Racing Beat N/T exhaust installation write-up
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Racing Beat N/T exhaust installation write-up
I read a few posts on the Racing Beat exhaust system. I got mine a few days ago (I needed a replacement, and did the install myself). The following is my writeup on the system, installation, and comments for an 88 GTU (non-turbo).
I purchased my system from Mazdatrix for the cost of $664.46, including the shipping costs (I did deduct the three new doughnuts I bought).
As Mazdatrix's website explains, the Racing Beat cat-back exhaust system was shipped in two boxes. One box contained the two mufflers, and the other contained the y-pipe and a smaller box containing the bolts and gasket for the cat. The gaskets for the mufflers are taped to the outside of the packaging material of each muffler. The main parts are packaged in bubble wrap, and are taped securely. When removing the packing from the y-pipe, some of the tape will stick.
The included hardware contains the cat y-pipe gasket, four bolts, washers, and nuts for the mufflers (you have to reuse the bolts on the cat), and two smaller bolts and washers for the y-pipe mounting (you just need the bolts, don't bother with the smaller lock washers).
There are no instructions or other documentation included.
The y-pipe is chrome plated thick steel, and the mufflers are polished stainless steel. The bolts, nuts, and washers are brass, and the y-pipe bracket is chrome plated steel.
Before you remove the old exhaust system, spray all the bolts (cat, and mounting points) with penetrating lube (WD-40), and let it soak for a day or two.
You'll need:
Tools:
17MM wrench
17MM long socket
12MM socket
socket wrench
hammer
wire brush
flat head screwdriver
floor jack
2 jack stands
Additional Hardware:
the stock washers, spacers, and sleeve from the rear y-pipe mounting
4 new rubber doughnuts (for the mufflers, otherwise, you'll need an additional 2 doughnuts for the cat/y-pipe bracket)
If you're reusing the stock cats:
2 nuts that join the cat to the y-pipe
Jack up the rear of the car using the floor jack at the rear differential (you'll need to move the jack out of the way later). Place the jack stands under the rear suspension member.
When removing the old exhaust, you'll need some additional leverage breaking the nuts on the cat free (use plenty of penetrating spray, a few bangs of a hammer, and a length of pipe to extend the length of your socket wrench). The bolts on the rear y-pipe mounting are very badly rusted, but they will break loose. If you break the nuts off the old y-pipe, don't worry about it as you'll be using the new bolts included in the kit (but retain the washers, hangar, and spacer). The center bracket on the y-pipe is held in place by two rubber doughnuts. If you're replacing them with new doughnuts, just cut them off with a knife. If not, remove the nuts that hold the cat to the y pipe and the rear mount first, then push the pipe to the side. You can then slip the passenger side doughnut off. For the driver side, you'll need to use a length of pipe and bend the bracket enough to make slipping the doughnut off easier.
As for the mufflers, they're held in place with rubber doughnuts and hangars, which slide off (or can be cut). I'm not going to go into length about unbolting them from the y-pipe because my old mufflers had rusted off (they were really in bad shape).
Once you've removed the old y-pipe and mufflers, you'll need to clean the gasket surface on the cat (use the wire brush and a screw driver to scrape off the old gasket material, then slip on the new gasket and check to see if it's flush).
Before you install the y-pipe bracket, you'll need to enlarge the two holes that mount the bracket to the y-pipe using the cat nuts (makes it easier to slip the bracket into place).
Using a dolly, or help, maneuver the y-pipe under the car from the rear (you don't want to scratch the chrome). Be sure to have the new gasket on the cat. Then, bolt up the y-pipe and bracket to the cat (but don't tighten the bolts yet). Then, you can slip on the new rubber doughnuts (the driver side will be tougher, so use a screwdriver to help stretch it in place). With someone holding the y-pipe up, bolt the rear attachment (using the new bolts, stock washers and spacers). Don't use the locking washer for those bolts, otherwise you won't be able to thread the bolts into pipe.
Now, starting at the rear, slip the muffler's front mounting hook (inlet end) onto the rubber hangar, then secure the rear (outlet end) using the rubber doughnuts. Once again, slip the gasket in between the muffler and y-pipe and attach the new bolts and washers (using the socket and open ended wrench). With the components in place, you can now tighten all the bolts up (going from muffler to muffler to y-pipe/cat).
After getting the car on the ground, start it up and check for any leaks.
It's a nice system, the car is noticeably quieter (especially as I didn't have any mufflers). The look and sound are nice, and it's not overly loud. You'll want to polish the mufflers (as grease and dirt will get onto them during installation).
I purchased my system from Mazdatrix for the cost of $664.46, including the shipping costs (I did deduct the three new doughnuts I bought).
As Mazdatrix's website explains, the Racing Beat cat-back exhaust system was shipped in two boxes. One box contained the two mufflers, and the other contained the y-pipe and a smaller box containing the bolts and gasket for the cat. The gaskets for the mufflers are taped to the outside of the packaging material of each muffler. The main parts are packaged in bubble wrap, and are taped securely. When removing the packing from the y-pipe, some of the tape will stick.
The included hardware contains the cat y-pipe gasket, four bolts, washers, and nuts for the mufflers (you have to reuse the bolts on the cat), and two smaller bolts and washers for the y-pipe mounting (you just need the bolts, don't bother with the smaller lock washers).
There are no instructions or other documentation included.
The y-pipe is chrome plated thick steel, and the mufflers are polished stainless steel. The bolts, nuts, and washers are brass, and the y-pipe bracket is chrome plated steel.
Before you remove the old exhaust system, spray all the bolts (cat, and mounting points) with penetrating lube (WD-40), and let it soak for a day or two.
You'll need:
Tools:
17MM wrench
17MM long socket
12MM socket
socket wrench
hammer
wire brush
flat head screwdriver
floor jack
2 jack stands
Additional Hardware:
the stock washers, spacers, and sleeve from the rear y-pipe mounting
4 new rubber doughnuts (for the mufflers, otherwise, you'll need an additional 2 doughnuts for the cat/y-pipe bracket)
If you're reusing the stock cats:
2 nuts that join the cat to the y-pipe
Jack up the rear of the car using the floor jack at the rear differential (you'll need to move the jack out of the way later). Place the jack stands under the rear suspension member.
When removing the old exhaust, you'll need some additional leverage breaking the nuts on the cat free (use plenty of penetrating spray, a few bangs of a hammer, and a length of pipe to extend the length of your socket wrench). The bolts on the rear y-pipe mounting are very badly rusted, but they will break loose. If you break the nuts off the old y-pipe, don't worry about it as you'll be using the new bolts included in the kit (but retain the washers, hangar, and spacer). The center bracket on the y-pipe is held in place by two rubber doughnuts. If you're replacing them with new doughnuts, just cut them off with a knife. If not, remove the nuts that hold the cat to the y pipe and the rear mount first, then push the pipe to the side. You can then slip the passenger side doughnut off. For the driver side, you'll need to use a length of pipe and bend the bracket enough to make slipping the doughnut off easier.
As for the mufflers, they're held in place with rubber doughnuts and hangars, which slide off (or can be cut). I'm not going to go into length about unbolting them from the y-pipe because my old mufflers had rusted off (they were really in bad shape).
Once you've removed the old y-pipe and mufflers, you'll need to clean the gasket surface on the cat (use the wire brush and a screw driver to scrape off the old gasket material, then slip on the new gasket and check to see if it's flush).
Before you install the y-pipe bracket, you'll need to enlarge the two holes that mount the bracket to the y-pipe using the cat nuts (makes it easier to slip the bracket into place).
Using a dolly, or help, maneuver the y-pipe under the car from the rear (you don't want to scratch the chrome). Be sure to have the new gasket on the cat. Then, bolt up the y-pipe and bracket to the cat (but don't tighten the bolts yet). Then, you can slip on the new rubber doughnuts (the driver side will be tougher, so use a screwdriver to help stretch it in place). With someone holding the y-pipe up, bolt the rear attachment (using the new bolts, stock washers and spacers). Don't use the locking washer for those bolts, otherwise you won't be able to thread the bolts into pipe.
Now, starting at the rear, slip the muffler's front mounting hook (inlet end) onto the rubber hangar, then secure the rear (outlet end) using the rubber doughnuts. Once again, slip the gasket in between the muffler and y-pipe and attach the new bolts and washers (using the socket and open ended wrench). With the components in place, you can now tighten all the bolts up (going from muffler to muffler to y-pipe/cat).
After getting the car on the ground, start it up and check for any leaks.
It's a nice system, the car is noticeably quieter (especially as I didn't have any mufflers). The look and sound are nice, and it's not overly loud. You'll want to polish the mufflers (as grease and dirt will get onto them during installation).
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Update/addendum
I smelt a burning smell and saw smoke coming from the cat/y-pipe connection. It could be the new seal buring-in (it didn't smell like exhaust fumes, more plasticy--possibly some tape residue that's burning off), but I'm not sure. I'm going to let the exhaust cool and recheck everything later today.
I would suggest that you recheck all your seals and the bolts (retighten if needed).
I've driven it for only a few miles but I can already feel an improvement in power and it is quieter.
I would suggest that you recheck all your seals and the bolts (retighten if needed).
I've driven it for only a few miles but I can already feel an improvement in power and it is quieter.
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The factory system was badly rusted at the point where the mufflers mount to the y-pipe (which leaked exhaust and sound under the car rather than out the rear). Also, pieces of debris fell out of the old mufflers (so they were badly deteriorated, hence, they were more loud).
The sound of the new system is quite beautiful, and it compliments the car nicely. It's not race-loud, it has a burble-like sound to it.
The sound of the new system is quite beautiful, and it compliments the car nicely. It's not race-loud, it has a burble-like sound to it.
#5
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Yah, gotta like the Racing beat system. Did mine a bit a go. I just cut the bolts off.
Heres a link to pics.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=95834
Heres a link to pics.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=95834
#6
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I got mine done last week too. I have a RB TII system on my N/A. Went to a muffler shop and had the guy custom bend a pipe to match up to the TII pre-silencer. It sounds very very sweet. I couldent ask for a better tone. RB rules!
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#9
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Originally posted by Phr00t
Question: If I wanted to get the RB exhaust system, but I don't need to get cats as I live in Canada and we have no e-testing where I'm at, what would I get?
Question: If I wanted to get the RB exhaust system, but I don't need to get cats as I live in Canada and we have no e-testing where I'm at, what would I get?
#11
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i have the old school rb system on my car, and it really emphasizes the characteristic rotary sound. course, i alos have the header and hi-flow cat as well, so mine sounds a little different than your catback system. n1's make it a little louder too
#12
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Originally posted by trainwreck517
If your N/A just get a racing beat true dual system, aka road race exhuast system.
If your N/A just get a racing beat true dual system, aka road race exhuast system.
#13
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Originally posted by Kenteth
I thought this system was new? First time i saw there dual presilencer was last week...?
I thought this system was new? First time i saw there dual presilencer was last week...?
Or you can the get the new version at www.racingbeat.com
#14
So in total I would need to get the
Road Race Header
Road Race Presilencer
Road Race Y-Pipe
Road Race Muffler - Left
Road Race Muffler - Right
$1,065.00 In total?
Correct?
Also, the RB site says that the left and right mufflers are Optional? How would those be optional?
Road Race Header
Road Race Presilencer
Road Race Y-Pipe
Road Race Muffler - Left
Road Race Muffler - Right
$1,065.00 In total?
Correct?
Also, the RB site says that the left and right mufflers are Optional? How would those be optional?
Last edited by Phr00t; 06-05-04 at 04:38 PM.
#15
SUPERnaturally Aspirated
thats it phroot,
but if you are spending that much you may want to consider the kit that mazdatrix sells for 1200 or so which has dual presilencers, for a true true dual setup
http://mazdatrix.com/r-ex86nt.htm
they are optional if say you had the catback system, inwhich youd toss the y pipe and just use the existing muffs
but if you are spending that much you may want to consider the kit that mazdatrix sells for 1200 or so which has dual presilencers, for a true true dual setup
http://mazdatrix.com/r-ex86nt.htm
they are optional if say you had the catback system, inwhich youd toss the y pipe and just use the existing muffs
#19
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What the **** is up what your negative attitude bitch?
The title clearly states its an exhuast install write up, you shouldn't of even needed to read the thread if you got so much common sense and logic. ******* *****.
**by the way, nice and informative write for those doing their first exhuast install.
The title clearly states its an exhuast install write up, you shouldn't of even needed to read the thread if you got so much common sense and logic. ******* *****.
**by the way, nice and informative write for those doing their first exhuast install.
#20
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Re: Racing Beat N/T exhaust installation write-up
Originally posted by cluosborne
. . .
Jack up the rear of the car using the floor jack at the rear differential (you'll need to move the jack out of the way later). Place the jack stands under the rear suspension member.
. . .
. . .
Jack up the rear of the car using the floor jack at the rear differential (you'll need to move the jack out of the way later). Place the jack stands under the rear suspension member.
. . .
#21
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Originally posted by drft_180sx
What the **** is up what your negative attitude bitch?
The title clearly states its an exhuast install write up, you shouldn't of even needed to read the thread if you got so much common sense and logic. ******* *****.
**by the way, nice and informative write for those doing their first exhuast install.
What the **** is up what your negative attitude bitch?
The title clearly states its an exhuast install write up, you shouldn't of even needed to read the thread if you got so much common sense and logic. ******* *****.
**by the way, nice and informative write for those doing their first exhuast install.
#22
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Excuse me, I posted this writeup originally to provide information on how to install an exhaust system.
Opinions are fine, constructive critiscisms are fine (thank you for pointing out the possibility of breaking my diff mount, I've grown up since I posted this), but I won't take people bashing each other for trivial things, which is off-topic anyway.
As for retaining 5th/6th port operation, do a search and you'll find a few solutions.
Opinions are fine, constructive critiscisms are fine (thank you for pointing out the possibility of breaking my diff mount, I've grown up since I posted this), but I won't take people bashing each other for trivial things, which is off-topic anyway.
As for retaining 5th/6th port operation, do a search and you'll find a few solutions.
Last edited by cluosborne; 06-06-04 at 12:26 PM.
#23
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Originally posted by Net Seven
uhh ok... I guess opinions are against the rules. This is what happends when trashy people with low intelligence learn how to read. Any more more cuss words you would like to call me showing me how dumb you are?
uhh ok... I guess opinions are against the rules. This is what happends when trashy people with low intelligence learn how to read. Any more more cuss words you would like to call me showing me how dumb you are?
You started the non-sense with your childish diatribe. If you don't want to be flamed, do not act like a hubris, omnipotent, supercilious, ne’er-do-well.
#24
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Thread Starter
Ok, enough. I've already PM'd one of the moderators. I suggest that if anyone has conflicts you take outside this thread or just walk away. Stop right now.
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