rotorpower27

Racing beat?
or
Suspension Techniques?

what company is better, ride quality ect?

thanks

Mechanic

you know you are going to get a "search" response, let me be the first.

Aside from that, these are personal prefrence. I would like to get tanabe products .

From the looks of the specs, the ST will give your car a little more oversteer than the RB one, I have no clue as to if this is true or not, as I have no personal experience.

Most of the stuff I see RB make for suspension is pretty high quality, but... ST is used by many, so its hard to say.

Go with the cheaper one

Black91n/a

True, the ST will have a much more oversteer biased setup, the front bar is also adjustable on the S4 ST bar, whereas the RB bars are non-adjustable.

I know from experiance that with the RB bars it does understeer, but it's a very safe setup as it won't let you get into trouble as easily.

There's really not going to be anything other than stiffness and adjustability to differentiate sways, there's really not much if any reduction in ride quality with bigger sways.

Node

iTrader: (1)

Swaybars control the roll.
From my understanding the ride is almost entirely dependent on the damper. Good damper=good ride. Like Konis are just awesome as far as just a strut type addition.

Like the zeals have super stiff springs and are liveable on the streets, where as you try some stiff springs from some cheapy ebay coilover and you'll have such kidney pains from shitty damping.


Japanese more often set up their coilovers/suspension w/ very stiff springs front and rear and use stock swaybars, and americans set up slightly softer springrates but w/ thicker/stiffer sway bars.

I've still to set up my suspension on my T2, so this is all just what I've heard/read from friends and read on the forum, etc.


And one last bit about swaybars. I saqw somewhere (don't remember) that you should use swaybars to fine tune your suspension when it is all set up. Not something to do while still putting it together.

Hope some of my forum regurgitation may help.
-Ben Martin

rotorpower27

on the ST bars, the front bar is adjustable in what way?
how does this help?

thanks, for the long quick response

Black91n/a

Adjustable in that there's two holes to bolt the endlink to. This helps to tune the car's balance (oversteer vs. understeer). Shorter arm = stiffer.

rotorpower27

wow, thats perfect.

are there any cheap, end links, maybe non adjustable, or new busings for the stock end links?

LAN

iTrader: (1)

Don't be cheap about it. Get the RB EndLinks.
I heard the ST are slightly bigger than the RB or TANABE. Buy Front & rear with endlinks.

I have the Tanabe/Rb FrontRear SwayBars: FrontRear StrutBars: Endlinks: CoilOvers. Sweet Handling.. Forget it. . .


--> SWAY BARS

-->CoilOvers

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I guess I prescribe to the Japaneese style of suspention. I have very stiff coilovers with a stock front and no rear sway bar, but there is virtually no body roll. And as Node said, by using good quality dampers the ride is still pretty reasonable.

Sgt. Pepper

I have KYB AGX on medium setting and Tanabe GF210 springs. Good adjustable shocks and nice stiff springs. Both have only a few K miles on them and i'm getting body roll up the *** with my stock sway bars on my 89 GXL.
You can see it all to well in my autoX video http://media.putfile.com/RX-7-AutoX

I'm looking for sway bars but I heard a lot of people run with no rear bar on the track because a thick rear bar will produce understeer and I don't need anymore of that. I may just try a RB front bar and stock rear with RB endlinks on front and rear bars...

Silverfc88

iTrader: (7)

I thought is was the other way around, bigger rear bar equals more oversteer.


I have the ST rear bar and I like it, but I have no experience with RB bars so sorry... The ST bar is the thickest and you can get it from Summit for fairly cheap.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...061+115+400279

scathcart

Another option, which I much prefer, is to make your own endlinks using male and female metric spherical rod ends and some spacers. These will allow the suspension to work as intended, without the bind that is induced by polyurethane bushings. Going one step further, you can get them with grease nipples, and use seals-it metric rod end seals so the **** lasts forever.
This is a cheaper option, better option, but requires a lot more work and thought, so its not for everyone.

http://www.aurorabearing.com/product...c/default.html
http://www.sealsit.com/rodend.asp

Black91n/a

http://www.gearheadsgarage.com/ForSa.../endlinks.html

I got my endlinks from this guy. They're top quality Aurora endlinks and he inculdes everything you need.

dvsmode

how much did you pau for a complete set of the links? I don't see any prices.

Black91n/a

I paid $60 a pair for mine (need 2 pairs to do the whole car), cheaper than Mazdatrix or Racing Beat, but apparently he upped the prices slightly, email him to find out.

slow_2ed_gen

i have the RB front and rear and their such a matched set my car corners with no body roll even with stock endlinks. you can really tell racing beat put alot of R&D tme into them, like all their parts

their my favorite mod i've done with my car

Black91n/a

To have no body roll you'd need infinite stiffness in the suspension and tires. That's not possible.

SpooledupRacing

what are u planning to do with the car? auto X, street drive, daily drive, drift all which will give u DIFFERENT feelings with different bars

I think the best thing is to figure what u want to do with the car

slow_2ed_gen

i daily drive azenis 615's their prity stiff

maybe not exactly zero body roll, but very close. the car handels crazy i love it

rotorpower27

its just a DD, but i would like my limitation on traction to be my tires not the body roll.
i just purchased the ST bars off summit.