just punched a hole in it and welded the neck on... they didn't even clean up the jagged metal on the inside.
it's a koyo n-flow clone, sure it works fine, but who knows how long it'll last...
OEM replacement will be fine, just make sure it has metal end-tanks. plastic end tanks don't last very long, I've seen them fail on 10 year old cars...
it's a koyo n-flow clone, sure it works fine, but who knows how long it'll last...
OEM replacement will be fine, just make sure it has metal end-tanks. plastic end tanks don't last very long, I've seen them fail on 10 year old cars...
#21
Information Regurgitator
In my previous post I should have said why buy the brass one from Mazdatrix when the Godspeed is cheaper. Rockauto.com has them for the 86-88 cars from $137 to $203 depending on which one you get. None of them on there are aluminum though.
#22
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
i have run all types of radiators, a brass OE radiator still resides in my TII and has worked fine for many years but no OE size radiator can keep up if i sustain boost for longer than short bursts.
the koyo radiators work the best for their size but why? because the metal is very thin and it fatigues quickly. i've had to replace a number of the expensive koyo radiators simply because they leaked.
fluidyne is also a good quality radiator, the best quality in fact but it works only slightly better than the standard koyo.
the mazdaspeed radiator is probably the best all around due to it's size and cooling capacity.
and yeah the godspeed radiators are low quality but i haven't seen any fail as of yet. as long as the welds are fine there isn't much to a radiator to make it fully functional. you get what you pay for and paying less means a less refined product. the block plate is an example of that but it still works and could be upgraded to a more proper weld for still less than the name brand radiators. the ports are also slightly too large requiring you to stretch the hoses over them slightly, but of course this also means less likelihood of leaks. they require about the same amount of effort to install as a koyo does as the brackets are welded to accomodate OEM radiator brackets.
the koyo radiators work the best for their size but why? because the metal is very thin and it fatigues quickly. i've had to replace a number of the expensive koyo radiators simply because they leaked.
fluidyne is also a good quality radiator, the best quality in fact but it works only slightly better than the standard koyo.
the mazdaspeed radiator is probably the best all around due to it's size and cooling capacity.
and yeah the godspeed radiators are low quality but i haven't seen any fail as of yet. as long as the welds are fine there isn't much to a radiator to make it fully functional. you get what you pay for and paying less means a less refined product. the block plate is an example of that but it still works and could be upgraded to a more proper weld for still less than the name brand radiators. the ports are also slightly too large requiring you to stretch the hoses over them slightly, but of course this also means less likelihood of leaks. they require about the same amount of effort to install as a koyo does as the brackets are welded to accomodate OEM radiator brackets.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-03-13 at 02:04 PM.
#24
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
one had a very minor leak right out of the box, he ran it for several years but eventually got sick of the leak and replaced it.
2 more blew out when engines overheated. which is fine but i feel a better quality part wouldn't have melted down so easily if the material was even slightly thicker. granted these were extreme scenarios, both cars driven until the heat shut the engines down completely due to blown seals, in one case the coolant seals were actually liquified. one car blew the plastic thermostat neck and kept trucking 'til she had no choice but to pull over, the other drove without a drive belt on the water pump.
2 more blew out when engines overheated. which is fine but i feel a better quality part wouldn't have melted down so easily if the material was even slightly thicker. granted these were extreme scenarios, both cars driven until the heat shut the engines down completely due to blown seals, in one case the coolant seals were actually liquified. one car blew the plastic thermostat neck and kept trucking 'til she had no choice but to pull over, the other drove without a drive belt on the water pump.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-03-13 at 02:09 PM.
#25
MECP Certified Installer
I just got to thinking...
So, my radiator is Copper with brass end tanks, and was cheaper than the Koyo. Considering Coppers thermal conductivity is about ~49% better, what is the advantage to aluminum besides weight?
So, my radiator is Copper with brass end tanks, and was cheaper than the Koyo. Considering Coppers thermal conductivity is about ~49% better, what is the advantage to aluminum besides weight?