Snaple07

iTrader: (17)

Maxima 927 castor 2 cycle oil.

In the midwest (Sioux Falls SD) I can get 64oz of this stuff for $36.99

- Is there a better/inexpensive alternative E85 premix?

I run 1oz per gallon of E85, OMP blocked and deleted.

I check my spark plugs every 2 weeks (I am very **** about this, because I spent 5 years building this ride before finally being able to drive it for the first time) and have noticed quite a bit of carbon built up on the spark plugs themselves. I take a brass brush and some mineral spirits to the plugs and scrub away till I see shiny metal and then grab some anti-seize for the threads and Di-electric grease for the terminal, then back in it goes. Never had my plugs fail on me. From my understanding of the fuel E85 has 33% less energy content than 100% gasoline, so during the tuning of the fuel map, extra fuel is being injected to compensate.

This would also mean that more premix is being injected right? Would 1 oz for every gallon of E85 be too much or just fine?

Since my spark plugs are in that condition, should I expect my combustion chamber (rotor/apex seals/housing) to be in a similar state of carbon scaling? Is that to be expected...


Thanks,


MK

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I run with 50% Whiskey and 50% Cola ..and my Wife sounds better...

rxmiles

iTrader: (11)

Can the OMP be modified to pump premix out of a remote reservoir instead of motor oil?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

It can. But then you are still not getting the benefit of premix.

You would be relying on a pump/metering device that you cannot directly control and that could be working at much less than 100% of spec.

You would be relying on lines that may be old and ready to break, or may be partially clogged.

You would be replying on injectors which may be internally clogged or may have bad check valves in them reducing or stopping flow.

You would be relying on drilled injection holes in the rotor housings that may be clogged with carbon. It is OFTEN overlooked during DIY rebuilds (or even mazda remans etc.) that these holes do clog up with carbon so that NO oil can get through. I always drill the holes back out to the correct size with a tiny bit, and you would be surprised exactly how much crap is stuck in them and how hard it is to clean them out.

Finally you are relying in stationary injection points which may not be ideal, and certainly do not evenly distribute the oil across all the surfaces and seals in the engine. In the FC you have one in the center of each rotor housing, but it does not reach out to the edges of the seals and housings. Then you have one in each primary intake runner, presumably to help with the intermediate iron walls, corner seals and side seals. But what about the secondary runners, front and rear iron faces and seals on those rotor sides? There is nothing there. So of course you are going to get uneven lubrication using the stock OMP system.

That system is a compromise at best. You can doctor it all you want but it will never be as good as premix sprayed in with fuel evenly via all 4 intake ports, increasing and decreasing quickly and appropriately with rpm and throttle/load, being sprayed in via a fine mist to evenly coat as many surfaces and seals as is possible, and directly user controllable based on the conditions they plan to run the car in during the coming tank of fuel. You can buy a gallon jug at walmart for 13 bucks which will last 10+ tank fulls, thus it's cost is less than $2 per tank. It requires no more than 1-2 minutes per tank full to execute. IT is so elegant it's stupid, and yet people resist it so much.

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

my omp quit working a few years ago (i check my oil every time i drive it and this one time it did not use any. i thought, this is not good). so i have been running 1.5 oz per gallon and 2 oz per gal when i autox it.

this Nissan sounds funny

Superduty as in Ford pickup truck?