I recently rebuilt a S5 turbo motor. It was my first rebuild ever. It went pretty well, fired right up first crank in 15 deg weather! Only problem is it leaks oil now. It is leaking from between the front iron and front rotor housing where the oil dowel is.

My questions:

1. I dont remember putting an o-ring there. Should there be one there? I didnt see one in the FSM but it looks like your instructed to put sealant around the dowel. I dont remember putting sealant there either.

2. To fix it can I pull the motor, crack the keg from the front by only removing the front iron, resealing, then re-assemblying? or do I have to completely disassemble the engine and reassemble?

3. Is there a way to test the oil pressure sending unit? I think I killed mine removing and reinstalling it.

Thanks.

 

1. Yes there is an oring around the dowel pins on both sides of both rotor housings

2. If you built the engine then you know it disassembles from the rear, and all the bolts need to come out. Tear it down and rebuild it correctly.

3. You probably forgot to plug in the condensor, mounted at the slave cylinder. Is it reading super high? or not at all?

 

1. Ok.

2. Yea, yea.. I was just hopeful.

3. I'm not familiar with a condenser, so I imagine that its not connected. My gauge does not read at all, would that be caused by the condenser not being hooked up? Or would it read high without the condenser?

Thanks.

 

No, the condenser does not need to be connected for the gauge to work. IF the connector is on the oil pressure sender it should have worked. Try this: key to ON........while someone looks at the oil gauge, momentarily touch the oil pressure senders connector to ground. The gauge needle should start to rise when you do that. Don't let the needle peg out, just confirm that the needle starts to rise up when the connector is put to gnd. That proves the circuit for the gauge is good from the sender to the gauge.

The condenser is similar to the one for the coils. That one for the coils is located below the trail coil assy and bolted to the chassis on the aft side of the left strut tower.

 

Ok, so i pulled the motor and rebuilt it. Turns out I completely missed the front oil dowel o-ring. Now the engine leaks no fluid.

Now Im concerned about the accuracy of the timing. I believe I have used a miss matched front pulley and hub. Ive done some searching and have found that this may be an issue as the pulleys may be indexed to their respective pulley hubs.

Is there anyway to verify that the timing marks are accurate?

I saw one method of aligning the rear rotor apex seal with the two spark plug holes at teamfc3s.org. but this sounds very difficult to do with the little room i have around my plugs. I also read something about the E-shaft key way on the front of the motor. Can I remove the front bolt and verify that the key way is 90 deg from the leading timing mark?

Thanks.