quick!! how much of a pain in the arse is it?
Thread Starter
Damaged Little F*cker
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 840
Likes: 0
From: High Point, North Carolina
quick!! how much of a pain in the **** is it?
to take off the oil pan on a T2 when the motor is in the car? it looks kinda tough. i got an oil leak coming from my oil pa gasket and i need to fix it pronto. i want to get it done today so a speedy response to this post would be nice.
yikes... how about "A major PITA" 
You'll have to jack up the car and figure out some way to support the engine and get its weight off of the motor mounts. If you can figure out how to do that, It shouldn't be too bad (remove bolts / 'pry' the pan off)
Good luck!,
Manolis
You'll have to jack up the car and figure out some way to support the engine and get its weight off of the motor mounts. If you can figure out how to do that, It shouldn't be too bad (remove bolts / 'pry' the pan off)
Good luck!,
Manolis
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
It's a pretty annoying thing to do. I just finished it...The steps are simple, but working under there is awkward.
Support the transmission close to the engine with a jack and block of wood, then remove the passenger side engine mount. Now, using a 10MM socket and 10MM swivel, remove the oil pan bolts. Using the jack to slightly raise the engine will help.
To put the pan back on, use RTV sealent to secure the gasket to the pan...ie...Run a bead of RTV along both sides of the gasket. With one hand, palm the pan and push it onto the engine. You may need to wiggle (the pan) slightly to get it over the anti-sway bar. Put a bolt in each corner of the pan loosly and then intall the engine mount. You will probably need to fuss with the height of the engine to get the mount to line up. Leave the mount loose until the oil pan is totally bolted up (tighten each bolt to 11LBs) and then tighten up the mount to engine bolts (49-60 LB) and the mount to frame bolts (just hella tight).
That's about it. Don't forget to remove the electrical connectors before you remove the pan, and be prepared to be frustrated.
Support the transmission close to the engine with a jack and block of wood, then remove the passenger side engine mount. Now, using a 10MM socket and 10MM swivel, remove the oil pan bolts. Using the jack to slightly raise the engine will help.
To put the pan back on, use RTV sealent to secure the gasket to the pan...ie...Run a bead of RTV along both sides of the gasket. With one hand, palm the pan and push it onto the engine. You may need to wiggle (the pan) slightly to get it over the anti-sway bar. Put a bolt in each corner of the pan loosly and then intall the engine mount. You will probably need to fuss with the height of the engine to get the mount to line up. Leave the mount loose until the oil pan is totally bolted up (tighten each bolt to 11LBs) and then tighten up the mount to engine bolts (49-60 LB) and the mount to frame bolts (just hella tight).
That's about it. Don't forget to remove the electrical connectors before you remove the pan, and be prepared to be frustrated.
Haven't we ALL heard this
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,948
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
It would also be a good time to evualte your engine mounts. Check to see if the rubber is torn or destroyed. Easy to replace them with the oil pan out and the engine supported.
Also, clean the engine mating surface and the oil pan mating surface very well. I used a wire brush that worked great. Also check to make sure you didnt bend the oil pan flange.
James
Also, clean the engine mating surface and the oil pan mating surface very well. I used a wire brush that worked great. Also check to make sure you didnt bend the oil pan flange.
James
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