Hey just want some input on what radaitor is working for everyone out there. I use my TII for drifting and recently attended my first drift day were I encountered a problem with over heating. I have been looking at running a Koyo or something.

Any help will help

Thanks
Howard

 

Koyo and griffin are good radiators

 

I have a koyo and you can completely thrash the car and the gauge never budges. It holds an extra gallon compared to the stock one. Be sure it isn't the oil cooler thats the problem, though.

 

The two overheating causes that sneek up you are leaves wedged in behind the oil cooler, and a worn out fan clutch.

Sureshot’s Overheating – check list
1) Replace the thermostat. Make sure it fits. The spring loaded disc under the stat valve must close the bypass port, or guess what?
2) Replace the radiator cap. Low pressure = steam bubbles = spit out coolant.
3) Look for leaks. (same symptoms as #2) Some can be very hard to find. You may have to pressure test it. A common failure spot is the 3/8” coolant line that runs from the top of the rear housing (under the intake runners) to the throttle body, to the BAC, to the water pump. Another one is the heater hose under the oil filter.
4) The fan clutch will slowly start slipping as it ages. The fan should pull really hard up to about 4k when the motor is hot. It should maintain about 4k as the motor revs higher. Sometimes you can get more life from it by bending outward the bi-metal strip on the front of the fan clutch. The cut-in for the series 4 fan clutch is gradual – it pulls some even when cold. The series 5 fan clutch is more on/off.
Banzaitoyota’s checklist
1.Are the Oil Cooler fins clear of debris and clean?
2.Does the Oil Cooler thermostat function properly?
3.Are the Radiator Fins clean of debris?
4.Is the Stock Bottom shroud still in place?
5.Are you running a Dual Belt Pulley on the Alt?
6.Did you install a NEW Water Pump when you installed the engine?
7.Is the bottom hose collapsing under load?
8.Did you have the Radiator and Oil Cooler cleaned and Flushed when installing the rebuild ( AS required by MOST REPUTABLE REBUILDERS)?
9. Have you verified water temps with a real gauge instead of the sock POS?
10. What ratio Coolant to Water are you running?
11. Are you running a new STOCK MAZDA OEM thermostat?
12. Mazda Rad Caps?
13. Stock Fan Shroud installed ( For those of you running stock Mechanical Fan)
14. Electric Fan users: Do you have a Shroud installed at all. Most installations only draw air directly across ~60% of the available core surface area.
15. are the stock deflectors installed around the relays forward of the Radiator Core Support?
16. If 15 is a no: Do you have an plate mounted across the support to direct air-flow?
17. Install a spring in the lower rad hose to keep it from collapsing at high RPM

 

Hey thanks for all of the great help I think I am going to buy a koyo soon and a real temp gauge. I am going to replace the t stat and maybe have a 60/40 split with more water. I am also going to get some slim fans.

 

sorry to jack the thread but......my car does NOT overheat but it goes through coolant very fast...........my coolant seals are ok, no bubbles in the radiator and no smoke on start-up.........

 

I had that problem, it was a bad rad cap. It was leaking coolant out as it heated up, then sucking air back in.

 

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooh...............i'll replace that today then.......thanks....i'll let you all know if the problem goes away.......

 

is there a big difference between the s4 ans s5 model radaitors?

 

slight.............i have an S4 aftermarket radiator in my S5...........bolted on fine everything hooked on there fine.......

 

does anyone have any idea as to which one is better s4 or s5 I am seeing a price difference. I dont really care about the price I just want the best one.

 

S5 runs the fill neck on the driver's side of the rad.
If you don't need this, get the S4 one.


-Ted

 

[hijack]
A working cooling system looses NO coolant.
You have a leak hiding somewhere.
Sometimes you can find it by smell, before you can see it.
Good luck..
[/hijack]

 

^ i know i thought it was leaking somewhere but I found nothing after putting up on the lift and looking underneath........i'll keep searching.

 

so you are saying that the only difference is the fillneck because I am seeing a 50 dollar difference in price. I would like to buy the cheaper one but I am willing to buy the more expensive if it is going to work better.

 

That is correct.


-Ted

 

thanks to all for the assistance. I will keep you posted on the progress and get some pics up