My baby's clutch is slipping :(
#1
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My baby's clutch is slipping :(
Hey people,
I'm depressed and in despair because I'm getting beaten by toyota corollas driven by women! Although, this is partly due to my crappy driving skills it is mostly due to my clutch slipping on my 1989 FC3S Rx (can you guess what the number is?) turbo.
I was wondering what's the cheapest way of fixing this problem (yes, I am a tight **** - but aren't we all if we own an Rx7?). Do I have to replace the whole clutch?!?!?!?!
Hope you guys can help return my baby to the roaring beast it used to be.
Cheers
I'm depressed and in despair because I'm getting beaten by toyota corollas driven by women! Although, this is partly due to my crappy driving skills it is mostly due to my clutch slipping on my 1989 FC3S Rx (can you guess what the number is?) turbo.
I was wondering what's the cheapest way of fixing this problem (yes, I am a tight **** - but aren't we all if we own an Rx7?). Do I have to replace the whole clutch?!?!?!?!
Hope you guys can help return my baby to the roaring beast it used to be.
Cheers
#2
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Might as well replace the whole clutch and get a new throwout bearing. 6 puck clutch kits on ebay are good times.
Last edited by idsigloo; 10-29-06 at 05:36 PM.
#3
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i'd say that you should replace the clutch and pressure plate while your down there. your gonna get the best performance by doing so and insure that your not gonna get beat by women in toyotas. i bought the centerforce dual friction clutch kit, not sure how much it was but, it was worth my money.
#6
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If you really want to do it right, which is your choice. Replace the slave and master clynder also. I have not had good luck with either
when not replaced with the clutch.
when not replaced with the clutch.
#7
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fair point. Yeah i want to do it right but i also have the money of a uni student . I'm going to go ask for some quotes on parts from some mechanics and see what they think. Thanks for all the input guys and if any of you know a good place in melbourne (aust) for these parts i'd love to know
cheers
cheers
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#9
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cool, i'll shop around and get back to you on that. I am still really new to all of this. I don't need anything fancy since I don't race and its more to take me to uni and back. Still trying to understand all this lingo though. can anyone explain it to me. Like 6 puck etc. Is there a thread that explains all these terms? If not i reckon that would be an awesome thread because I think I am not alone in my ignorance.
Once again though, anyone know any aussie dealers that specialise in this stuff?
Hey rotarhead izzy, i love your ride. really clean car. reminds me of my baby
Once again though, anyone know any aussie dealers that specialise in this stuff?
Hey rotarhead izzy, i love your ride. really clean car. reminds me of my baby
#10
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if u dont race u need a basic oem replacement clutch like what I am offereing
here are some differences in clutches
Standard Exedy clutch disc with pressure plate (standard replacement)
Spec 6 puck SPRUNG HUB (center of disc has springs for easier engagment)
3 puck sprung hub (normally same feel as a 6 puck sprung just different brands have different pad counts)
ACT 6 and 4 puck UN-SPRUNG hub disc (HARSH engagement race only)
Now u talk about the material that makes up the disc.
normal clutch is usually a multi-material disc
stage 1 disc is normally a organic compound
stage 2 disc can bump u up to a ceramic
stange 4 disc is more like a kevlar disc or a feramic
Now to pressure plates (clamping force)
stock as we all know is made for easy slipage normally no slipping needed to get a car to roll a very light easy feel
stage 1 upgrade usually incorporates up to 250ft/lbs more clamping load over stock
stage 2 can bump u up to 500+ft/lb clamping load over stock
stage 3-4 is normally represented by a 2600ft/lb clamping load this is going to make for a VERY heavy pedal (calf workout) not always very streetable, will take some work to get use to it, and can be quite destructive to drivetrain components
Hopefully this helps in yoru next or anyones next purchase on a clutch kit
here are some differences in clutches
Standard Exedy clutch disc with pressure plate (standard replacement)
Spec 6 puck SPRUNG HUB (center of disc has springs for easier engagment)
3 puck sprung hub (normally same feel as a 6 puck sprung just different brands have different pad counts)
ACT 6 and 4 puck UN-SPRUNG hub disc (HARSH engagement race only)
Now u talk about the material that makes up the disc.
normal clutch is usually a multi-material disc
stage 1 disc is normally a organic compound
stage 2 disc can bump u up to a ceramic
stange 4 disc is more like a kevlar disc or a feramic
Now to pressure plates (clamping force)
stock as we all know is made for easy slipage normally no slipping needed to get a car to roll a very light easy feel
stage 1 upgrade usually incorporates up to 250ft/lbs more clamping load over stock
stage 2 can bump u up to 500+ft/lb clamping load over stock
stage 3-4 is normally represented by a 2600ft/lb clamping load this is going to make for a VERY heavy pedal (calf workout) not always very streetable, will take some work to get use to it, and can be quite destructive to drivetrain components
Hopefully this helps in yoru next or anyones next purchase on a clutch kit
#11
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thanks alot mate. So they way i see it all these will fit on my car, it just depends how serious i am about it. so the ones that pump out more torque is going to fry my drivetrain and i don't want that . How big a job is it. like i'd love to do it myself this holidays. any sites that explain how to do it. I'd really like to learn more about my car so if i can do this myself i will
thanks again for the prompt replies
thanks again for the prompt replies
#12
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get a factory repair manual it will tell u how...
and I dont know how durable the rx7 drivetrain is but yes the hugher clamping force is harder on the trans, driveshaft, axles
and I dont know how durable the rx7 drivetrain is but yes the hugher clamping force is harder on the trans, driveshaft, axles