Ive done some searching, and a couple of threads really dont cover this. Im getting back into the FC world, so please forgive me, ive been reading countless hours of the FAQ and using the Search button, so i apologize for what im about to do. Im going to eliminate my A/C, P/S, and my A/P, does anybody make a pulley/belt system that can work for all this? Also, do i need any kind of block of plate kits? I would assume yes on the blockoffs, but where can they be purchased? One more question as well. If i remove the A/P, will it be ok to run a RacingBeat True Dual exhaust system without worrying about the ports situation? My car is a 1987 5Spd GXL incase anybody was woundering.

 

Ive removed my AC so far...but aside from that, really couldnt tell you what you have to do. If you have any questions about the AC removal, ask me.

 

i know if your remove your AP you will deffinitly want a Dual Alt. Pully..
i got mine cheap from a guy on nopistons.com.. works GREAT! it was only like $19 after that you can take some of the extra pully's off..

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=59230

^^ that is where i got mine.

you might need to remove your ACV not sure or if you even have to.. which will require a block off plate. but other than that i will be good to go.

for power sterring you will need to get some bolts to plug up the holes on the power steering rack. inless you go manual steering rack.

but other then that you should be good..

 

There was a GB on this until the end of november, might be more left:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=594183

 

Ok thanks about the pulleys guys. I'll look into that GB to see if he has any left. Anybody want to answer the exhaust question?

 

The AC and PS can be removed without any penalties as far as the belts go.

When you remove the AP, the water pump has insufficient belt contact, so a dual alt pulley can fix that, or you can move the alt to where the AC and PS were using the bracket from Pineapple Racing.

I don't beleive the true duals have a tube for the split air pipe which will activate the ports. You can wire them open and suffer a loss in low rpm power, or rig up a custom system using an electric pump (search electic aux ports). When removing the AP you might as well remove the ACV and block it off and remove any other stuff connected to it.

 

Is their any way to get the true duals with the tube for the split air pipe? Also, when can i find a block off plate for the ACV, do i not need one for the air pump?

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/r-ex86nt.htm
On the 1986-88 13B 6-Port engines, the auxiliary intake actuators are operated by backpressure from the exhaust system. This header features a backpressure pick-up tube that allows for the correct operation of the 6-port actuators. So it will work then, correct? The true dual system has that "backpressure pick-up tube" so im going for it.

 

I have never found those exhaust backpressure things to work, on neither of my exhaust setups! So i have the ports activating from my air pump, and it works flawlessly
But since you are removing that, you might even want to look into activating them electronically. (hint: Rotary Resurrection has a good writeup)

 

Gilmer kit

http://www.xtremerotaries.com/main2/products/misc.htm

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...elec6port.html

I am sure you have seen it but there is the link. Alot of good write-ups on there. On the NA's I have worked on most of those don't even work right or the actuators are stuck. Might double check and make sure they are operating correctly and if so do the electric conversion.

Mike

 

I use electronic 6 port mod... it's fine when it works, but I've had random **** go wrong with it like a melted hose (although I should've used silicone...) and several fried relays. Radioshack relays suck ***** in my experience. Also make sure you use the right pump. A cadillac or Lincoln air suspension pump works best (I use Lincoln Mk VIII pump).

 

A gilmer drive is totally unecessary, dual belts or a relocated alternator is more than enough to prevent belt slipping. The gilmer drive will just be noisier, harder to get belts for and so on. So, you get disadvantages with no advantages, pretty silly thing to do IMHO.

 

On a similar note, does anyone know if the FD pulleys work on the FC's crank, water pump, and using an FD alt? Reason being is for a future project I NEED a serpentine setup.

 

Disregard my Q, found the answer.

 

Planning on adding a supercharger are we?

 

I plead the fifth?

/ thread jacking.