jimmydanny

The title says it all, really.

I had to crank up the idle to 1500 to make it idle at all, I have backfire all the time, tried adjusting the TPS, ignition timing.

The vac is on -0.3, normally it should be on -0.8, 0 is atmosferic pressure. When I turn the engine off, it sometimes sticks on 0.2 bar, 1 bar is around 14psi or so. When I disconnect the vac hose going to the UIM, it falls to 0. Also when I accelerate, even before when the car worked perfectly, the boost gauge needle jumps, depending on the boost pressure, alot, fast, a bit slower, just a tiny bit. Sounds like vac leak to me, but I can't figure out what it is, tried with start gas or whatever you call it in the US, but it revs the engine if there is a leak, I found nada.

I had problems with my car not starting before, swapped a bad ECU connector (the 20-pin to the right on the ECU), then it started. As I have a swapped engine, that particular connector only got 7 wires connected, coils are five of them I think, last to I dont know, one is ground I guess, last I haven't checked, I just connected them as they were on the old connector.

Can anyone state the most important wires on the ECU connector with the wire names from the wiring diagram for the S5 TII? At work now so don't remember what wires I got now, but I know for a fact my diag connector is not connected at all. My front harness is S4, ECU is ofc S5.

I know I just asked this before, but new info and my thread was littered with random info from me anyways.

jimmydanny

Over 12h since posting, so bumping it now b4 work Cheers

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

just go stand alone

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

You have a S5 TII engine in a S4 chassis??

Normally, when the vacuum is close to 0, you have an air leak somewhere. It can be the slightest leak.

You can pressurize the entire intake system to find the airleak, you need to do it in a quiet spot to hear all the air leaks. You will need something like this http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...st-Leak-Tester

jimmydanny

If I had the materials available I would do it straight away, but we don't have a store with those parts around here, so that test would have to way till after I have tried with electronic cleaner spray and greasing all the ground spots (and the rest Aaron Cake's page about it tells you to do).

But what I can't figure out is why the boost gauge needle is jumping? Is this something only in the RX?

Never happened in my Passat when I had a boost leak, not even when my whole IC popped off of it.

Also, the fact that there was pressure in the system after I turned off the engine, could this be because I removed the BAC valve and didn't adjust the TPS position to allow me to have proper idle, so that it closed the pressure in between the rotor/engine and the butterfly valves?

jimmydanny

What might be even easier is to fill the intake with smoke. If it leaks somewhere, it is pretty obvious where it is.

Would be fun if the boost gauge leaks, fills the car with smoke :P

But what can I use as a smoke source? I don't have lungs to fill the intake with cigarette smoke, and the only smoke machine I know of is mounted on the wall at work, and far to advanced to just rig up somewhere else.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

you can use mineral oil for smoke, you can search online on how to build a smoke/fog machine.

Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge?

john ward

iTrader: (7)

I have a smoke tester at work and would only charge .5 labor to smoke it for you. Not sure what people in your area would charge but I'm sure not much. It's not just the smoke needed but my blue point machine also pushes in nitrogen to help find leaks. Smoke with no pressure would only find massive leaks

jimmydanny

I live around... oh, 4000 miles away from you :P

I will go to one of the petrol station, they have these tyre filling compressors, Ill just take a nipple of my winter tyre, and put it on a 6mm vac hose and fill it from there up to 11psi or whatever is stock. See if I find anything.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

there are ways to find leaks. im sure you have a cigarette some place? pull a hose off, and puff some smoke in there. the smoke will seep out where it leaks.

jimmydanny

Yeah, that will work... a vac leak can be as small as 0.020" and still make quite a mess. Now, in a intake that is over 3 feet long, if not 4, how do you mean a small cigarette would do that?


I would say I smell sarcasm, but I answer anyway

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I tried that once with weed instead of a cigarette.
Didn't find a leak.
Didn't care.
The only CD she'll play now is Dark Side of the Moon.

There must be a better way.

jimmydanny

On the serious side I am going to try today or tomorrow, depending on the weather. Was like 10 centigrade, then suddenly 2 and snow, wtf.

Take of the winter tires they said. It will be better.

Yah

jimmydanny

Well, fixed all grounds, electronic cleaner spary on all connectors. It revs automatically now. WTF is that?

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

what do you mean by reving automatically?

jimmydanny

It revs to the redline by itself, no throttle, 0 vacuum/boost, that menas it is atmospheric pressure, ergo either the throttle valves are stuck open (which I know they arent), or I got a mfking HUGE vac leak after the throttle valves

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

I wouldve thought that a huge airleak like that will shut the car off because of not enough fuel since its running a predetermined set based on the air traveling through the AFM.

jimmydanny

I am only using my experience from other cars, notably the Corolla with 4A-GZE, blew a intercooler hose, revved up to the limit in a sec.

But if that is not the case with the 7, I am mistaken, and the only theory that does stick for any reason is the throttle wire getting stuck in the plastic liner thingy, or the plastic liner being stuck in between something clamping down on the wire.

EDIT: Note on the GZE; it got the throttle body before the charger and IC

jimmydanny

Problems with everything was error codes 12 and 18 (and 22 or 23, but that doesn't even exist on FC, wtf?!), those are the TPSes. Which in turn means the plug is bad, which means I just need to find a random plug and start soldering it on, and plug together and gogogo!

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

The tps sensor are 20 some odd years old. The contacts inside the sensor themselves are probably corroded. You can ohm them out to check for deadspots in the sensor. How can the tps plug be bad though, unless it was already fragile to begin with.

jimmydanny

Might be that the cables are bag from moving around exactly where the connector is. There was no problems with the Ohm, the only thing I had problems with was the plug to the both.

And why would both go at the same time? The common thing there is the plug

jimmydanny

New plug, only one error code left, 11: intake temp sensor (intake elbow). How nice ain't that. Does the friggin car start? No

jimmydanny

Ah, was flooded. Towed the car for 1/4 mile in second gear, got out all the gas and she started!