Question about BAC, Set Jumper, VR
Question about BAC, Set Jumper, VR
Ok im trying to get the idle to even out a bit here.
I just put in a rebuilt engine so im putting the idle at about 1500.
Now heres what i'm wondering, when i set the initial set jumper, if i mess with the Variable Resistor will it affect my mixture at this 1500 rpm "idle" speed? I got hte impression it only effects on ~750 rpm.
Same question for the bac, will it adust right for such a high idle?
I just put in a rebuilt engine so im putting the idle at about 1500.
Now heres what i'm wondering, when i set the initial set jumper, if i mess with the Variable Resistor will it affect my mixture at this 1500 rpm "idle" speed? I got hte impression it only effects on ~750 rpm.
Same question for the bac, will it adust right for such a high idle?
Re: Question about BAC, Set Jumper, VR
Originally posted by 88 SE
Ok im trying to get the idle to even out a bit here.
I just put in a rebuilt engine so im putting the idle at about 1500.
Now heres what i'm wondering, when i set the initial set jumper, if i mess with the Variable Resistor will it affect my mixture at this 1500 rpm "idle" speed? I got hte impression it only effects on ~750 rpm.
Same question for the bac, will it adust right for such a high idle?
Ok im trying to get the idle to even out a bit here.
I just put in a rebuilt engine so im putting the idle at about 1500.
Now heres what i'm wondering, when i set the initial set jumper, if i mess with the Variable Resistor will it affect my mixture at this 1500 rpm "idle" speed? I got hte impression it only effects on ~750 rpm.
Same question for the bac, will it adust right for such a high idle?
Idle speed is a function of the Variable Resistor and the air mix screw (under the black cap on top of the TB). The motor needs to be warmed up, and the initial set needs to be jumpered.
If you are manually setting your idle to 1500, you may want to hold off on setting your mix till you are done breaking in the motor.
I dont think that the variable resistor will work for you at 1500, because the ECU doesnt think you are at IDLE. Could be wrong on this point, I am gonna read the FSM on this.
Rat
I think THE RAT is right about the variable resistor. Its only usefull at idle. Have you ever noticed when using a timing light on this car, that at aproxx 1100 rpm the ECU automatically advances the timeing several degrees??? Thats why I say that at 1500, the ECU does not think your at idle anymore, therefore the variable resistor has no effect. My story and I'm sticking with it.
The BAC? If you install the initial set coupler it defaults to a set duty cycle. Thats done so that when you set your idle, the BAC will not try to make corrections while your doing your fiddling around. Make senses? Yes. Then when the initial set coupler is removed, its reactivated and will try to maintain a 750 idle. IF you already have set a idle above 750 (1500), you'll never notice the BAC doing anything. Your already waaaay above 750.
When you finally break the engine in, and try to set the idle at 750, you'll have the initial set coupler installed which will null the bac out as long as its in. Try to set your idle as close as you can to 750 when you doe this, so the bac will not have to work so hard to maintain a 750 idle(after the initial set coupler is removed).
From above remarks, you can see how you should not try to set your timing until the rpm is well below 1100/1200 rpm . Preferably around 750/
The BAC? If you install the initial set coupler it defaults to a set duty cycle. Thats done so that when you set your idle, the BAC will not try to make corrections while your doing your fiddling around. Make senses? Yes. Then when the initial set coupler is removed, its reactivated and will try to maintain a 750 idle. IF you already have set a idle above 750 (1500), you'll never notice the BAC doing anything. Your already waaaay above 750.
When you finally break the engine in, and try to set the idle at 750, you'll have the initial set coupler installed which will null the bac out as long as its in. Try to set your idle as close as you can to 750 when you doe this, so the bac will not have to work so hard to maintain a 750 idle(after the initial set coupler is removed).
From above remarks, you can see how you should not try to set your timing until the rpm is well below 1100/1200 rpm . Preferably around 750/
THE RAT....was made in good humor and I knew you would take in that fashion (I don't hold it against you that you think I have alzheimers. Not one moment). Touche! Jarret. P.S. Rat, did you see the post I made today suggesting the fellow doing brake work leave some screws out????? I have no shame.
Originally posted by HAILERS
THE RAT....was made in good humor and I knew you would take in that fashion (I don't hold it against you that you think I have alzheimers. Not one moment). Touche! Jarret. P.S. Rat, did you see the post I made today suggesting the fellow doing brake work leave some screws out????? I have no shame.
THE RAT....was made in good humor and I knew you would take in that fashion (I don't hold it against you that you think I have alzheimers. Not one moment). Touche! Jarret. P.S. Rat, did you see the post I made today suggesting the fellow doing brake work leave some screws out????? I have no shame.
88 SE,
I assume your idle is high for the break-in period..Correct?
Jarrett
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