Problems with Knightsports big compressor kit and RE-Amemiya C-Type redom ecu
#1
Exhaust Manifold Leak
Thread Starter
Problems with Knightsports big compressor kit and RE-Amemiya C-Type redom ecu
Hi,
I just installed a bigger turbo on me S5 T2, the back end of the turbo is stock but is has a way bigger compressor side on it, so I also made a catless exhaust, 3" to the Y part and then 2,5" to the free flowing mufflers..
I've bought a second hand ecu from ebay, the seller was RHD Japan, I bought several items from this store and they were all very nice, so it has been sold to me as a N374 ecu with RE-AMEMYA C-Type rom.. car runs fine, but I have 2 problems with it:
1: the rev limiter is at 7000 rpm, just before the overrev buzzer kicks in, with is very annoying because the cars runs really strong from 4500 rpm..
2: I can't get the boost any higer than 0.65bar, (I'm using a HKS EVC IV) even if I set the boost controller at 1 bar.. could it be the restrictive mass airflow meter? I'm looking for an hks VPC..
I checked the AFR and it's onder full load +- 11..
What exhaust gas temps and AFR readings are to be expected with this setup?
The car is a european and the stock ecu had N380 on it..
What could cause the boost and revliliter problems?
I just installed a bigger turbo on me S5 T2, the back end of the turbo is stock but is has a way bigger compressor side on it, so I also made a catless exhaust, 3" to the Y part and then 2,5" to the free flowing mufflers..
I've bought a second hand ecu from ebay, the seller was RHD Japan, I bought several items from this store and they were all very nice, so it has been sold to me as a N374 ecu with RE-AMEMYA C-Type rom.. car runs fine, but I have 2 problems with it:
1: the rev limiter is at 7000 rpm, just before the overrev buzzer kicks in, with is very annoying because the cars runs really strong from 4500 rpm..
2: I can't get the boost any higer than 0.65bar, (I'm using a HKS EVC IV) even if I set the boost controller at 1 bar.. could it be the restrictive mass airflow meter? I'm looking for an hks VPC..
I checked the AFR and it's onder full load +- 11..
What exhaust gas temps and AFR readings are to be expected with this setup?
The car is a european and the stock ecu had N380 on it..
What could cause the boost and revliliter problems?
#2
Exhaust Manifold Leak
Thread Starter
I have some update:
When I disable the boost controller, so boost = wastegate spring pressure..
Then I can pull to 7500rpm..
Also when I drive at 0.7 bar boost on the controller, at 6500rpm, the rev limiter kicks in, AFR rises to 13+, and boost drops to zero while I'm still holding the pedal all the way down..
Very strange situation,
I tried today with the stock ECU, but it was running way too lean over the entire rpm curve... probaly due the bigger turbo and exhaust..
Any input..
Thanks
When I disable the boost controller, so boost = wastegate spring pressure..
Then I can pull to 7500rpm..
Also when I drive at 0.7 bar boost on the controller, at 6500rpm, the rev limiter kicks in, AFR rises to 13+, and boost drops to zero while I'm still holding the pedal all the way down..
Very strange situation,
I tried today with the stock ECU, but it was running way too lean over the entire rpm curve... probaly due the bigger turbo and exhaust..
Any input..
Thanks
#3
Rotax?! WTF is a Rotax!?
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Just a question are you running bigger injectors with more boost? Usually when increasing boost you need to supply the fuel with it as well, there MAYBE a possiblity that your not getting enough fuel or something causing some issues as well. Also are you sure the boost controller is hooked up correctly and is actually functioning? And your AFR's are going to 13 Underboost, correct me if i am wrong but thats pretty lean if your going over stock boost, if 1 bar = 14.7psi then 0.7 bar = 10 psi i think. I am pretty sure it should be around 10/11's, but some of the more veteran members can give you a more definitive answer.
just thought of this. are you sure its not fuel kill? i mean if your going that hard and its all of a sudden cuts and the pedal is @ the floor, i would assume fuel kill. Do you know more about the Re Amemiya ECU you have and what features, things it does? You can always get a Rtek 1.5/1.7/1.8/2.0 ECU depending on what mods you have.
just thought of this. are you sure its not fuel kill? i mean if your going that hard and its all of a sudden cuts and the pedal is @ the floor, i would assume fuel kill. Do you know more about the Re Amemiya ECU you have and what features, things it does? You can always get a Rtek 1.5/1.7/1.8/2.0 ECU depending on what mods you have.
Last edited by StarScreaM2k1; 09-23-06 at 12:06 PM.
#6
always searchin
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Originally Posted by StarScreaM2k1
Do you know more about the Re Amemiya ECU you have and what features, things it does?
#7
Saiga-12 Power!
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Originally Posted by StarScreaM2k1
You can always get a Rtek 1.5/1.7/1.8/2.0 ECU depending on what mods you have.
I don't know why people buy these chipped ECUs, they are programmed for a specific build that was done by the company that chipped the ecu(RE-AMEMYA). Combining a chipped ecu with a car that does not have the same mods as the car built by the chipper is just asking for trouble, especially if you don't have a list of mods the chipped ECU is for.
I'd find the nearest rotary shop, find out what aftermarket ems they are familiar with, then buy one and have them install\tune it.
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#9
Rotax?! WTF is a Rotax!?
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Originally Posted by Juiceh
No he can't he has an S5 not an S4. Rtek is currently only for S4.
I don't know why people buy these chipped ECUs, they are programmed for a specific build that was done by the company that chipped the ecu(RE-AMEMYA). Combining a chipped ecu with a car that does not have the same mods as the car built by the chipper is just asking for trouble, especially if you don't have a list of mods the chipped ECU is for.
I'd find the nearest rotary shop, find out what aftermarket ems they are familiar with, then buy one and have them install\tune it.
I don't know why people buy these chipped ECUs, they are programmed for a specific build that was done by the company that chipped the ecu(RE-AMEMYA). Combining a chipped ecu with a car that does not have the same mods as the car built by the chipper is just asking for trouble, especially if you don't have a list of mods the chipped ECU is for.
I'd find the nearest rotary shop, find out what aftermarket ems they are familiar with, then buy one and have them install\tune it.
#10
Exhaust Manifold Leak
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reactions!
I'll call tomorrow to a guy in holland who races rotaries.. My previous FC he also did.. very nice done, was a racing beat exhaust without cat, stock turbo @ 0.6bar and it ran VERY strong over the entrire rpm range, way better as my current fc with +- same exhaust and bigger turbo..
I'll call tomorrow to a guy in holland who races rotaries.. My previous FC he also did.. very nice done, was a racing beat exhaust without cat, stock turbo @ 0.6bar and it ran VERY strong over the entrire rpm range, way better as my current fc with +- same exhaust and bigger turbo..
#13
Exhaust Manifold Leak
Thread Starter
Is sure I'm not running to rich..
I can see on the zeitronix display, the richtest afr was 10.0...
But when the 'rev limiter" kick in, afr rises and boost drops, wich could also be the fuel cut..
I can see on the zeitronix display, the richtest afr was 10.0...
But when the 'rev limiter" kick in, afr rises and boost drops, wich could also be the fuel cut..
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