Progress Pics of my Widebody Turbo Vert
10-02-05, 06:41 PM
#101
Mad Man
Hey Dave, with all the power you will be making why didn't you go wide enough to run 335s all around? The car is prone to understeer, even with same size all around, wider fronts would allow lower spring rates making it a nicer street ride. The car looks very nice, how did they form the side skirts? Hopefully they removed enough of the stock body to drop the car enough. That is the one frustration I have with mine, I just cannot get it as low as I would like. Anyway, I look forward to seeing it, mine has become quite the diamond in the rough, courtesey of a couple hundred track miles. When I repaint this winter, I will be sure and use the protective tape, there not alot of paint left on my flares
If I can get out the driveway of the hotel we'll have to go cruising at SS8. See you soon, Carl
If I can get out the driveway of the hotel we'll have to go cruising at SS8. See you soon, Carl
10-02-05, 08:09 PM
#103
Originally Posted by Carl Byck
Nice Dave, I'm Just wrapping up mounting the 13" slicks on the front of mine 
I talked to Tri-Point about this and depending on how it is done, you may have to increase the spring rates as there could be more mechanical advantage in the lower control arm.
Originally Posted by Carl Byck
Did you say your flares cover the back of the rear tire?what are the diameters of the front, and rear tires
Having so much of the rear of your front tire exposed is one of the main reasons the front sides of your rear flares get hammered.
Fronts: 295/30/18's on 18x11 w/ 5-1/2 backspacing.
Height: 25.25" Section width: 12" tread width: 10.5"
Still have about a 1/2" to spare.
Rears: 335/30/18's on 18x12 w/ 6" backspacing.
Height: 26.25" Section width: 13.5" tread width: 12.0"
Still have 3/4"-1" to spare.
As far as the height, I'll be able to lower it as much as I want, but seeing as how it is mainly a street car and a track car second (though everything I do to it says otherwise), I am limited by things such as driveways and speedbumps unlike a dedicated track car like yours. Basically I set it up for the track but definately make sure it will work on the street.
Originally Posted by Carl Byck
Hey Dave, with all the power you will be making why didn't you go wide enough to run 335s all around? The car is prone to understeer, even with same size all around, wider fronts would allow lower spring rates making it a nicer street ride. The car looks very nice, how did they form the side skirts? Hopefully they removed enough of the stock body to drop the car enough. That is the one frustration I have with mine, I just cannot get it as low as I would like. When I repaint this winter, I will be sure and use the protective tape, there not alot of paint left on my flares If I can get out the driveway of the hotel we'll have to go cruising at SS8.
If I can get out the driveway of the hotel we'll have to go cruising at SS8.My car has a pretty good street ride currently. The spring rates are nowhere near a dedicated track car and besides, I'm not really worried about stuff like that. Also, I do not have power steering and basically will never have the option, especially after I stick the 3-rotor in this thing. I do have a manual rack if needed but prefer the quick response of the ps (disconnected) rack.
Get a hammer and beat that quarter panel up and out of the way. Currently as the car sits, I have plenty of room to drop it and I only plan on lowering it about 3/4", otherwise I have problems with my driveway. Additionally, if the car is lowered too much, there is no way to dial out all the camber gained as a result of the drop, not to mention you don't want to run as much camber with this much tire to begin with. I already have the adjustable main sub-link and each trailing arm sub-link installed btw.
The best way to lower the car is go with shorter rims/tires.
The sideskirts were once fc3s.org pieces I had laying around in the garage for a while. I decided to bring them up to the shop as an afterthought to see if we could get them to work. They were sectioned up and glassed back together in the way we wanted. They really make the difference in the way the car looks by bringing the front and rear together imho. There will be molds of these made also along with the front splitter too.
Cruising is all I'll be able to do since the engine won't be dyno tuned until the day after Sevenstock but that sounds good nonetheless.
Carl, you realize that you will just have to get a set of fenders from me now.
Last edited by RX-Heven; 10-02-05 at 08:29 PM.
10-02-05, 10:58 PM
#108
BOOSTED Vert
Join Date: Sep 2002
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Like I mentioned earlier, what do you plan to do for the paint?? IIRC you wanted to spray it the same white... Are you dead set on white? or are you exploring other options... I personally wouldve like another color such as, silver or black..
10-02-05, 11:44 PM
#110
Mad Man
It will be nice to see what a good shop can do in terms of a widebody vs my garage special. You'll unfortunately be able to see why the car is getting paint this winter. As far as ride height, Aero that is a year away is really the main reason. Currently my front cross member is 4.25" off the ground, quite tall compared to EP cars. I like the skirts, but I doubt I'll be able to use them due to the different fenders. How much wider is the front fender than the tripoint? My lowering issues are due to tire width, and type. If I were running radials, I would be running ~2.5 negative, but with Bias Ply slicks its closer to 1.25*. As such, the tires will not tuck into the fenders, rather they are ~flush with the fender. My rear tire is 24.8 tall, 13.7 section width, 12.4 tread, fronts are top secret My rear tire looks to have just rubbed the trailing arm, must likely on a first lap when my pressures are down around 16-17lbs. The offset is the same as yours, so you should clear easily with the 13.5 in the rear. Your front must be extremely close to the spring/perch, I am not sure I could have cleared a 12" section width with my original set-up. I will be interested to see if my rear tire will tuck up inside your flare. Hope everything goes as planned, Carl
My rear tire looks to have just rubbed the trailing arm, must likely on a first lap when my pressures are down around 16-17lbs. The offset is the same as yours, so you should clear easily with the 13.5 in the rear. Your front must be extremely close to the spring/perch, I am not sure I could have cleared a 12" section width with my original set-up. I will be interested to see if my rear tire will tuck up inside your flare. Hope everything goes as planned, Carl
10-03-05, 12:05 AM
#111
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: fort worth, tx, usa
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Smart ***!!! j/k
Just finished assembling your engine. Gonna call up Fedex right now to make sure they're coming tomorrow so that you'll have your engine on Tuesday. It's already 12:15am here. Gotta go home, take shower, and goto sleep so that I can wake up at 7:00am tomorrow to work at Motorola tomorrow morning. I know I'm gonna fall asleep tomorrow since I have 4 hrs of conference call I have to attend.
those things are so boring. LOL
Just finished assembling your engine. Gonna call up Fedex right now to make sure they're coming tomorrow so that you'll have your engine on Tuesday. It's already 12:15am here. Gotta go home, take shower, and goto sleep so that I can wake up at 7:00am tomorrow to work at Motorola tomorrow morning. I know I'm gonna fall asleep tomorrow since I have 4 hrs of conference call I have to attend.
those things are so boring. LOL
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
Shouldn't you be assembling my engine instead of making wisecracks online
btw, be sure to wear your safety GOGGLES.
btw, be sure to wear your safety GOGGLES.
10-03-05, 01:37 PM
#112
Zoom Zoom Boom!
Join Date: Mar 2003
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So I'm using my laptop at school and checking out this thread..... and my friend walks up to me and asks why I have a stupid grin on my face...
Dave, you have got to be shitting me, that 'vert in insane!! I really wished you still kept the widebody 10th AE, but glad to see you kept the 20B. The 'vert has come a long way since I saw it last year. Can't wait to see it completed.
Dave, you have got to be shitting me, that 'vert in insane!! I really wished you still kept the widebody 10th AE, but glad to see you kept the 20B.
The 'vert has come a long way since I saw it last year. Can't wait to see it completed.
10-06-05, 10:38 PM
#117
I like it. I like the wing. I even like the bolted-on skirts. I love the front fenders.
I like the way it looks from the very front.
I don't like how "narrow' the bumper looks compared to the front fenders, and how steep the angle is on that. I think (if I was doing it) that I'd probably widen the front bumper or something as well, maybe add some materal on the sides of the bumper and front of the fenders, just to make it more even.
I just picked up a widebody turbo vert of my own, it used to be Lawyer's sprit's car... lucky for me, only minimal bodywork is required, most of the hard stuff has been done allready. It's got an after market front bumper, and I have NO idea who made the kit, but it's a pretty car. I gotta find me some wheels, though... it's just got TII stockers on it right now (on spacers)
Are you planning on (or have you allready) installing a rollbar? (for track events at least)
I like the way it looks from the very front.
I don't like how "narrow' the bumper looks compared to the front fenders, and how steep the angle is on that. I think (if I was doing it) that I'd probably widen the front bumper or something as well, maybe add some materal on the sides of the bumper and front of the fenders, just to make it more even.
I just picked up a widebody turbo vert of my own, it used to be Lawyer's sprit's car... lucky for me, only minimal bodywork is required, most of the hard stuff has been done allready. It's got an after market front bumper, and I have NO idea who made the kit, but it's a pretty car. I gotta find me some wheels, though... it's just got TII stockers on it right now (on spacers)
Are you planning on (or have you allready) installing a rollbar? (for track events at least)
10-13-05, 04:01 PM
#118
Originally Posted by Carl Byck
Dave what clutch are you going to run on the 13B?
Originally Posted by Terrh
I don't like how "narrow' the bumper looks compared to the front fenders, and how steep the angle is on that. I think (if I was doing it) that I'd probably widen the front bumper or something as well, maybe add some materal on the sides of the bumper and front of the fenders, just to make it more even.
Originally Posted by Terrh
I just picked up a widebody turbo vert of my own, it used to be Lawyer's sprit's car... lucky for me, only minimal bodywork is required, most of the hard stuff has been done allready. It's got an after market front bumper, and I have NO idea who made the kit, but it's a pretty car. I gotta find me some wheels, though... it's just got TII stockers on it right now (on spacers)
Originally Posted by Terrh
Are you planning on (or have you allready) installing a rollbar? (for track events at least)
10-13-05, 04:40 PM
#119
Well the car made it down to Sevenstock...barely due to wrong parts being delivered by Mazdaspeed. I got the engine in and running the night before. I also received a great response from everyone down there as they were all excited about the car. I ended up driving down with a huge caravan along I-5 with about 20+ or so other RX's of all years.
I'm currently looking into having molds made by a few people. I don't think I will be able to gather enough deposit money from interested parties to cover the costs of getting the molds done so I am exploring other alternatives. I don't want to cover the expense out of my own pocket as it would be basically spending roughly 3k on something I "might" need down the road. Just not worth it imho and I'm not interestd in producing the kit myself anymore. I hate working with fiberglass.
I contacted Dave Gibson of fc3s.org and Speed Machine Performance to see if he would be interested in making the molds and covering that expense. He'd benefit by be being able to keep the molds for himself and expand his already large selection of stuff for us fc guys. We'll see how that goes as I just contacted him....
We hooked the car up to the dyno on Sunday following SS8 after breaking in the new engine with 650 miles. I came close to popping my motor.
My wastegate got stuck closed and the engine overboosted to 28 psi according to the Haltech datalog. We were running 91 octane and were certain there was a mistake with the Haltech so we then checked the Profec B which read 29.4 lbs.
I have ceramic apex seals and an Aquamist system that runs 66% Methanol and 33% water. I'm sure the two of those saved me from another engine build.
Never did get the wastegate problem sorted though.
fwiw, the car made 397rwhp and 392rwtq at around 5300rpm before Steve let off. He has the dyno chart.
On with the pics....
I'm currently looking into having molds made by a few people. I don't think I will be able to gather enough deposit money from interested parties to cover the costs of getting the molds done so I am exploring other alternatives. I don't want to cover the expense out of my own pocket as it would be basically spending roughly 3k on something I "might" need down the road. Just not worth it imho and I'm not interestd in producing the kit myself anymore. I hate working with fiberglass.
I contacted Dave Gibson of fc3s.org and Speed Machine Performance to see if he would be interested in making the molds and covering that expense. He'd benefit by be being able to keep the molds for himself and expand his already large selection of stuff for us fc guys. We'll see how that goes as I just contacted him....
We hooked the car up to the dyno on Sunday following SS8 after breaking in the new engine with 650 miles. I came close to popping my motor.
My wastegate got stuck closed and the engine overboosted to 28 psi according to the Haltech datalog. We were running 91 octane and were certain there was a mistake with the Haltech so we then checked the Profec B which read 29.4 lbs.
I have ceramic apex seals and an Aquamist system that runs 66% Methanol and 33% water. I'm sure the two of those saved me from another engine build.
Never did get the wastegate problem sorted though.
fwiw, the car made 397rwhp and 392rwtq at around 5300rpm before Steve let off. He has the dyno chart.
On with the pics....
10-13-05, 05:17 PM
#121
Play Well
Join Date: Feb 2005
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you need a good pick from the front with the top and hood down< it looks way better with the top down
if i was gonna put a bar in it i would have went if the individual bars like the miata but that is just me
looks sick as hell man i want it
if i was gonna put a bar in it i would have went if the individual bars like the miata but that is just me
looks sick as hell man i want it
10-30-05, 12:39 AM
#123
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by domestickilla
if that kit did become available, any idea on cost? im a fan of it
If not, stop asking.
-Ted
10-30-05, 01:11 AM
#124
whoa ted settle down! anyways,since were talking body work here, anyone know what a good size rivet to use for fenders? Im not going to mold my fenders in(different fenders then RX Heaven) Im going for more of the race car style look. And getting a body shop to mold and paint isnt cheap
10-30-05, 01:02 AM
#125
Lives on the Forum
People don't realize how much trouble (and money) it is to do this kinda thing properly.
I'm getting tired of all these "newbies" who say they want to do this / they want to do that, but have no clue on the actual work and costs involved.
Adding body kit pieces to your car isn't cheap!
Think of it as repainting the car *PLUS*!
Even if you take a "$500" RaceOn cheap-*** body kit from eBay, don't even think you're going to spend $500 + S&H, and viola, you can is instantly going to be transformed into some gorgeous work of art that everyone is going to uuuuuh and ahhhhh over.
No, after getting that $500 body kit, you need to add a couple thousand just to get a competent body shop to mold the pieces onto your car properly.
Sure, you can just slap on the panels and rivet them on and call it a day - it's going to look like ***.
High strength epoxy plus lots of time and man hours shaving and forming the raw body kit to fit properly actually take up the most time, effort, and money.
Unless you're some super auto body guy, or con someone who has this kinda talent for a couple cases of beer, it's EXPENSIVE.
We haven't even touched the paint part of it yet...
Ask RX-Heven how much it's costing HIM to complete this project - I'm sure he doesn't even want to recall all the receipts!
I guess this is my weekly rant...
When I see comments about - "yeah, I want to do this to my car, how much would it cost?" replies - I know it's some kid who has no clue what they are getting into...
/RANT
-Ted
I'm getting tired of all these "newbies" who say they want to do this / they want to do that, but have no clue on the actual work and costs involved.
Adding body kit pieces to your car isn't cheap!
Think of it as repainting the car *PLUS*!
Even if you take a "$500" RaceOn cheap-*** body kit from eBay, don't even think you're going to spend $500 + S&H, and viola, you can is instantly going to be transformed into some gorgeous work of art that everyone is going to uuuuuh and ahhhhh over.
No, after getting that $500 body kit, you need to add a couple thousand just to get a competent body shop to mold the pieces onto your car properly.
Sure, you can just slap on the panels and rivet them on and call it a day - it's going to look like ***.
High strength epoxy plus lots of time and man hours shaving and forming the raw body kit to fit properly actually take up the most time, effort, and money.
Unless you're some super auto body guy, or con someone who has this kinda talent for a couple cases of beer, it's EXPENSIVE.
We haven't even touched the paint part of it yet...
Ask RX-Heven how much it's costing HIM to complete this project - I'm sure he doesn't even want to recall all the receipts!
I guess this is my weekly rant...
When I see comments about - "yeah, I want to do this to my car, how much would it cost?" replies - I know it's some kid who has no clue what they are getting into...
/RANT
-Ted