felixwankel88

well overheating waz my problem, i never over heated it, but i did the coolent seal test and failed terriblily.. so the engine is bad.. i have no clue to do... i have NO cash to fix it i still owe 500 to my dad 4 the first rebuild.. i so stressed... it smokes lots of white smoke... should i say kjust **** it(im really close) and sell it and looks like 4k that i put into it.. or should i part it.. or save and save and save and fix it some day.... my dreams of that being my first car is OVER...



peace


Dustin

ScrappyDoo

iTrader: (7)

I have been followign your threads when possible and you have been an inspiration to me as an older fart. Don't give up, take it apart and do it again. Most of what you have in there will be reusable and the soft seals you need shouldn't cost that much. Chin up, you'll have two rebuilds under your belt at 15, way ahead of the game.

felixwankel88

if i fail onece i may fail again.... i dont trust my self

neu

yo, dustin... dont stress it man... there are always set backs here and there... they seem shitty at first, but just take some time to work on it when you're not as frustrated.. 9 times outta 10 it's not as bad as you thought it would be.... trust me, i've been there and hell im sure you've been there

SAiamNE

Don't throw away your whole car just because of some simple seals. You have put a TON of work into that thing.
If your tight on cash just maybe buy the coolent seals and leave everything else as is. It shouldn't cost that much. More time consuming than anything..
You can't be scared to work on stuff... I'm a Heavy Equipment Tech and i was once like you and told myself " I can't do that, what i do it wrong". Now i'm overhauling big diesel engines and hydralic pumps for a living and loving it. Your never gonna learn anything unless you make mistakes and get dirty (I love magic school bus haha).

scathcart

What brand of coolant seals did you use?

Garoad

buddha always says what we think, we become.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

At least your trying and doing it yourself. Tear it apart and see what's wrong. Just time and can't cost that much. Your young and learning. You'll learn from your mistakes, and you'll do
better the next time. Keep the threads coming!

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

keep on it, you did excellent on your first rebuild, **** happens, so far your ahead of so many people on this forum its not even funny

zero83

iTrader: (7)

Hey, what can I say it happens. You've done what many 7 owners do not even attempt to do. Oh and don't worry, I think we have all given up on our cars plenty of times.

gonzz

Just get a o-ring kit

mack123

iTrader: (4)

keep on with the car, just take a long breather and even walk away from it for a couple of days to clear your head or whatever and the bug to start in on it again will return. Youve got a pic of felix wankel on your posts, just think how many times he failed until he got it right,and he never gave up.
It just makes you a better mechanic in the end.

jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

Don't give up! You have put too much work into that car to throw it away, and you are so close to seeing it completed. Just take a breather and calm down. You can fix the thing, its just soft seals.

KingCobraV9

iTrader: (2)

hey now dont throw in the towel cuz of a coolent seal. ok so you neen just new coolent seals but u dont even know if you need those. you might have just put one on wrong and it slid over a lil on re assembly. take it appart and check it out. hell you know better than allot of the people on here that this stuff takes time and energy. unless you get your licence in like 3 weeks i would say that you have every chance in the world of it being your first car. dont give up. take it appeart and look closly at the coolent seals as you go and see if you just miss alined one and fix it !! if you blew it out the get a new one. ide say as long as you didnt overheat it just new coolent seals will be ifne IF you even need those. stick with it dont give up

Peruvianrx7

iTrader: (25)

bro dont look down. I fucked up my first rebuild at 18. I spend over 6k on parts including new maiantance **** and fucked my housings and apex seals... 1000 bucks late ri fixed it and now im beating rsxs type s. and im n/a

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

no... that sucks...

A bit of practical info; I just had to buy some new water-jacket seals because when I pulled my *failed* rebuild apart, 2 of the inner/smaller ones broke when I was seperating the irons/housings, and one of the outer/bigger seals broke as well. The smaller ones were $28 apiece and the larger ones were about $10 apiece.

SO, if you have to buy all new water-jacket seals, that's how much they'll cost...

BTW, I dumped out all the peanuts in the box you shipped the taillights in, and I found several plastic fragments from that chipped off piece I was telling you about. I'm not sure if I'll be able to repair it because it's really fragmented, but I'll do my best.

Worst case senario, you'll have to replace several of the water-jacket seals (hopefully that's your problem).

Sorry buddy.

felixwankel88

Fusking POS RA SEALS never again willl i buy there coolents seals, if i ever buy colent seals again

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Don't worry. Atleast it wasn't an apex seal or somethign which will tear up then engine on the way out.

You still have a very good chance that everything(but the coolant seals) are intact and useable.

Hate to say it but pull the engine and take it apart.

I've heard good things about the Teflon coolant seals. I forgot who made them though. They say they seal better than traditional and take more heat.

Good luck man.

scathcart

well... here's the deal.
I haven't had good luck using the RA teflon encapsulated coolant seals, and I am not the only one. I refuse to use a hardening sealer for the coolant seals, and I don't round seal is well-fitted to a square groove.
I have had engines give identical coolant-seal issues as to what you are heaving, and after taking the engine apart, find no actual issues with the engine build.

Since then, every engine I build has used Mazda coolant seals, and I haven't had an issue since, following identical build practices.



All that being said, to replace the coolant seals alone on your engine is about $110 in Mazda parts; you won't need to replace any of the hard parts. If you need it, I will buy the parts for you and mail them to you; I would hate to see you give up on your project: You remind me of myself, I rebuilt my first rotary at the age of 15.

scathcart

[QUOTE=Digi7ech]I've heard good things about the Teflon coolant seals. I forgot who made them though. They say they seal better than traditional and take more heat.
QUOTE]

Round seals in a square bore... this is the exact reason why "Banzai" John made his own coolant seals: he experienced an identical problem on a Pineapple rebuild at 5000 miles.

ScrappyDoo

iTrader: (7)

Now that is a gentleman, I'll kick in 20 bucks if you need it. I'm still a law student or I'd give you more.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i said it you once and ill post it here for you to see again.

my first attempt at rebuilding my engine failed miserably, ran for about 10 minutes then flooded. tore it down and found an iron slightly out of spec, got a couple off a forum member and tried again, this time it wouldn't even start(you know how shitty this makes you feel?). tore it down a third time and pressure tested the cooling system while the engine was out of the car and found coolant coming from inside the exhaust port sleeve in #1 and right out of the trailing plug hole on #2. i tried a temporary fix, the engine ran great for about 4k miles then it coolant flooded and wouldn't start, failure of the patch job: (a local rotary mechanic said the housings could not be heli-arc welded due to their porosity and that JB weld would hold, he was wrong).

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=weld+friend

my 4th time (current) i replaced the faulty rotor housings and reused my end irons that in fact were within spec, the motor has 1k miles on it and currently has the turbo off it for a wastegate port job/turbo porting/twin scroll removal. the engine ran good up until i pulled the turbo off and i don't expect it to fail anytime in the near future knowing what i know about the internals of a rotary now.

of the 4 rebuilds, i only replaced the coolant seals on the last rebuild, they were fully reusable on the previous ones but i felt that 3 tear downs was enough and put them to rest. the rebuild cost little to nothing to do so it doesn't hurt to just go for it and put the effort in and keep at it.


this goes to show that even a seasoned mechanic can make simple mistakes on a rotary, with time comes experience, i hope you don't give up so easily.

felixwankel88

i could never accept free parts.. i just wouldent feel rite...

Dom_C

keep with it bud, i'm 18 and will be rebuilding my first rotary in a month or two. Don't give up yet. I ahve wanted to junk my car somany times but then i remember the feeling i get when driving it. . You all know that feeling. i would hate for you not to ever get that feeling, you need to drive that car. pull the engine (not a hard task) rip it apart and carfully inspect everylast bit of it. give it a couple days you'll be right back into her. go for it bud
Dom

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

i feel the same way, however i also feel that you deserve the free parts at this point and then some

someone start a donation for him towards his re-re-build!