Well, when putting on new break pads, you have to push that piston thingy back in so the caliper will fit back on the pads. Well, after a **** ton of pushing on it, and got a gigantic c-clamp on it and started to break it before we gave up....it's not even near far enough. My guess is I got to get a new caliper to fix this *hopefully not...maybe I'm doing something wrong?* I know we didn't bleed the breaks or anything. We have the resevoir open, but it's just not moving anymore. We got it pushed in a good deal, we just have alot ot go.. am I doing something horribly wrong?

 

You need the proper tool for the job. In this case a pusher (not sure of the exact term). Mine doubles as a steering wheel puller. But do you mean you actually cracked the caliper? If that's the case then you need a new one.

 

nono, the c-clamp is what is bending a bit *THE lever thingy at the back of it* It's just not moving enough. We hae like 2cm to go, I swear to god...it's just go thtat little bit to go. The caliper I'm wondering is broke....since it's not moving as easy as I thought it should

 

The piston on the back brakes need to be compressed using a tool that screws them down (any auto store), on the fronts a clamp should be fine if you have the bleeder valves open, but the main line is open if they are off the car so you should be fine. Good Luck!

 

these are the back breaks, now why won't a c-clamp work? What is this specific tool I need? I've never seen/heard of it. \=

 

Dont bother pushing they do not push they screw, you see the two little indentions on the piston, the tool fits in there and you screw them back, I have one its called a piston compressor its $5 at the auto store

 

You don't COMPRESS the Brake Piston on the BACK brakes..you use a BRAKE BLOCK..it is a small block like looking thing and has Dimples,that go onto the Face of the brake piston.It has a 3/8 Inch Hole for the Extension of your Rachet(socket set).It SCREWS the piston IN so that you can have enough Room to mount the caliper onto the Rotor.You will be sitting there All day long trying to Press the Piston In.

 

I had the same problem when I first did my back brakes. In the Haynes manual it says to use some needle nose pliers and "twist" the piston back into the caliper. Well, after being on there for 20 years its a bit more work to get it back. Go down to the autoparts store and tell the guy you have an import and need to twist the brake piston back into place. He'll hook you up with some cube looking thing with varied dimples and blocks that hooks up to a 3/8' inch socket wrench. I suggest wearing some mechanics gloves when you do this because you will frag your knuckles.

 

The tool you need is like 6 bucks at ANY auto store. Just walk in there and say "I'm doing my breaks and I need to push the piston back". They'll know what you need.</thread>

 

the back has actuated calipers, you can either buy an actuated caliper tool or you can take a pair of channel locks and grab the crown of the piston to turn it in... clockwise goes into the caliper, counter clockwise makes the piston come out... when you're done make sure the piston is adjusted out to where there isnt a lot of play between the caliper and the pads or your ebrake will work like crap and the brake pedal will feel soft... if you cant get the piston to turn you either need to have the caliper rebuilt or it uses an adjusting screw on the back of the caliper that pulls the piston in... if you have any problems pm me and ill be glad to help

- your neighborhood friendly Just Brakes Certified Brake Safety Expert

 

Wow.... You guys have so many convoluted ways of doing breaks... just buy the stupid compressor tool and be done with it. Its less than 10 bucks!

 

AND:

 

Its the REAR brakes you MORON. You cant use a C-Clamp because they have to be SCREWED back when retracted.

I personally use needle nose pliers, but a brake block is the preferred method.

 

that tool wont work on the rear calipers

 

The black one will for sure as that's what I was trying to describe.

 

BTW you need to position the the indentions on the piston back so they fit into the back of the brake pad ( back of pad has nipples that fit into the piston indentions), dont screw that up...been there done that.

 

yep thats my bad i hit reply before the last picture loaded

 

wow..

:AA:

 

Whoops. Didn't realize they were the back brakes.. My bad.

However.. I did post pictures to the correct tools... The first tool is for the fronts.. works like a charm.. the second tool I use for the rear... .works great.

Yeah yeah yeah. **** off.

 

Just get needle nose plyers, place each end of the plyers into the indentations, turn a half a turn, push it in, turn it some more, push it in some more.

Do that until the desired outcome has been achieved.

 

Alright, so after a lot of work, and now we are done chaging out my Metering Oil Pump, we think we are done working for the night! Sorry for the delay. I went down to O'rilies *spelling?* and they had that little square tool for 12 bucks. I figured I'd just buy it and get it done and over with. So yeah, they screw, it's amazing. Thanks for all the help guys. Hopefully this will help anybody who has any questions

 

I got mine to work with a 6inch C clamp and taking the brake fluid cap off. Hopefully I didnt mess anything up.

 

You're going to be lucky if you didn't **** up your parking brake.


Next time, check the FSM, use the search, or get a haynes manual or something instead of posting about an OBVIOUS problem that makes you look like an idiot.

 

The parking break works fine...the master cylinder recently started to go out though (loss of breaking pressure) I drove the car to get the breaks checked/done using the e-break to stop and it seemed to work fine. I went on the forum to figure out how to get clearance (and I did tell them it was my rear breaks) and they told me to use a c-clamp (Il try to find the thread). I hope I didnt mess anything up...what else could it have done?

 

I just went to AutoZone, bought the little 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square tool, had all sorts of rear caliper items on each side...put it on as a socket, and went to town. Worked perfectly.