RA super seals vs Goopy. Pros/Cons. what would you use?
02-21-13, 08:54 AM
#1
RA super seals vs Goopy. Pros/Cons. what would you use?
So I want to do a turbo s4 rebuild in the near future and I'm not sure what to go with.
Car will be a street car, daily driven- I'm on a budget so ra looks great to me but the reviews don't.
Seems like you can get a good batch of ra seals or a bad one, that or there are other variables contributing to the problems associated with excessive housing wear.
RA SuperSeals
Pros)
1)Very strong/Indesctructible
2)low price
Cons)
1)Mixed reviews
2)cause wear on housings unless heavy premix is used with good tuning
Goopy seals
Pros)
1) all good reviews
2) very strong, possibly indestructible
3)Probably don't need heavy premix
Cons)
1) higher price (about $100 more)
2)Not as strong as ra (I believe)
Rotary >Pistons
Car will be a street car, daily driven- I'm on a budget so ra looks great to me but the reviews don't.
Seems like you can get a good batch of ra seals or a bad one, that or there are other variables contributing to the problems associated with excessive housing wear.
RA SuperSeals
Pros)
1)Very strong/Indesctructible
2)low price
Cons)
1)Mixed reviews
2)cause wear on housings unless heavy premix is used with good tuning
Goopy seals
Pros)
1) all good reviews
2) very strong, possibly indestructible
3)Probably don't need heavy premix
Cons)
1) higher price (about $100 more)
2)Not as strong as ra (I believe)
Rotary >Pistons
02-21-13, 10:42 AM
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,802
Received 2,577 Likes
on
1,831 Posts
my opinion is that i'd run the OEM seals, they are about $365 a set, before taxes, if you get a good deal
the goopy seals are interesting, as they offer an oversize seals which is nice.
the Ra seals IMO have no place inside an engine.
the goopy seals are interesting, as they offer an oversize seals which is nice.
the Ra seals IMO have no place inside an engine.
02-21-13, 11:06 AM
#3
I've used both sets on the race car super seal is the way to go way better seal then goopy. If goopy breaks then say by to the turbo. Super seal only bend and never seen one break. Super seal do tend to wear housings slightly but its not something that will take away from reliability. Always premix ...
02-21-13, 11:48 AM
#4
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Gun Barrel City, Texas
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have just gone through the same scenario and looked at all available alternatives. My experience with RA are not good, but they were installed long ago (2005) with very low miles, they ate my housing badly.
Might be better today if you can get a fresh batch!? I also heard good things about Atkins and Goopy, but don’t forget OEM, I know that they are high $$, but have hundreds and hundreds of 100 000 miles under their belt, even the three pcs. Seals used by Mazda (considered by experts as junk) held up good. I just opened a series 5 T ll from -91 with 90,000 miles and the housing was in mint condition.
As a daily driver you will accumulate a lot of mile in a hurry and if you plan to keep the car for many years a few hundred dollars might be a drop in the ocean.
Mazda have used mill. of $$$ in R&D and QC, the aftermarket company who copy the OEM closest would be my choice, if we can find that out…
Might be better today if you can get a fresh batch!? I also heard good things about Atkins and Goopy, but don’t forget OEM, I know that they are high $$, but have hundreds and hundreds of 100 000 miles under their belt, even the three pcs. Seals used by Mazda (considered by experts as junk) held up good. I just opened a series 5 T ll from -91 with 90,000 miles and the housing was in mint condition.
As a daily driver you will accumulate a lot of mile in a hurry and if you plan to keep the car for many years a few hundred dollars might be a drop in the ocean.
Mazda have used mill. of $$$ in R&D and QC, the aftermarket company who copy the OEM closest would be my choice, if we can find that out…
02-21-13, 12:00 PM
#6
I've used both sets on the race car super seal is the way to go way better seal then goopy. If goopy breaks then say by to the turbo. Super seal only bend and never seen one break. Super seal do tend to wear housings slightly but its not something that will take away from reliability. Always premix ...
I've used most sets of seals and i only recommend OEM on stock or n/a applications. with modifications and a slight hiccup in your tuning you can say goodbye to the seals, a rotor and a housing if you're lucky.
i won't use RA seals for the simple fact that they only offered me free shipping, no bulk discounts or wholesale pricing. treating me like just another person off the street who's going to buy 1 set every 5 years or so.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 02-21-13 at 12:06 PM.
02-21-13, 12:04 PM
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,802
Received 2,577 Likes
on
1,831 Posts
Trending Topics
The following users liked this post:
latinFD (05-07-18)
02-21-13, 01:11 PM
#10
honestly i prefer Atkins seals over OEM in lower horsepower engines, in my experience they last about as long as OEM 2 piece seals and in the event of failure they generally cause the least amount of damage.
Banzai and IRP build their engines mainly with RA seals, you can contact them about their experiences with them.
Banzai and IRP build their engines mainly with RA seals, you can contact them about their experiences with them.
02-21-13, 01:22 PM
#11
honestly i prefer Atkins seals over OEM in lower horsepower engines, in my experience they last about as long as OEM 2 piece seals and in the event of failure they generally cause the least amount of damage.
Banzai and IRP build their engines mainly with RA seals, you can contact them about their experiences with them.
Banzai and IRP build their engines mainly with RA seals, you can contact them about their experiences with them.
Rotary >Pistons
02-21-13, 01:25 PM
#12
then sometimes it's better to sacrifice some rotor housing wear for reliability.
all the softer seals seem to rely heavily on the break in procedure. premix heavily and follow guidelines rather strictly and filter your intake well. once gouging starts it will not stop or go away, harder seals are better about preventing it from the start.
all the softer seals seem to rely heavily on the break in procedure. premix heavily and follow guidelines rather strictly and filter your intake well. once gouging starts it will not stop or go away, harder seals are better about preventing it from the start.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 02-21-13 at 01:27 PM.
02-21-13, 01:39 PM
#17
so, have you actually seen a set of Goopy seals break?
I've used most sets of seals and i only recommend OEM on stock or n/a applications. with modifications and a slight hiccup in your tuning you can say goodbye to the seals, a rotor and a housing if you're lucky.
i won't use RA seals for the simple fact that they only offered me free shipping, no bulk discounts or wholesale pricing. treating me like just another person off the street who's going to buy 1 set every 5 years or so.
I've used most sets of seals and i only recommend OEM on stock or n/a applications. with modifications and a slight hiccup in your tuning you can say goodbye to the seals, a rotor and a housing if you're lucky.
i won't use RA seals for the simple fact that they only offered me free shipping, no bulk discounts or wholesale pricing. treating me like just another person off the street who's going to buy 1 set every 5 years or so.
Goopy- Are good unless you run into serious detonation, if they break their going through the turbo.
Atkins- Ideal for N/a or stock
Super seal- Seal fast reduce break in time, will take abuse of detonation, high boost friendly but wear housing in a quicker paced.
ALs - more expensive but a great seal overall and unbreakable.
Their some seals from Australia but can't remember the brand but their the best in market but cost about $1000.00 but just can't remember the name.
@ the least minimum I would recommend Atkins before I would install OEM Mazda Apex seals but hey that's how I do it every builder is different but I've used them all in my personal cars.
02-21-13, 01:45 PM
#19
then sometimes it's better to sacrifice some rotor housing wear for reliability.
all the softer seals seem to rely heavily on the break in procedure. premix heavily and follow guidelines rather strictly and filter your intake well. once gouging starts it will not stop or go away, harder seals are better about preventing it from the start.
all the softer seals seem to rely heavily on the break in procedure. premix heavily and follow guidelines rather strictly and filter your intake well. once gouging starts it will not stop or go away, harder seals are better about preventing it from the start.
I can definitely relate to what your saying here from all the years of experience that's what it comes down too.
Last edited by Samito Built; 02-21-13 at 01:47 PM.
02-21-13, 02:01 PM
#21
you would have to ask RA about the differences, i would suspect the classics are for lower power applications and are a more brittle(hard) blend of metals that last longer at the cost of durability in the event of detonation. ie the classics are more breakable, which is why most everyone goes with the super seal.
02-21-13, 02:05 PM
#22
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Gun Barrel City, Texas
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-21-13, 03:20 PM
#23
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,802
Received 2,577 Likes
on
1,831 Posts
i go to the dealership... my price before tax is $60 a seal, $360 for 6. i would imagine that somebody like Malloy Mazda would quote a price close to that.
02-21-13, 03:23 PM
#24
Well, it's probably to early to tell...but my engine was built with Super Seals apexes, Atkins solid corner seals. My last engine was a stock refurb with 78,000 miles on it and was plum wore out and I blew it up besides that...broke a corner seal during a detonation event. And yes, I've had a few on the new engine and it's still ok at the moment.
I have about 5,000 on this engine and it starts and runs better than it ever did... running 14.5 lbs of boost.
I have about 5,000 on this engine and it starts and runs better than it ever did... running 14.5 lbs of boost.
