problems with an rx7 i want to buy.
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
problems with an rx7 i want to buy.
I couldnt really find anything about this by searching, so im gonna post it here, i went out and looked at an rx7 today, i forgot how many miles it has, but all the electrical stuff seemed to work just fine, but it had some problems with the engine, and i didnt get to test drive it, so i dont know about the transmission.
anyways, upon startup, the idle was jumping back and forth between 1k to 1.5 k, kind of sounding like it was gonna die or something.
when i revved it and held it, it seemed to miss about every second or so...
anyone know what might be the problem...?
anyways, upon startup, the idle was jumping back and forth between 1k to 1.5 k, kind of sounding like it was gonna die or something.
when i revved it and held it, it seemed to miss about every second or so...
anyone know what might be the problem...?
#3
Despise Enmity
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 2,420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Idle roaming is either an intake leak or a misadjusted/bad throttle position sensor.
KM/H? Eh? hint...Eh EH!
Most likely it was sold in Canada and came down into the states sometime. Keep in mind that the mileage is going to be reported in KM as well. Unless that is, someone went and swapped in a Canadian/Japanese gauge cluster which isn't as likely. Do you have a VIN# for it?
KM/H? Eh? hint...Eh EH!
Most likely it was sold in Canada and came down into the states sometime. Keep in mind that the mileage is going to be reported in KM as well. Unless that is, someone went and swapped in a Canadian/Japanese gauge cluster which isn't as likely. Do you have a VIN# for it?
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dont have a VIN for it, but would it even work on carfax since its from canada?
anyways, i dont think roming is the right adjective to use, to would go down to 1000, then kick up to 1500, then sound like it was gonna die, and go down to 1000 again, and repeat this cycle about every second...
how much would this cost to fix, assuming i had a mechanic do it?
anyways, i dont think roming is the right adjective to use, to would go down to 1000, then kick up to 1500, then sound like it was gonna die, and go down to 1000 again, and repeat this cycle about every second...
how much would this cost to fix, assuming i had a mechanic do it?
#5
Despise Enmity
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 2,420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Answer these...
Did it ever drop below 1000?
About how long did it take to start (counting in misissippi)?
Did you let it completely warm up?
Was it doing this when warm or while warming up from cold?
One thing to keep in mind is, have someone check the compression. The real way is to (the only time you ever should) goto a mazda dealership. They have compression testers built specially for rotary engines. Typical costs is around 50-75 dollars for a test.
Depends on the mechanic. If he replaced any parts with stock parts from the dealership, it could get around 3-400 w/labor. That is presuming that it is only something like the TPS or an intake leak.
If you do buy the car, try HARD to find a mechanic that KNOWS THE INTERNALS OF A ROTARY ENGINE. Don't let some grease monkey fool you. Same goes with the dealership.
Did it ever drop below 1000?
About how long did it take to start (counting in misissippi)?
Did you let it completely warm up?
Was it doing this when warm or while warming up from cold?
One thing to keep in mind is, have someone check the compression. The real way is to (the only time you ever should) goto a mazda dealership. They have compression testers built specially for rotary engines. Typical costs is around 50-75 dollars for a test.
Depends on the mechanic. If he replaced any parts with stock parts from the dealership, it could get around 3-400 w/labor. That is presuming that it is only something like the TPS or an intake leak.
If you do buy the car, try HARD to find a mechanic that KNOWS THE INTERNALS OF A ROTARY ENGINE. Don't let some grease monkey fool you. Same goes with the dealership.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes, after i let off the gas after revving it, it would go to like 500-700, but then shoot right back up and do the 1000 rpm dance
took about 2 or 3 mississippi to start
i dont know, the longest i ran it for was like 30 seconds, so, probably not.
i had just started it, and it was doing it.
ok i know a really good rotary mechanic i can go to, but your saying that if the compression looks good, then its the TPS or an intake leak?
took about 2 or 3 mississippi to start
i dont know, the longest i ran it for was like 30 seconds, so, probably not.
i had just started it, and it was doing it.
ok i know a really good rotary mechanic i can go to, but your saying that if the compression looks good, then its the TPS or an intake leak?
#7
Despise Enmity
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 2,420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
92% sure!
You really should never cut it off after so short of time. Doing so can result in flooding the engine.
Did it smoke AT ALL when starting and initially running? If so what color? If not, GOOD!
I'm done on the forum tonight, but i'll check this thread tommorow, or maybe someone will take over for me.
You really should never cut it off after so short of time. Doing so can result in flooding the engine.
Did it smoke AT ALL when starting and initially running? If so what color? If not, GOOD!
I'm done on the forum tonight, but i'll check this thread tommorow, or maybe someone will take over for me.
Trending Topics
#9
still love the FC
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The bouncing idle was probably caused by the car not being warmed up fully. The car should rev to 3k RPMs on start and gradually work its way down to a 750 RPM idle. Sometimes if it is warm outside the ECU will bounce the idle, because it tries to go into a normal idle state too soon.
#12
Despise Enmity
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 2,420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by cbrinega
The bouncing idle was probably caused by the car not being warmed up fully. The car should rev to 3k RPMs on start and gradually work its way down to a 750 RPM idle. Sometimes if it is warm outside the ECU will bounce the idle, because it tries to go into a normal idle state too soon.
The bouncing idle was probably caused by the car not being warmed up fully. The car should rev to 3k RPMs on start and gradually work its way down to a 750 RPM idle. Sometimes if it is warm outside the ECU will bounce the idle, because it tries to go into a normal idle state too soon.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post