Question on replacing coolant seal.
07-25-09, 08:44 PM
#1
In the shade
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Question on replacing coolant seal.
Do I really have to rebuild my engine if it's just a coolant seal? I see how yes I would already be on the inside of the engine and many people would say you might as well rebuild, but couldn't I just pull the rear housing and replace the seal? I haven't ever pulled a rotary engine, I've just been going over the haynes manual that's why I am asking, because it seems like a straight forward process.
07-25-09, 10:58 PM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well... seeing as the rear housing is the first housing you assemble... looks to me like ur dismantling your whole engine sry to say. make sure those COOLANT GROVES ARE RELAY CLEAN!!!. i just rebuild mine due to the oil control ring 
but i would inspect all the parts if internals are within the factory specs then just get a basic gasket set and get oil control ring set are they are cheap and will save you from troubles down the road use loads of Vaseline get the name brand stuff not the cheap stuff. and lube that engine up good once the block is all cleaned up and lubed ur looking at around 1hour to re assemble it. make sure u torque that front bearing properly as it could lead to bad news. if i think my best advice to you would be GET one of THOSE http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/home.php?cat=707
it will walk u through all the steps u need Aaron cake lent me his..... witch i need to return some day :O sry Aaron
Good luck, PS i figure u know this but dont run that engine with a coolant leak it will cost u more down the road
but i would inspect all the parts if internals are within the factory specs then just get a basic gasket set and get oil control ring set are they are cheap and will save you from troubles down the road
use loads of Vaseline get the name brand stuff not the cheap stuff. and lube that engine up good once the block is all cleaned up and lubed ur looking at around 1hour to re assemble it. make sure u torque that front bearing properly as it could lead to bad news. if i think my best advice to you would be GET one of THOSE http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/home.php?cat=707it will walk u through all the steps u need Aaron cake lent me his..... witch i need to return some day :O sry Aaron
Good luck, PS i figure u know this but dont run that engine with a coolant leak it will cost u more down the road
07-26-09, 01:23 AM
#4
In the shade
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well... seeing as the rear housing is the first housing you assemble... looks to me like ur dismantling your whole engine sry to say. make sure those COOLANT GROVES ARE RELAY CLEAN!!!. i just rebuild mine due to the oil control ring
but i would inspect all the parts if internals are within the factory specs then just get a basic gasket set and get oil control ring set are they are cheap and will save you from troubles down the road use loads of Vaseline get the name brand stuff not the cheap stuff. and lube that engine up good once the block is all cleaned up and lubed ur looking at around 1hour to re assemble it. make sure u torque that front bearing properly as it could lead to bad news. if i think my best advice to you would be GET one of THOSE http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/home.php?cat=707
it will walk u through all the steps u need Aaron cake lent me his..... witch i need to return some day :O sry Aaron
Good luck, PS i figure u know this but dont run that engine with a coolant leak it will cost u more down the road
but i would inspect all the parts if internals are within the factory specs then just get a basic gasket set and get oil control ring set are they are cheap and will save you from troubles down the road
use loads of Vaseline get the name brand stuff not the cheap stuff. and lube that engine up good once the block is all cleaned up and lubed ur looking at around 1hour to re assemble it. make sure u torque that front bearing properly as it could lead to bad news. if i think my best advice to you would be GET one of THOSE http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/home.php?cat=707it will walk u through all the steps u need Aaron cake lent me his..... witch i need to return some day :O sry Aaron
Good luck, PS i figure u know this but dont run that engine with a coolant leak it will cost u more down the road
07-26-09, 02:25 AM
#6
I'd just do a full rebuild while you have engine out and basically apart. The extra cost of a complete rebuild kit vs a set of water seals is kind of offputting, but the way I see it; you'll have to do a full rebuild eventually (assuming you plan on keeping the car) so might as well do it all now, rather than pulling the engine twice.
07-26-09, 10:48 AM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd just do a full rebuild while you have engine out and basically apart. The extra cost of a complete rebuild kit vs a set of water seals is kind of offputting, but the way I see it; you'll have to do a full rebuild eventually (assuming you plan on keeping the car) so might as well do it all now, rather than pulling the engine twice.
thats if you dont have to pass E-test lol
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
